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Misfireing, Throwing Codes, HELP

This is a discussion on Misfireing, Throwing Codes, HELP within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok, so to start im getting the P0300 code.. "random misfire" well that doesn't help, and then i got P1153, ...

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    - STOCK ish - Sarge91's Avatar
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    Misfireing, Throwing Codes, HELP

    Ok, so to start im getting the P0300 code.. "random misfire" well that doesn't help, and then i got P1153, and after research, it seems that is when the 02 sensor "bank 2" is slow at switching from lean to rich.

    Now here is the story of the problem.

    I can start the car in the morning, "cold start" and it will not misfire, it will run fine. But lets say i turn it off after its warmed up and let it sit for 4 hours or less, i will crank it, and after about 20 secs it will start to misfire at ideal. I will have to rev it to about 3k for it to stop, and then i start moving, and i would say around 2300 rpm it will start back, just misfires like crazy, no power.. Once again i have to throttle it some for it to stop. Then about 1 min doing that, it will no do it again until i re crank it warm.. when it misfires, the SES light blinks for a bit, and then goes off, so it not storing any usefull codes besides the p0300.. So i have NO idea what it could be.. i checked the grounds. The o2's that are in it now are about 30k miles old. I have a 2002 Camaio SS, LT headers, Cutout, 3000 stall. There are new Spark plugs in, about 1k old. I just ordered new plug wires "needed to anyways" and i think i may have to get new o2's.. but i dont have a code saying there bad yet. I cant get a shop or a buddy to see whats going on bc its only does it when it wants, when its warm, but that only 50% of the time. So how can a slow switching o2 make it misfire under warm cranks this bad? Can anyone help? Thank you for reading my post.
    Last edited by Sarge91; 12-10-2009 at 06:23 PM.
    2002 Camaro SS A4 - SLP# 2951 l MS4 l LT's w/ORY l F.A.S.T 78 & TB l Borla l Cutout l CME l TCI 3500 l 3.23's l !emissions l !sway

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    Member Goldcuffs's Avatar
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    I think you may have 2 separate issues. Just because it's not storing a code doesn't mean a shop with an ounce of diagnostic skills can't figure it out. GM was nice enough to engineer the computer to store misfire data. So as long as it's consistent enough for it to happen at the shop or you did not reset computer memory you will be fine. The only way you read misfire data is with a scanner. (A good one)

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    - STOCK ish - Sarge91's Avatar
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    Ive tried a scanner, all it stores is the 2 codes listed. P0300 and P1153. I found a good o2 i never used and going to swap it.

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    I was thinking either bad gas or a fuel delivery problem(pump, etc.) The nice thing about these cars is that they are sequentially fuel injected and have individual coils. So if you had a misfire caused by a bad coil, wire, plug, or injector, you would get a code for that cylinder. Sometimes I will put a fuel pressure gauge on a vehicle and tape the gauge to the windshield so I can watch it while the car is acting up. Maybe that will point to something.

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    Member 2000redcamaro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge91 View Post
    Ok, so to start im getting the P0300 code.. "random misfire" well that doesn't help, and then i got P1153, and after research, it seems that is when the 02 sensor "bank 2" is slow at switching from lean to rich.

    Now here is the story of the problem.

    I can start the car in the morning, "cold start" and it will not misfire, it will run fine. But lets say i turn it off after its warmed up and let it sit for 4 hours or less, i will crank it, and after about 20 secs it will start to misfire at ideal. I will have to rev it to about 3k for it to stop, and then i start moving, and i would say around 2300 rpm it will start back, just misfires like crazy, no power.. Once again i have to throttle it some for it to stop. Then about 1 min doing that, it will no do it again until i re crank it warm.. when it misfires, the SES light blinks for a bit, and then goes off, so it not storing any usefull codes besides the p0300.. So i have NO idea what it could be.. i checked the grounds. The o2's that are in it now are about 30k miles old. I have a 2002 Camaio SS, LT headers, Cutout, 3000 stall. There are new Spark plugs in, about 1k old. I just ordered new plug wires "needed to anyways" and i think i may have to get new o2's.. but i dont have a code saying there bad yet. I cant get a shop or a buddy to see whats going on bc its only does it when it wants, when its warm, but that only 50% of the time. So how can a slow switching o2 make it misfire under warm cranks this bad? Can anyone help? Thank you for reading my post.
    im having the same issues but the check engine light is not on

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    Well my SES light doesn't stay on either,and also i misfired this morning at work and scanned it, got p0153.. i looked somewhere, and they said it was a intake valve spring that broke.. but if i had a broke spring, would it do it all the time, and not stop when warm, like in my case? Cause some ppl say it o2 related

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    Anyone have a suggestion?

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    had a problem like yours, bad o2 sensor it was reporting a lean condition and the pcm was enriching the mixture so much it would misfire.If the spring broke it would not be a random misfire.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge91 View Post
    Anyone have a suggestion?
    Im betting after you replace that o2 sensor your problem will be gone.

    Replace it, see what that does for you.

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    I swapped em already with the 2 ones i didnt use when i added lt headers, and i know these work bc they havnt been touched since the stock crap came off.

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    Awaiting Activation jsremmos's Avatar
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    Well I just had this same problem also and for the life of me I couldnt figure it out. I tried everything. This is what I tried
    Reset the crank pos sensor
    reset my pcm
    checked all plugs and wires( IMPORTANT )
    Check o2s
    checked coils
    clean and inspect TB and sensor ( I just unplugged it and it still ran like crap so I knew it wasnt the sensor )
    it could have been any of these
    and finaly flipped out and called one of my tig welders I have working for me and he brought his HPtuner over and figured out that the freakin big connection (cant remember the name) that powers all the coils on the drivers side was corroded because water was getting into them. My #7 WASNT EVEN FIRING because of this. What kind of shit is that so check those and just clean them while you are in there
    Aslo check your pcm conections for corrosion, and your harmonic balancer too, if none of this fixes it push the damn thing of a cliff LOL

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    Quote Originally Posted by Goldcuffs View Post
    The only way you read misfire data is with a scanner. (A good one)
    You can keep trying the swaptronics method if you want but you should probably try to figure out what cylinders are misfiring first. If it's only 2 or 3 it's probably an ignition problem, if it's all of them it's probably a air/fuel problem.

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    My misfire was a loose #6 plug wire. Found it when I was changing the plugs.
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    i had misfire problems with bad plug wires. i was losing spark with it jumping out the side of the wire to my brake line tubing. also had a misfire problem due to cracking the back spark plug when installing. just my .02. good luck

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    I scanned it at school, cyc 6 was around 70 "0 means no misfire on this scanner" and just about every cyc had a misfire read. I checked all plugs that i could reach, they looked fine, they only have like 1k on them anyways. Wires.. well i made sure there where tight, none are rubbing the headers.. I couldn't get a good grip on cyc 6 wires to even pull it off.. so im stumped..

    If it was a fuel problem, which i think it is, how could i tell? Since it goes away after i rev it to 3k of so about 5 times in neutral it goes away... Fuel filter has around 15k on it. Fuel pressure regulator bad?

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    If possible, look at the engine while it is running at night or with the garage lights off. Wires that look good can still be arcing and will be visable.

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    ^Have, even did the spray bottle trick with that

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    Have you checked fuel pressure and volume yet?
    Are you saying that number 6 had the most misfires? I've had a handful of instances where only one cylinder was the culprit but it was throwing random misfire codes. For example, had a honda odyssey come in idling very rough but saw no power loss while driving and seemed smooth while revving. Seemed almost like the egr was stuck open. Ended up being a bad #1 coil but the scanner was showing misfires on multiple cylinders. Get a good spark tester on the #6 coil and make sure it can jump a big gap all the time. Having said that though, I have never seen a GM ls series coil go bad and we used to work for a van fleet running 03 and up 6.0 liters with 200k to 300k miles on their vans.
    Fuel related: Chevy Tahoe that idled fine and under no load ran great. On the test drive though it would totally lose power and throw lean codes. Checking fuel pressure pointed to a bad fuel pump.
    Anyway, sorry for getting lengthy, just want to help. Intermittent problems can make you pull your hair out.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge91 View Post
    I scanned it at school, cyc 6 was around 70 "0 means no misfire on this scanner" and just about every cyc had a misfire read. I checked all plugs that i could reach, they looked fine, they only have like 1k on them anyways. Wires.. well i made sure there where tight, none are rubbing the headers.. I couldn't get a good grip on cyc 6 wires to even pull it off.. so im stumped..

    If it was a fuel problem, which i think it is, how could i tell? Since it goes away after i rev it to 3k of so about 5 times in neutral it goes away... Fuel filter has around 15k on it. Fuel pressure regulator bad?
    I have been having the same problem on my 99 trans am and i had a shop look at my car for about 7 days straight and couldnt figure it out im not a 100 percent sure but i think its been all the ethenol that has been put in gas lately because i have been keeping track on where i get my gas and my car will only misfire exactly like yours with certain gas companys. keep in eye on where you get your gas and dont put a lot in your tank and see if this helps.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge91 View Post
    I scanned it at school, cyc 6 was around 70 "0 means no misfire on this scanner" and just about every cyc had a misfire read. I checked all plugs that i could reach, they looked fine, they only have like 1k on them anyways. Wires.. well i made sure there where tight, none are rubbing the headers.. I couldn't get a good grip on cyc 6 wires to even pull it off.. so im stumped..

    If it was a fuel problem, which i think it is, how could i tell? Since it goes away after i rev it to 3k of so about 5 times in neutral it goes away... Fuel filter has around 15k on it. Fuel pressure regulator bad?
    If you rev it a few times and it stops doing it you could have an injector bleeding down filling the cylinder with fuel. Does it only do it cold or can you turn it off after you clear it out and get it to do it again right away? I've never had a regulator cause a misfire. Not that it won't happen, but you would more than likely get a lean or rich code instead.

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