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Massive vacuum leak

This is a discussion on Massive vacuum leak within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; What's up peeps first post. I have a 99 z28, completely stock. It's been sitting for the last 2 years ...

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    Massive vacuum leak

    What's up peeps first post. I have a 99 z28, completely stock. It's been sitting for the last 2 years bc I started having problems, just had kids and just not the time to mess with it. The last few months I've been trying to work on it a bit. I had to replace the pcv valve and hoses, which was not fun in anyway. The car drives as if it has a blown head gasket, or a massive vacuum leak. When you give it gas it putts along, when you take off in it, it has no power. It was throwing a code, I removed the battery and cannot think of what it was as it was erased when I unhooked the battery. It had something to do with the air pump though, secoundary selanoid or something to that effect. Tomorrow I plan on hooking it back up and trying to get it to throw the code again. I don't have a clue what it is. It's not throwing any misfire codes, although it was smoking out of the exhaust a little bit I'm assuming that's bc it hasn't been started in a while. Sometimes when you start it and let it run for a little bit smoke comes out of the exhaust manififold. I plan on taking it to have a pressure test done on the catyalic converter this weekend just so I can mark that off the list. Also when sitting in park, it's slow to rev when giving it gas, and the exhaust has rattle or just a deeper unhealthy sound to it if that makes any sence. There's also a hose that runs under the car, and about halfway back past the cm where the transmission mount goes it's just dangling there, is it supposed to be connected to anything? I know it's a long post, and the car has a bunch of problems but I couldn't let myself sell it. Any help would be appreciated,

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    Welcome! The secondary air system consists of an electric pump, diverter valve, hoses and check valves. All it does is pump air into the exhaust manifolds for a short time after cold startup. It is designed to help bring the cats up to operating temperature quicker in order to reduce emissions. Most common failure is a crapped out check valve. As a general rule, a defect in this system does not affect how your car runs.

    Sounds a lot like you have a cat that has gone bad and it is choking your engine.

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    Was it running like it is when you parked it 2 years ago?

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    It was running rough, but no where near as rough as it is now. Thanks Jeff I'm planning on getting that tested hopefully this coming weekend

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    I'm actually trying to pry it out right now, but it's not wanting to move. Where the bolts were so rusty they all just snapped out, now I'm just trying to get the thing out

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    I would drain out all the old gas. Also do a fuel filter. Then drive it a bit and check for codes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJShepherd87 View Post
    I'm actually trying to pry it out right now, but it's not wanting to move. Where the bolts were so rusty they all just snapped out, now I'm just trying to get the thing out
    Prying on the catalytic converter?

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    Yeah it's not just wiggling out. It's just a really tight fit. I gave up on it for the night.

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    Did you disconnect the Y-pipe from the intermediate pipe, or is the rest of the exhaust still in place?

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    Quote Originally Posted by MrJShepherd87 View Post
    Yeah it's not just wiggling out. It's just a really tight fit. I gave up on it for the night.
    Apply heat with a torch and then tap the joint with a hammer gently to break the corrosion bond. Wait for a little cooling or use really thick gloves to try and break it loose. BTW, replacing the broken studs isn't all that bad but does take time and patience and a really good quality tap.

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    Quote Originally Posted by sjgreen6 View Post
    Apply heat with a torch and then tap the joint with a hammer gently to break the corrosion bond. Wait for a little cooling or use really thick gloves to try and break it loose. BTW, replacing the broken studs isn't all that bad but does take time and patience and a really good quality tap.
    or makes a great time to go with Long Tube Headers

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    or makes a great time to go with Long Tube Headers
    Do the engine and tranny mounts when you do you headers/y pipe, you'll thank me later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Whamhammer View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    or makes a great time to go with Long Tube Headers
    Do the engine and tranny mounts when you do you headers/y pipe, you'll thank me later.
    This

    Did my engine mounts but the tranny mount still moved enough and caused rattle that I replaced that shortly after.
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