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LS1 trouble

This is a discussion on LS1 trouble within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Ok, so I recently bought a 2002 Trans Am WS6 with a automatic transmission, however I am having engine troubles ...

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up LS1 trouble

    Ok, so I recently bought a 2002 Trans Am WS6 with a automatic transmission, however I am having engine troubles right now.

    The engine is a rebuilt LS1 with less then 500 miles on it. This doesnt happen all the time, but, when it does here's what happens:

    Whenever I press the brakes and hold them for a period of time (such as at a red light) my oil pressure drops almost to 0. However, if I hold the brakes and put the transmission in Neutral or Park, it doesn't happen. This happens more often then the rest of my problems. Thinking it could have been the alternator, I had it tested at Auto zone and O'Riely's. they hooked up a multimeter and all electronic readings are green and good HOWEVER, there was one reading for the engine itself: It read at a 10.3 and when they pulled the accelerator wire the numbers stayed the same. When they let go, the numbers dropped to about 4.1 or 3.9 then slowly climbed up.

    Sometimes when I turn the engine on after it's had a few hours to cool off, my oil pressure jumps well above 40 PSI whenever I accelerate and my Volt meter jumps above the 13 mark. If i run it for a while, turn the car off and turn it back on, the gauges read normal.

    When I turn the wheel in either direction the engine will stall on me regardless of speed, extremely dangerous on the I-5 here in Cali.

    My check engine light comes on, however, whenever a diagnostics test is hooked up, there's no error codes.

    Note: I do have a 3 year / 30k mile warranty on the engine but the company wont take me in unless I know exactly what the problem is / problems are, they don't want to waist their time searching. Also, I took it to Pep Boys where they did the diagnostics test (since Cali made it illegal for places like O'Riely's and Autozone to do them) and the man said he thought it was a vacuum leak but honestly, i really don't know much about this engine.

    Any and all help will be much appreciated. Thank you to all who give advice.

  2. #2
    Member speedyWS6's Avatar
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    2002 WS6 TA

    Mmmm,

    Now i cannot imagine things are much different between you guys and us
    when it comes to warranties.. Why in gods name are they twitching when
    you have a fault as serious as stalling when turning?? Surely a HUGE safety issue?

    I would be throwing a fit right now as a warranty is a warranty and unless there is
    some irritating bit of small print they surely are obliged to "waste their time" and track
    the problems down? Has the engine company themselves hooked up a code reader, i
    wonder? Did this company sell you the car with the rebuilt motor or what exactly?

    Are they a "reputable" company, or a bit iffy??

    Just irritates the hell out of me when you hear about company's reneging on warranty
    agreements

    Trev....

  3. #3
    None Shall Pass Knight's Avatar
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    I would take the car to whoever did the work, tell them everything you stated here, and make them fix it under warranty. If they refuse, contact the BBB, and local media.

  4. #4
    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    Small claims court does not cost very much and you can get these people in front of a judge to explain the situation. You also have DMV on your side. Good Luck.
    My ride is a 2002 Camaro SS SLP #3296 with 30k, LTH, 3" Y, CME, Frost tune, K&N, ported TB, Blackwing lid, Bellows, MSD, Denso Iridium, and 85mm MAF, Bilsteins, Eibach springs, SLP strut brace, Adj. Panhard, TA Girdle, UMI, Pro 5.0, Nitto NT555
    My wife has a 2004 GTO with the rare SAP, 18" wheels, K&N Cold Air System, MSD, Ported TB, Frost tune, Denso Iridium, Flowmaster cat-back, 3200 Yank, 75k

  5. #5
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    One big questions before below.

    Do you still have the break in oil? When an engine is rebuilt a break in oil is used for the first 500 miles. After that period it's drained and then replaced with dyno or synthetic oil.



    I wrote this prior to above question

    Hmm....

    I'm with Walt. If I just had a rebuilt motor that is under warranty and had problems I'd be all over them. You paid to have the work done right and complete, a warranty is like an insurance policy for you. Also them getting you to do their job for them shows me how professional they are. If I went to a shop and they told me that I'd never do any business with them ever. That tells me they are just part swappers not mechanics. It's ok for them to ask "what's the problem?" and a few follow up questions, but for them to say we won't trouble shoot for you that's just

    They hum and holler and drag their ass but hold them to it.




    Now for some quick trouble shooting ideas to help you figure it out.

    What's the oil pressure reading at idle and while in gear? We need a little more specifics. Now for your knowledge your oil pressure should read at start up around 55-60, after warm up around 40. Never should it drop to zero. If it does shut the car off quickly. LOW OIL PRESSURE = BLOWN MOTOR, spun bearing, etc....

    With you saying it's a rebuild makes me wonder if they correctly installed the oil pump. If the o ring is not seated properly it will give bad pressure readings and not properly oil the block. I also wonder did they reused the old oil pump or install a new one.


    I don't think it's this but you asked so:

    Vacuum leak checks - there are several spots to check. While at idle use a can carb cleaner with the red straw and with quick short spray around the intake, throttle body, and the pcv. If you have one it will surge slightly.





    I hope this helps you. I really stress to you to be firm and have these guys honor the warranty and do their job.

  6. #6
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    SMWS6TA- Start up oil pressure is about 55-60 but the problem is it STAYS at 55-60 until I turn the car off. As for the oil pressure reaching zero it has never touched the 0 marker, itll hover above it, almost to the "caution" line then i'll start hearing a very low "thunk" noise..not extremely loud but if you listen close enough you can definitely hear it. As for the oil pump I honestly have no idea. If i was home where I could trust the mechanics I would tell em to look it over and such.

    As for the warranty, I don't trust hardly any of the mechanics out here to begin with. I'm not a native of Cali and I live by San Diego and LA so in all honesty, all the mechanics out here are sketchy to me. I'm going to be calling them and PROMISING (not threatening ) that there will be Hell to pay if they dont take in my car.

  7. #7
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    And for the break-in oil I'm not too sure. Its due for an oil change this weekend so I'll be sure that they use the synthetic oil

  8. #8
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    if it's a reputable company you should have no problem taking it in under warranty. They did the work, they did the work wrong, so they should be the people to figure out what the issue is. It could be an incorrect rebuild or a pinched harness.....it could be a lot of the things.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for the replies gentlemen. I'm going to take it in this weekend, When I find out what the problem is I'll be sure to post it on here.

    Thanks again and Semper Fi

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