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LS1 Stall at 210 degrees

This is a discussion on LS1 Stall at 210 degrees within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi gang this is my first time on this site I have a 2002 z28 last week it stalled out ...

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    LS1 Stall at 210 degrees

    Hi gang this is my first time on this site
    I have a 2002 z28 last week it stalled out on me. now every time i get it up to running temp. it sputters once then just dies. no lights come on but the check gauges light because the tac is at 0. When my friend put his code scanner on it the only thing that came up was an o2 sensor. He told me that was causing the car to shut off. I went to my local NAPA and they told me the 02 sensor could not cause it and it sounded like a crank shaft position sensor. I would think that that would throw a code. the car will not start until the temp is dropped below 210. does any one have any suggestions? this is my daily driver and it makes it hard to get to work

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Did the guy at NAPA scan it as well? Change the faulty O2 and see what happens. Was the code for the oxygen sensor heater circuit?


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    yea the code was for the heater circuit and the guy at Napa did not scan the car

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Faulty O2 will not prevent the car from starting, it will run like shit, but still will start.

    Look over some of these...
    MAF -
    Buy some MAF cleaner, you can remove it or leave it on the car but you need to be able to access the front of the maf, next spray it down pretty good. let it dry on it's own, DO NOT TOUCH THE WIRE.

    IAC -
    Next pull the IAC sensor located on the drivers side of the throttle body. Check to see if this is clogged up with oil residue , carefully remove the big stuff, you can use carb cleaner to finish off the rest of the residue, wipe off with a paper towel or rag. The (for lack of an accurate description) piece that goes inside the TB should be able to move in & out. If it doesn't you may need to replace it you can't clean it up.

    TB -
    Now open the blade on the TB, how black is it? You can remove it and clean it up, the air galley for the IAC will likely be full of crap.

    Engine Temp Sensor -
    located on the drivers side of the block next to the headers, just behind the power steering pump reservoir. See if it is damaged. Can happen during spark plug change, header install, or just plainly goes bad. If it gives a bad reading, the PCM should shut down the motor.

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    thanks i will try that now

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    hey guys i tried as suggested above cleaned a load of crap off of IAC cleaned the maf. and the same problem still exist but i have some new info. i found wile the car will not start after stalling if i unplug the maf sensor the car will fire idle for a few seconds then turn off could this mean the maf went bad?

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    If you have the code could you please post it. Certain codes have multiple meanings.


    It should still start if you disconnect the MAF, the PCM will default to air density tune. Won't run very well but it will run.

    Do you know another F-body owner? If you're on good terms ask to swap their MAF over and see if it does anything for you.



    One more thing to add did you check the engine temp sensor? How'd it look? Try disconnecting it and see if it will start again. Does the coolant hoses feel hot, I mean real hot? It could also be a bad water thermostat not opening and retaining the coolant in the block and not cooling it off.

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    the only time I've ever personally ran into this it was a bad engine coolant sensor. When the car went to closed loop it basically flooded itself out.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Keep us posted.

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    ok i changed out the engine temp sensor and the car ran great i went to work about 14 miles the car sat for 8 hours then drove to my girlfriends i rest my trip odomitor each time at 20 miles on the nose it popped quite loud a few times almost as if it was running out of spark then shut off still no check engine light my voltage was up so i know im not loosing power but it really has me stumped now. Is there an ignition modual like on a distributor run engine that could cause my coils to loose power? in a few hours im going to see my old auto teacher and get his opinion. also the code from earlier was an old code that was never cleared out.

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    Hey guys still no solution it is defiantly heat related at 210 on the button it stalls with borrowed MAF sensor it still dies out still no codes i bought a hanes manual today and i might have found a possible solution it says it will not spark if the crank position sensor went. im wondering if the issue is once the engine gets up to temp the crank position sensor fails any ideas?

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