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LS1 alternator problems

This is a discussion on LS1 alternator problems within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Red wire on voltage regulator should go on computer c2 ,terminal 15. Book says it is a output . check ...

  1. #21
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    biue
    1998 firebird

    Red wire on voltage regulator should go on computer c2 ,terminal 15. Book says it is a output . check voltage with voltmeter to good ground on this terminal , my be wired wrong.

  2. #22
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    Here a diagnostic chart for a 99 LS1 Camaro. It of course says the L terminal should have 10 or more volts so it looks like yours is ok?
    So now I'm thinking, is your alternator getting enough cooling air flow through it? I remember my alternator has a cooling duct attached to it. Maybe your swap has that air flow blocked?

    Edit...hmm that might explain why you are going through alts fast, but now I remember you are having a high voltage problem also...

  3. #23
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    1987 camaro

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Here a diagnostic chart for a 99 LS1 Camaro. It of course says the L terminal should have 10 or more volts so it looks like yours is ok?
    So now I'm thinking, is your alternator getting enough cooling air flow through it? I remember my alternator has a cooling duct attached to it. Maybe your swap has that air flow blocked?

    Edit...hmm that might explain why you are going through alts fast, but now I remember you are having a high voltage problem also...
    i tested the voltage at the battery with it running and i get 14.4v which is normal but the volt gauge on the dash reads 16-17v which is weird

  4. #24
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    1999 Formula WS6 M6-sold
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    Well good. I think we solved the problem...maybe. Your alt wiring and function are normal. But you are going through alternators fast. My best guess is lack of cooling air flow.

  5. #25
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    1987 camaro

    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Well good. I think we solved the problem...maybe. Your alt wiring and function are normal. But you are going through alternators fast. My best guess is lack of cooling air flow.
    hmmm it does get to hot to touch after running for a while. how whould i go about cooling it better? its very open around it and it does have the plastic duct on the back of it. i saw on ls1tech someone having the same problem i have but his car is a 4th gen and not swapped. he used a 145 amp truck alt from a 5.3

  6. #26
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    1998 firebird

    shmack, I spent all day going through wiring schamics and with no help. I am having brain farts now!! My 1998 ls1 sends a 470 ohm resistance in the red wire straight to the pcm. the alt L comes from another term on the pcm to the alt. Your 1999 takes the 470 ohm red wire and goes straight to the L term of the regulator. Electronics , ain't they fun#@!&^##.Please post what and if you find.

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterman74 View Post
    shmack, I spent all day going through wiring schamics and with no help. I am having brain farts now!! My 1998 ls1 sends a 470 ohm resistance in the red wire straight to the pcm. the alt L comes from another term on the pcm to the alt. Your 1999 takes the 470 ohm red wire and goes straight to the L term of the regulator. Electronics , ain't they fun#@!&^##.Please post what and if you find.
    are you burning up alts too?

  8. #28
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    No , I am puting a 1998 ls1 in a 1968 camaro. I am a ASE certified General master mechanic and a wiring nut. The car is a total basket case right now ,but who knows mabee in a few years I will be able to drive it. it is my money pit if you know what i mean. Every car nut has to have one.... I love this sight, if I get stumped on a problem, i can post it and mabee someone can chase my brain fart away.Also mabee I can also help some one else.Let us know if temature was your problem with your alternator.
    Last edited by waterman74; 05-01-2011 at 04:51 AM.

  9. #29
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by waterman74 View Post
    No , I am puting a 1998 ls1 in a 1968 camaro. I am a ASE certified General master mechanic and a wiring nut. The car is a total basket case right now ,but who knows mabee in a few years I will be able to drive it. it is my money pit if you know what i mean. Every car nut has to have one.... I love this sight, if I get stumped on a problem, i can post it and mabee someone can chase my brain fart away.Also mabee I can also help some one else.Let us know if temature was your problem with your alternator.
    yeah those 98 f-body LS1s are oddballs. You'll find about 10,000 differences between the 98s and the 99-2002s. Apparently the alternator wiring can be added to the list.
    The alternator wiring is different for 98 compared to the 99.

  10. #30
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    1998 Trans Am

    The starter can still have a drag or bad ground that can cause too much voltage draw. It was just a suggestion... There are only three major components to the starting and charging systems.

  11. #31
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    the wiring all looks fine nice and tight, im going to try and figure out a way to cool it better so im open to suggestions. that or put a truck alt on it from a 5.3

  12. #32
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    how long are the alternators lasting? a few days, a few minutes? also are you using the OEM size wire from the alternator to the battery?

    The reason I mention about the wire is because like a year ago my alternator went bad. I replaced and checked the voltage at the battery, it was 13v. I pulled out of the driveway and when I got a chance I hit WOT and when the car shifted to 2nd the voltage dropped to like 8v. I pulled alternator and exchanged again. Same problem occured on WOT.

    I checked the wires to make sure they are not getting pinched when the car shifts and all the wires were clear of any area. I took the battery to get tested and it was good. I decided to replace the main wires since there is nothing between the alternator and the battery. I replaced the big 3 wires with a bigger ones (not by much). I peeled the insulation of the old wire and it wasn't corroded but it was very hard flex in some areas. After that I never had the problem again. My voltage went up to 14.2, which the car never done before.

    I remember when I studied electricity they mentioned how resistance causes high temperatures and other issues. The only conclusion i can think of was that when I was hitting WOT there was so much resistance in the wire that was burning the regulator or something in the alternator.

    I'm not saying this is your problem but if the alternator is going out quick and you never replaced the original wires maybe is worth changing.

  13. #33
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    i had aproblem with my wifes harley that was driving me nuts on the battery cable to the starter . ended up being a coroaded cable underneath the insulation unseen problem , changed cable , fixed problem. check the ohms of resistance in the wire find the resistance value of your wire .i think the size of positive wire @ starter and alternator is a#4.

  14. #34
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    i used all new 4 gauge wire for both positive and grounds when i did the swap a year ago. the wires cant be corroded because it has done this since it was in the 99 camaro it came out of. could the cluster be causing the issue?

  15. #35
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shmack2004 View Post
    i used all new 4 gauge wire for both positive and grounds when i did the swap a year ago. the wires cant be corroded because it has done this since it was in the 99 camaro it came out of. could the cluster be causing the issue?
    I see, i'm just saying is something to look at. Mine wasn't corroded at all when i removed the insulation but it was causing issues. keep us posted.

  16. #36
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    i dont know what to tell you ,you might look at your gauge cluster, but you might be grasping at straws. i changed mine to a 145 amp truck alternater for the increased size of diodes when you high rev these motors it frys them so ive read. my amp gauge was jumping all over the place and the increased size fixed it so far on my application. i wish you luck.let us know. if you go for the larger alternator get an ac-delco costs more but you get what you pay for.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldmano2z View Post
    i dont know what to tell you ,you might look at your gauge cluster, but you might be grasping at straws. i changed mine to a 145 amp truck alternater for the increased size of diodes when you high rev these motors it frys them so ive read. my amp gauge was jumping all over the place and the increased size fixed it so far on my application. i wish you luck.let us know. if you go for the larger alternator get an ac-delco costs more but you get what you pay for.
    i do go into the higher rpms alot that might have something to do with it.
    Last edited by Shmack2004; 05-03-2011 at 11:55 PM.

  18. #38
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    found the fix to my issue. i went and got a DR44G alternator off a 2006 silverado. Its the heavy duty truck alt with the bigger case and heavy duty internals. it fits fine and charges great. it had a 2 wire plug instead of the 4 wire plug i had. all i had to do to make it work was cut the 4 wire plug off and solder the brown wire on the 2 wire plug to the red wire on my harness. the gray wire is unused. i would recommend this to anyone having alt issues in an fbody.

  19. #39
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shmack2004 View Post
    found the fix to my issue. i went and got a DR44G alternator off a 2006 silverado. Its the heavy duty truck alt with the bigger case and heavy duty internals. it fits fine and charges great. it had a 2 wire plug instead of the 4 wire plug i had. all i had to do to make it work was cut the 4 wire plug off and solder the brown wire on the 2 wire plug to the red wire on my harness. the gray wire is unused. i would recommend this to anyone having alt issues in an fbody.
    nice work and you say is a direct fit, right? Ssingle did a write up on how an AD244 fit in our vehicles as well.

  20. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    nice work and you say is a direct fit, right? Ssingle did a write up on how an AD244 fit in our vehicles as well.
    it fits just like the AD244, same case i believe. all you have to change is the connector. i also had to shave the bottom of the case some fo my car it was barely hitting the pitman arm but it wasnt much.

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