LS1 (2002) spark plug change tips

**cold_surfer** · 01-04-2009, 08:43 PM

Just did the 100K plug change (at 87K). Success. Here are some tips (transam 2002 ls1 with SLP upper tower brace installed (did not need to remove it).

1. PBBlaster soaked each plug a week before, 4 hours before, and during each plug removal. no issues of tight plugs or broken threads.
2. aluminum anti-seaze coated around threads of each new plug. dielectric grease around each insulator base (about where the boot-wire ends). smear a little alum-anti-seez on the metal base of the plug - where the socket touches...

3. went with NGK TR55. stock set gap. these are the V-Power plugs, copper core. plan to run them 25-30K.
4. changed wires to crane-cams 8mm low impedence wires.

tools: micro click 3/8" swivel-handle ratchet, 1", 3", 6" extensions. two regular 5/8" spark plug sockets (did NOT need the $30 special socket). 10MM socket on the 1/4" drive with flex-joint and 6" extension. needle-nosed (small) vise grip (key tool!!)

steps:
1. remove the exhaust manifold air tubes from both drivers and passenger sides. 10MM socket setup for this. take a needle-nosed (small) vise grip snf slotted screw driver -- push the quick-connector clamps sideways until the zip-tie type threads slide apart, remove the clamps, disconnect the hose, and remove the air-breather tubes from the car.

2. I did NOT need to remove the passenger side coil pack from the valve cover. It would probably help some but I didn't need to remove mine.

3. using the needle-nosed vise grip, lock on the end of the plug wire and rotate the plug wire end, then pull the socket and metal tube cover off each spark plug. This will destroy the old wires so have a complete new set ready to install. the metal covers "pull" off the ends and can be re-installed onto the new wires.

I was able to reach ALL the passenger plugs from the top-front of the engine. 1/16th turn after tight. best to use a 1/4" drive torque wrench. I used 2 sockets - one already loaded with the new plug and as soon as I removed the old one I swapped in the new plug to keep the plug angle and hole location fresh in mind. plugs were about 3 minutes each this way -- including that rear plug.

when installing the wires, ensure the coil and spark plug ends are pushed on until you hear a "CLICK".

The process does a brutal job to your forearms, but you save $300+ in shop fees.

Good luck. and keep the PB Blaster flowing into the plug area while lossening up the plugs...

**jsteele90** · 01-04-2009, 09:00 PM

2 clicks on the coil . 1 on the plug!

**cold_surfer** · 01-05-2009, 06:49 AM

what if there was only 1 click? is that true with crane cam 8mm wires too?

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-10-2010, 12:21 PM

There still could of been two clicks, they just happened simultaneously, so they sounded as one.

**JayTA98** · 04-12-2010, 02:26 PM

I had bad luck with the NGK TR55's. I installed them to the gap that was recommended and got a bad idle. I end up changing them back to stock plugs.

I just do daily driving but my car is coming close to 100k. SHould I stick with stocks? Or get the stock iridium plugs? not too many mods just ls6 intake basic tune and borla exhaust on my 98 TA.

**sjsingle1** · 04-12-2010, 04:09 PM

num 8 is best reached from the bottom....IMO

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-13-2010, 06:11 AM

Originally Posted by sjsingle1

num 8 is best reached from the bottom....IMO

That's forsure. Number 8 from the bottom is the easiest way. Although I still apparently didn't get it tight enough. Just the other day that plug came loose a week or so after the plugs and wires were change. I just screwed it back tight with my hand and cranked it as much as possible with a wrench (with the little room there is).

**silverWS6** · 04-13-2010, 09:56 AM

I still think it makes #8 super easy if you remove the coils and valve cover, i mean removing the coils and valve cover is like a 5 min job at the most and really opens things up on the passenger side

**sjsingle1** · 04-14-2010, 12:03 AM

removing the coils on the pass side was a P I T A......i will pass

**Camaro69Mac** · 04-25-2010, 08:18 AM

Just put in the NGK's yesterday. Every auto parts store i went to didnt have the 55's only the ngk tr5's i was trying to find out the difference and only thing i found out was the gaps are different? Is there any other difference? Anyways i did all the plugs from the top i couldnt get it from under the car i dont see how others could my hands couldnt fit there. Once the pass coil packs were off it was easier to get to number 8. But still my forearms and wrists are ruined!!!! That last bolt on the pass coil is something else alot of yelling haha. But I am very pleased with the ngk's so far. I noticed a difference. My car has 102k and the plugs were never done. Glad thats over next is headers in a few months, cant wait!!!!

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-26-2010, 07:30 AM

Originally Posted by Camaro69Mac

Just put in the NGK's yesterday. Every auto parts store i went to didnt have the 55's only the ngk tr5's i was trying to find out the difference and only thing i found out was the gaps are different? Is there any other difference? Anyways i did all the plugs from the top i couldnt get it from under the car i dont see how others could my hands couldnt fit there. Once the pass coil packs were off it was easier to get to number 8. But still my forearms and wrists are ruined!!!! That last bolt on the pass coil is something else alot of yelling haha. But I am very pleased with the ngk's so far. I noticed a difference. My car has 102k and the plugs were never done. Glad thats over next is headers in a few months, cant wait!!!!

Don't know the difference between TR55's and TR5's...I didn't even know there were TR5's.

Only reason it made it easier to get #8 from below was because of the LT headers. You're able to see the hole and angle plain as day. That was the problem I was having from up top. And BOY to do I know about that last bolt on the coil rack. I didn't take it off all the way. I just loosened it and swung them out of the way. But my god does that weatherstripping plastic stuff really get ya. I thought one of them was half way in my arm while I slowly cranked to loosen it. Looked like I had gotten in a fight with a sewer rat after I was done.

**allbaugh_04** · 04-26-2010, 08:35 AM

When I did my cam swap I changed plugs.

Just remove the coil packs and valve covers if needed and it makes it a breeze.

After removing the plugs. I replaced them with TR55s with stock gap and applied anti-seeze. Buy the bottle, it will save you money in the long run.

It took me, maybe a half hour to apply the anti-seeze and replace all the plugs.

**rbob93** · 04-26-2010, 08:53 AM

Originally Posted by PhantomHaZe

And BOY to do I know about that last bolt on the coil rack. I didn't take it off all the way. I just loosened it and swung them out of the way.

Easiest for me.....I leave it loose & never have to fight it

**silverWS6** · 04-26-2010, 10:23 AM

On the 02 i only put on like 2 bolts back on the coils, i know this cant be done on 98 or 99 cause the coils are separated and not held together by a brace thing

so its harder to do plugs on my 98 than on the 02 but after so many times its a breeze for me now (don't mean to sound cocky or anything)

**rkvette** · 04-26-2010, 12:38 PM

i have heard to stay, with stock plugs.!!. no power gain... our 2006 monte carlo ss v8, has near 100,000 miles not even thinking, about changing plugs ... i also hear from corvette people ,why try to fix [change plugs] something, thats not broke !! rkvette

**PhantomHaZe** · 04-27-2010, 05:13 AM

Originally Posted by rkvette

i have heard to stay, with stock plugs.!!. no power gain... our 2006 monte carlo ss v8, has near 100,000 miles not even thinking, about changing plugs ... i also hear from corvette people ,why try to fix [change plugs] something, thats not broke !! rkvette

Well, they might not be "broke", but they will definitely be worn from having a current passed through them for over 100k miles. Thus, cutting down the efficiency and power of your engine. Staying with same brand stock plugs on your change is not a problem but staying with your original stock plugs and performing no change is. Not saying you need to hurry out right now and change them. I'm sure the car still runs fine. But it's definitely a good idea to do it relatively soon. Especially, if you want to keep the performance of the engine like it was brand new. You'll notice a difference. Smoother idle and operation. Some MSD superconductor wires will be an improvement over stock and cut down on the resistance your stock wires had.

**JayTA98** · 04-27-2010, 08:40 AM

okay so I see alot of you use the stock gap of the tr55's. I will give them a try again. How long do they last? I do mostly DD and little street racing. Also do I just order them for my car or just ask NGK TR55's? I don't remember is been a while.

**allbaugh_04** · 04-27-2010, 01:29 PM

Just ask for NGK TR55s, they have them at advance for sure. That's where I got mine.

**JayTA98** · 04-27-2010, 01:40 PM

Thanks I'll check with them tomorrow. Any ideas how often we need to change the TR55's?

**allbaugh_04** · 04-27-2010, 02:29 PM

I'd say once a year beings they are so cheap, but I will probably do mine once every two years and even then it's overkill.

I usually don't say do a search, but you can try that.

Pretty sure a spark plug can run 50k no problem, but there is nothing wrong with changing them for the price they run.