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LQ9 Build.....Newbie

This is a discussion on LQ9 Build.....Newbie within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Sand Rail Project 2014 Got the Frame. Sand Limo Got a Junk Yard Motor 2006 Denali Truck LQ9. I haven't ...

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    LQ9 Build.....Newbie

    Sand Rail Project 2014

    Got the Frame. Sand Limo

    Got a Junk Yard Motor 2006 Denali Truck LQ9.

    I haven't worked on LS type motors ever. Thirty years ago I was a Small Block Chevy guy. A lot has changed. All for the best as much as I can tell. Have several LS Motor Rebuild and Upgrade books.

    Just got the motor put on my engine stand and am going to start taking all the extraneous tranny lines and such that were still attached from the bone yard.

    I have many questions but will start with just one at first.

    I am going to keep this motor pretty much stock at first and focus on getting the Sand Rail built first.

    Since I do have the motor out and on a stand, I don't really know anything about the motor. I'm thinking about at least pulling the heads and pan just to see what kind of condition the motor is in.

    Any thoughts, Ideas, advise.

    Thanks....Rob

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I think I'm going to have to write a stick on this subject....


    Congrats and welcome. Sand Rails look like they are some serious fun.




    LQ blocks - They are great blocks, IMHO the best of both worlds when it comes to LS1 style and LS3 styles. You have serious options.

    Yours is a 58x reluctor wheel (important) meaning you need to have a wire harness and ecm that is 58x compatible. If you do find a 24x ecm & harness there is a a couple of options. Cheapest is swap reluctor wheels, next is a convertor box (not cheap). LQ blocks can easily be bored out and handle boost much more then aluminum blocks. Neg- heavy as hell. About 80-90 lbs just the block alone. Make sure you have grade 8 bolts on that stand.

    LQ9's have flat top pistons so your compression is in the mid 10's to 1

    Since you are using a sand rail some things are much easier for you in that you can set your engine anywhere so oil pan not really a problem.


    I highly recommend have an engine machine shop look the block over once you finish tear down. Mine had a hydrolock and all the cylinders where fine except #8, caused me to bore mine out. The LS cranks are pretty stout, unless you were looking at serious boost or stroker, no need to have it replaced. I would recommend having it balance with the rods and polished as well.

    Refresh bearing kits are not to expensive.


    Cam and heads that's a whole another discussion. Do you have a long or short block? Heads what #? 243's or 317's?
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 01-27-2014 at 02:05 PM.
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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Also in the Internal section there are a couple of us working on engine builds. You can see mine by clicking on my signature block.

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Welcome to the site Rob, being an LQ9 sounds like you got a great starting point for your rail. Scott pretty much covered most of it but i do want to chime in about the reluctor wheel. You may have a 24x reluctor wheel. If i recall correctly 2007 was the year that started the 58x, Best way to tell what style you have is by tearing into it.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    LQ9 Build.....Newbie

    if the crank sensor is black you have 24x, grey it's 58x







    Corrected the above info.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 02-01-2014 at 10:57 PM.

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    Thanks for all the replies I look forward to picking all of your brains about details about how to manage this motor.

    To start out....I am not sure I want to even open this motor up. I just found out today some details about the motor...ie it only has about 60K miles on it. Ideally, this stock motor will be perfect for getting the Sand Rail project started. What I was wondering about is ways I might check the motor without pulling heads/pans...etc. I guess a compression check might be in order. Not sure if I can do that manually or not without a starter to crank the engine. Can I get an accurate reading by manually turning over the engine?

    Just thinking that while I have the motor on an engine stand what's the best way to evaluate the motor without opening it up. Mind you, I don't mind opening it up if it's deemed wise to do so by some of you with experience.

    Also what the best way to get Engine Build details if I have the VIN#.

    I am away from home right now I got called away on a trip and won't be able to get back to the engine in earnest till mid February.

    I did get the ECM or PCM or ECU...(don't know the correct term) that came with the motor. As well as the wiring harness attached to the motor.

    The heads appear to be 317's.

    I do have grade 8 bolts holding the motor but I did notice that one of the bolt holes that you would normally bolt the bell housing to was not drilled and tapped, It's the one at approx the Two o'clock position looking directly from the back of the block.

    I haven't looked at the crank sensor yet...I am anxious to do so. Want to know if it's a 24x or 58x reluctor wheel. I will look at that at least on the 29th evening. I literally got the engine on the stand and had to leave. Haven't even drained the oil from the motor yet.

    Motor appears very clean. No apparent oil leaks.

    That's all for now. I'm sure I will have many questions later.

    Thanks again for the reponses.

    Rob
    Last edited by rstepp; 01-28-2014 at 06:09 PM.

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    Are you sure it'a not the other way around? Black 24x and grey 58x.

    Rob

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    Senior Member tatertot91's Avatar
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    Assuming thats the case, both my blocks had black for the 24x wheel

    Here is a pic thats shows both
    24x left, 58x right


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    Now I'm confused...LOL I did a little research and even though the motor is from a 2006 Sierra Denali Truck, the motor was manufactured in 2005.

    What are other hints....I guess dropping the pan would help.

    Just took off old motor mounts, and one of the exhaust manifolds. Pulled plugs from one side, all is nominal so far.

    Only limited time at home so I will continue the removing the wiring harness and other components so I can do a proper cleaning of the long block Later this month.

    Other than data within the PCM any other hints as to whether 24x vs. 58x reluctor wheel.

    I'm thinking pulling the pan. Any gotchas?

  10. #10
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Besides the crank sensor, the pistons flat = LQ9, dish LQ4


    I corrected the above post. Black - 24x, grey = 58x

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