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Low at idle

This is a discussion on Low at idle within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by cammed goat Maybe I'm wrong, but I am tempted to say you could have a bad/disconnected coolant ...

  1. #21
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Maybe I'm wrong, but I am tempted to say you could have a bad/disconnected coolant temp sensor. If it is, your PCM is probably pulling timing as it could be thinking the car is overheating.
    hmm interesting. Will the incorrect temp show up in the obd2 scanner? or it won't make a difference. The last time I checked the gauge was normal and it kinda matched the obd2 scanner reading. But what you mention makes sense.

  2. #22
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    If you have a scanner that can read in real time, it will show on the scanner.

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    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    ok i will check. i guess i can get the temp sensor. it shouldn't be too expensive. The IAC on the other hand is $120. I didn't change my spark plug wires last time i replaced the spark plugs. Im going to get them this week.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Jay I paid $56 at O'Reilly's for my IAC

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Sounds about right. The last time I bought an IAC, I paid around $45. That was a few years ago.

  6. #26
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    i guess autozone is trying to rip me off...

  7. #27
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Well...I was working for Sears Auto at the time and the parts store we dealt with gave me a discount.

  8. #28
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I ordered the IAC from rockauto. it was $58 shipped. Will see if it helps my situation. I checked today for vaccum leaks with carb cleaner around the engine and nothing.

  9. #29
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    IMO, you CANNOT go wrong with RockAuto. I bought an O2 sensor from them for around twenty-something dollars. Been working quite well.

  10. #30
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    update: i received the IAC yesterday. I installed it today and when I cranked the car the rpms were stuck at idle at 1200. I hit the gas pedal and it didn't change the idle. I then disconnected the battery for a minute. I reconnected it back and the idle went back to normal. It seems like the idle is better but i'm still testing it. I'm waiting for the car to relearn the idle after 100 miles. I still need to replace the spark plug wires.

  11. #31
    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Sounds like you're on the right track.


    extreme dimensions, driveshaft shop, harrop, hid(35watt/6k) lows, hurst, k&n, led fogs, maverick man, mishimoto, nitto, revshift, slp, stern st-1, smoked sidemarkers, whiteline poly radius rod bushings

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Glad to hear Jay.


    It didn't seem to take me that long for my idle to to level out.

  13. #33
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    I still kinda same the same issue but is alot better. I couldn't pull out the shaft in the IAC like in my old one so i guess it was time to replace it. I'm not sure if the spark plug wires could be part of the issue. I dont feel like spending $70 bucks in MSD wires for nothing. I guess I will keep driving it until it gets worst or maybe resolves. I just found out that I need new shocks, springs and strut mounts. I have to order them from rockauto. I also found out all my bolts related with calipers and caliper brackets were loose. I had clean them and put blue loctite in all of them. I had to do both sides. I don't want to loose another caliper bolt while driving. I have some play (minimal) at 12 and 6 at the right side hub. The sad part is the hub warranty expired last year

  14. #34
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Sounds like time to upgrade the springs and shocks.

    I also hate it too when stuff breaks just out of warranty

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    I decided to pull the TB and re clean everything inlcuding MAF. the blade was pretty clean and was moving freely. I used seafoam in the gas tank and in the brake booster hose. I changed the fuel filter too. It started really bad and it took a while for it to idle correctly. I drove the crap of it and at the end the idle seems alot better. I'm still testing it out. We did noticed on one point before this that the RPM were different from the gauge and the scanner. It was off by 200 rpms. It only happened once. We couldn't recreate the issue.

  16. #36
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    That's how mine reads. My RPM needle reads about 200 higher then what 3 different scanners show at 3 different times.

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    okay so i guess is normal on that part. I have been driving the car around and it feels alot better. Not sure if the seafoam helped or the fuel filter. I'm still testing it. I'm trying to remember the procedure to reset the TPS position. Maybe that can help.

  18. #38
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I think it's this...

    disconnect the tps
    turn ignition on but no start for 10-15 seconds
    turn off
    reconnect
    turn key on but no start for 10-15 seconds again
    turn off
    start motor


    It's been 6 months since I last did it and it's not something that is repetitive to be easy remembered.

  19. #39
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I think it's this...

    disconnect the tps
    turn ignition on but no start for 10-15 seconds
    turn off
    reconnect
    turn key on but no start for 10-15 seconds again
    turn off
    start motor


    It's been 6 months since I last did it and it's not something that is repetitive to be easy remembered.
    Thanks Scott.

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    Any updates?

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