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Looking at my first F body purchase.

This is a discussion on Looking at my first F body purchase. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by pajeff02 you will not be disappointed by anything with an LS in it, they are pretty darn ...

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    you will not be disappointed by anything with an LS in it, they are pretty darn reliable.

    Yea I already know how reliable they are and i've already pretty much decided on an LS after reading a bunch on this forum. I was never really too big into cars until recently but all throughout my life my dad has had mostly classic muscle cars,
    '66 Caprice with a 502,
    '39 Studebaker - 502,
    '68 Roadrunner - 440 6 pack,
    '40 Packard - 454,
    '69 Charger RT - 426 Hemi,
    '55 Chevy - 468 BBC,
    '48 Chevy Fleetline - LS1,
    '41 Cadillac but it was strictly a cruiser, bagged, satin baby blue paint, pinstriped, flame throwing exhaust, it was a total custom.
    (These are just the ones I remember)

    My uncle on the other hand is into nothing but cruisers, ratrods and flame throwers.


    Here's some pics of the LS1 powered '48 Chevy I said I would post




    Last edited by StickWelder; 12-19-2013 at 04:34 AM.
    SMWS6TA likes this.

  2. #22
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StickWelder View Post
    Well whatever car I do decide on will have quite a bit done to it right off the bat. I found another that i'm really interested in with a brand new motor that only has 5k and is still in warranty by GM for another 25k but the post was somehow lost (see last post).

    Here's what i'm looking to do:
    MS3 cam (+stall if auto but would rather have M6)
    Long tubes
    Loudmouth II
    LS6 intake
    SLP lid
    *Possibly* 9" rear
    Posi-trac
    Frost tune
    Yeah, that's pretty far beyond what I've experience in an LS powered car. I don't imagine you'd be disappointed.
    Lid, Throttle Body, LS6 Intake, Heads, Cam, Magnaflow, LS7 Clutch, SFCs, STB, Panhard Bar, Strano Springs, Hollow Sway Bars, Poly/Roto LCAs, Konis, MGW Shifter

  3. #23
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I'm just going to throw this out there for the OP...

    I feel that the LS1 is a little bit of a let down after 4000 rpm. If you nail the throttle below 2500, the pull isn't as strong as I'd like it to be be. There is an inital wallop as soon as you stomp the pedal, but as the rpms climb, the "surge" doesn't build like it does in some other (much more expensive) cars I've driven (911, NSX, etc). Now, if you're at/above 3500 and you stomp the gas, it pulls strong as hell. But for some resason, the lower you start in the rpm range, the less of a "thrill" you get as rpms climb toward redline. .
    That's the nature of the LS1, and if you've ever driven anything that makes a nice torque curve down low then you'll notice the lack of it in the LS1 even more. 200cc heads on a little 346 tend to do that.

    LT1's are completely different, with 350 cubes and 180cc heads they are much more snappy down low, but they do start to fall off above 5500.

    Comparing these in stock form of course, I've owned at least 3 examples of each, and my personal opinion is that I like the way the LT1 drives, especially around town, over an LS1. My LT1's always had snappy torque off idle making it more of a joy to drive. LS1's are soggy below 3,000 but that can be compensated with more rear gear and/or a nice stall converter

    In the grand scheme of things though, I'll take an LS1 simply because they are more plentifull to choose from and easier to find in better condition.

  4. #24
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    That's the nature of the LS1, and if you've ever driven anything that makes a nice torque curve down low then you'll notice the lack of it in the LS1 even more. 200cc heads on a little 346 tend to do that.

    LT1's are completely different, with 350 cubes and 180cc heads they are much more snappy down low, but they do start to fall off above 5500.

    Comparing these in stock form of course, I've owned at least 3 examples of each, and my personal opinion is that I like the way the LT1 drives, especially around town, over an LS1. My LT1's always had snappy torque off idle making it more of a joy to drive. LS1's are soggy below 3,000 but that can be compensated with more rear gear and/or a nice stall converter

    In the grand scheme of things though, I'll take an LS1 simply because they are more plentifull to choose from and easier to find in better condition.
    you left out faster and more dependable too
    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28 View Post
    Don't worry about understanding women. Women understand women, and they hate each other

  5. #25
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Naaman View Post
    I'm just going to throw this out there for the OP...

    Now, if you're at/above 3500 and you stomp the gas, it pulls strong as hell. But for some resason, the lower you start in the rpm range, the less of a "thrill" you get as rpms climb toward redline.
    That's because the LS1 "sweet spot" that is the power band is @ 3k rpm, Sara is a A4 with 3.73:1 rear end gears, coupled to a Y3000 converter (Yank).

    My point? with this setup, on aggressive throttle, upon shifting through the gears, I "spool up" quick enough to always stay in the power band.

    The performance converter takes care of any "lope" below 3k.

    I go from "farfegnugen" to "fukenmoven" in seconds

    You just have to understand what the vehicle does, and how to improve it.

  6. #26
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    you left out faster and more dependable too
    Well there is that too

  7. #27
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveC View Post
    That's because the LS1 "sweet spot" that is the power band is @ 3k rpm, Sara is a A4 with 3.73:1 rear end gears, coupled to a Y3000 converter (Yank).
    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    LS1's are soggy below 3,000 but that can be compensated with more rear gear and/or a nice stall converter
    .........

  8. #28
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    OP, I'm not slamming MS3's or 4's, I just know that they tend to go through valve springs every 25k miles. Not sure if it's from med-heavy track use or just by the design of the cam lobes. Something to think about.


    Oh and your Dad & Uncle I'm a little jealous..... some sweet rides.

  9. #29
    Member initechpeter's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am WS6 - Red
    2013 Chevy Traverse LTZ

    Just be patient and you'll find what your looking for. I bought a 96 T/A and about 2 months later traded for my 02. I could've found something much better if I would have just waiting alittle bit longer. Not to say i'm not happy, but I have a auto and I wanted a M6.

  10. #30
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by initechpeter View Post
    Just be patient and you'll find what your looking for. I bought a 96 T/A and about 2 months later traded for my 02. I could've found something much better if I would have just waiting alittle bit longer. Not to say i'm not happy, but I have a auto and I wanted a M6.
    I agree you should take your time and look. A nice stock car that has not been modded leaves you able to make it your own not what some one else thought was cool. I had my hart set on 96-7 TA ws6 and did more research on LS cars and found on a friends lot a untouched one owner 99 TA and have loved every minute modding it myself, talking with the experts on ls1.com, making friends, and knowing what ever I do to it is for ME....Good luck
    99 Trans Am, SLP Lid, Blackwing filter, smooth bellow, Ported TB, LS6 intake, Ws6 lower ram air box, OBX LT's, Magna Flow cat back, LS7 clutch, Tick MC, Hurst Shifter, Frost Tune, UMI SFC,LAC, STB, PB, Torq Arm, Super Hawk hood, Torq Thrust II, Kee Audio.
    Strange S60 4:10's, D&S Rotors, S/S Brake Lines.
    Nitto NT05R Track Tire's, 12.7 @ 108 / 1.82 60'
    Wish list.
    Coil overs, Heads & Cam

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by initechpeter View Post
    Just be patient and you'll find what your looking for. I bought a 96 T/A and about 2 months later traded for my 02. I could've found something much better if I would have just waiting alittle bit longer. Not to say i'm not happy, but I have a auto and I wanted a M6.
    Yea i'm trying to wait for the right one to come along. I did find one today while browsing through Craigslist that pretty much has everything I want done (except it's an auto but i'm leaning towards M6) but the asking price is a little high, the ad reads:

    gonna be straight forward car is not perfect just needs a few things to be. Needs new transmission dipstick tube and passenger o2 sensor does not read, but other then that it turns on and is drivable.
    It is an 2002 SLP edition camaro SS has it on the vin #. corvette wheels, it has a built LS1 with stage 2.5 PRC heads, MS3 Cam, Pace setter long tubes straight pipe, 3:73 gears, forged internals, SLP underdrive pulley, boost ready motor, 4L60E monster transmission with a 3600 stall. very clean. 65xxx miles on dial and motor and tranny has about 2500

  12. #32
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    Do I dare ask what happened to the dipstick tube?

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    OP, I'm not slamming MS3's or 4's, I just know that they tend to go through valve springs every 25k miles. Not sure if it's from med-heavy track use or just by the design of the cam lobes. Something to think about.

    I read that the PRC .650 springs last about 50k with the MS3 compared to the Patriot Dual Golds which only last 15-25k and I don't think it would really matter to me how long the springs last because the car wouldn't be getting a ton of miles in the first place, tops probably about 200/wk mainly as a grocery getter and cruiser cause my work tends to be 12+hrs a day 5-7 days a week... It would be considered a daily driver but realistically I put probably 750-1000 miles/wk on my welding rig which is my work truck. I have two diesel trucks, one is my work truck and the other is my DD after work.

    Plus i'll slowly be building it up to being strictly a drag/weekend car over the next couple of years


    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Oh and your Dad & Uncle I'm a little jealous..... some sweet rides.
    Haha thanks! My style tends to be a blend of both of their styles, I love the muscle under the hood but coupled along with a matte black paint and custom pinstriping, lowered down stance with a higher and narrowed rear end, etc.

  14. #34
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    check out Brian Tooley Racing SLR Hydraulic Roller Lifters

    , that's where I got my springs for my cam.

  15. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    check out Brian Tooley Racing SLR Hydraulic Roller Lifters

    , that's where I got my springs for my cam.
    Thanks! I'll keep those in mind once the right car comes along. What do you think about the car I found on Craigslist? It looks pretty nice from the pics they put up but I really don't think it's worth the 12k that they are asking...

  16. #36
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by StickWelder View Post
    Yea i'm trying to wait for the right one to come along. I did find one today while browsing through Craigslist that pretty much has everything I want done (except it's an auto but i'm leaning towards M6) but the asking price is a little high, the ad reads:

    gonna be straight forward car is not perfect just needs a few things to be. Needs new transmission dipstick tube and passenger o2 sensor does not read, but other then that it turns on and is drivable.
    It is an 2002 SLP edition camaro SS has it on the vin #. corvette wheels, it has a built LS1 with stage 2.5 PRC heads, MS3 Cam, Pace setter long tubes straight pipe, 3:73 gears, forged internals, SLP underdrive pulley, boost ready motor, 4L60E monster transmission with a 3600 stall. very clean. 65xxx miles on dial and motor and tranny has about 2500
    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Do I dare ask what happened to the dipstick tube?
    I'd be asking the same thing. It may have been an item lost or forgotten at the shop during rebuild.


    12k for the amount of mods and work seems a legit price. If it does have those mods it's about what they be if you did it yourself. I'd be asking for receipts, who did the work.....etc and test drive the hell out of it.



    This happen to me. - Went to look at a Firehawk. Had a 383 stroker recently put in. Test drove it for about 45-hr. I did several runs at low and hwy speeds. Just as I decided I wanted to get it, it broke a valve spring. So it killed the deal.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 12-20-2013 at 07:21 AM.

  17. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    12k for the amount of mods and work seems a legit price.
    I might run and check it out this weekend and if everything looks legit i'm pretty sure I can get it for around the 10k area due to the fact that it's so close to Christmas.

  18. #38
    Senior Member Naaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I'd be asking the same thing. It may have been an item lost or forgotten at the shop during rebuild.


    12k for the amount of mods and work seems a legit price. If it does have those mods it's about what they be if you did it yourself. I'd be asking for receipts, who did the work.....etc and test drive the hell out of it.



    This happen to me. - Went to look at a Firehawk. Had a 383 stroker recently put in. Test drove it for about 45-hr. I did several runs at low and hwy speeds. Just as I decided I wanted to get it, it broke a valve spring. So it killed the deal.


    That sucks for the seller. Lucky you, though!

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