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Long winter!!!Bought an ls6 intake how do I take ribs off

This is a discussion on Long winter!!!Bought an ls6 intake how do I take ribs off within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I am looking at this new intake with all the plastic rails on the back of it what is an ...

  1. #1
    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Long winter!!!Bought an ls6 intake how do I take ribs off

    I am looking at this new intake with all the plastic rails on the back of it what is an easy way to take them off and it has the injectors fuel rails etc on it already but has been off the car for 2 years Are those injectors still good since they are 28.8lbs vs 26lbs?????

    I bought a bunch of stuff including a cam so I'm looking at doing a little myself to pass the winter blues man its cols and long!!!

    Thanks

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    Member chris1974's Avatar
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    I believe a dremel would be easiest....although I've never actually done it. I've read about it though. There's a few good instructional threads here somewhere. I dunno about the injectors...

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    Member red00bird's Avatar
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    Look on youtube type in ls6 install part 2 guy does an awesome job
    Polluter,410 gears,ls6 intake,pacesetter long tubes ,tsp true duals,slp pulley,slp lid,stock pp throttle body,strano springs n sway bars,founders performance stb,Lca's and Lca relocation brackets,adjustable phb and phb relocation bracket,umi 3point sfc's ,diamond stg2 clutch,koni 4/3s,mgw shifter

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I just did this a couple of months ago for a local guy.

    I used a dremel and it works great. Takes about 20-30 mins to do.

    Some have removed all of the fins while others just remove what was necessary. I opted to remove all of them that way the KS wire harness wouldn't get pinched.

    Also another note - I used some yellow masking tape to tape down the wire harness in 2 spots to ensure it wouldn't move. Some times you have to move the intake and it will move the wire harness around if it isn't taped down. It really sucks to have to pull a intake that you just installed because the WH is pinched between the cylinder head and intake.

    Injectors - odds are they are still good, but the fuel left in them could have solidified (like a camel) and gunk up the insides. I believe some shops have a way to test injectors but I wouldn't know how much it would cost or what shops do it. Maybe a dealer

    A tune will be needed for the 28 lb injectors too. Check with Frost

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    The Generals Finest Deviant LS1's Avatar
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    A sharp chisel and a hammer. That's how I did mine. Only takes about five minutes.

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    Member My00Z28's Avatar
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    I havent gotten an ls6 intake yet but i would rather use a dremel than a chisel lol just my $0.02...

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    Member chris1974's Avatar
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    I could see where a good sharp chisel would have cleaner results...if you're careful that is.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    or just buy the block off's for the rears and crossover tube for the fronts....pretty cheap really.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Those are getting hard to find. I remember that they stop selling it as a LS6 Coolant Bypass kit and SDPC are now calling it LS3 Coolant Bypass Kit.

    I think WS6 store sells it (last time I checks it was around $65) as a whole kit and I'm not sure if any others do to but you can get it much cheaper from GM Parts Direct.


    Here are the part #'s for the kit.

    (prices per GMPartsDirect.com)

    Pipe Part # 12602548 $ 22.98

    Plugs (need 2) Part # 12602540 $ 6.07 ea




    OP while doing the intake swap you might want to read this:

    Explaination of OEM PCV vs LS6 VCT Mod

    and do this:

    LS6 valley cover in pics


    and also at the very lease update the knock sensors if you haven't ever replaced them. Like O2 sensors they too wear out.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    thunder racing still has them...

    20-12602540 for the plugs and 20-12602544 for the pipe.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    or just buy the block off's for the rears and crossover tube for the fronts....pretty cheap really.
    X2. Do not use the LS1 coolant crossover with the LS6 intake. It will not torque down properly and will not completely seal to the cylinder heads. LS6 coolant crossovers are cheap.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Holly crap I'm lost now so I have to buy all that stuff to do the swap Properly that is... I am doing the cam and I have 42000miles so not a lot of miles but man The never ending story on parts when you do a cam swap ishhhh!!!!!!Plus the ls6 intake nothing I heard before thanks guys!!! I hope my mechanic knows this stuff!

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Could someone just list all the parts in 1 post or I guess I can try to piece it toghter :-( I am getting overwhelmed

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    The Generals Finest Deviant LS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 9t8z28 View Post
    X2. Do not use the LS1 coolant crossover with the LS6 intake. It will not torque down properly and will not completely seal to the cylinder heads. LS6 coolant crossovers are cheap.
    Once you knock the ribs off the intake then it will bolt on fine. I had my LS6 intake off and on three times and I never had a vacuum leak or sealing issue over the LS1 crossovers. The LS1 crossovers cool better also.

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    BLKHWK Durango's Avatar
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    Ok so what you are telling me is if I buy the parts from Thunder racing the 2 plugs and the hose I still have to cut the ribs off or I should not buy those parts at all and just cut the ribs ????

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Durango View Post
    Ok so what you are telling me is if I buy the parts from Thunder racing the 2 plugs and the hose I still have to cut the ribs off or I should not buy those parts at all and just cut the ribs ????
    No if you but the ls6 coolant kit parts, ie, the front steel tube, and the 2 rear plugs you will not need to touch the intake it will just bolt right on. If you dont want to spend the money on it then you can use your stock coolant tubes but you will have to take the fins off the bottom of the intake. personally I would rather do the plugs, gm has been using the new design for years now and there is no definitive better cooling advantage and also I wouldnt want to be the one who cracks a 300 dollar intake

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    ^^^

    this is what the coolant bypass kit looks like installed (also the LS6 valley cover tray)





    I did it this because at the time I didn't want to dremel down the fins on the intake. I did do it for a buddies intake because he wanted to keep the LS1 style coolant tubes.

    The above post is correct in that GM motors all have this design in the pic above.


    You have 2 options:

    Option 1 - dremel the fins and install. as long as you shave them all down you will not have any vacuum leaks or fitment issues.

    Option 2 - get the bypass kit and install.


    Either way you go you'll be ok.

  18. #18
    The Generals Finest Deviant LS1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by redbird555 View Post
    No if you but the ls6 coolant kit parts, ie, the front steel tube, and the 2 rear plugs you will not need to touch the intake it will just bolt right on. If you dont want to spend the money on it then you can use your stock coolant tubes but you will have to take the fins off the bottom of the intake. personally I would rather do the plugs, gm has been using the new design for years now and there is no definitive better cooling advantage and also I wouldnt want to be the one who cracks a 300 dollar intake
    Pulling hot coolant from four ports definitely cools the rear of the head better than pulling coolant from the front two ports. There's no arguing that.

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant LS1 View Post
    Pulling hot coolant from four ports definitely cools the rear of the head better than pulling coolant from the front two ports. There's no arguing that.
    once again theres no definitive proof of that, gm has been using the new design for years and there are no ill affects so any argument there is moot. also the heads are the last place to get coolant so the coolant entering the heads is all the same temperature. and however much more the heads heat up the coolant before it goes back to the radiator is marginal. but this thread isnt about that its about how can the op install his intake lol so op have u figured out what direction you want to go.

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    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Deviant LS1 View Post
    Once you knock the ribs off the intake then it will bolt on fine. I had my LS6 intake off and on three times and I never had a vacuum leak or sealing issue over the LS1 crossovers. The LS1 crossovers cool better also.
    Well my engine was forced induction and the LS1 coolant crossovers caused the leak. So this proves that with a naturally aspirated engine, you still do not have a perfect seal. You'll notice seepage around the intake ports more with the LS1 coolant crossover than with the LS6 coolant crossover.

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