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long tube headers

This is a discussion on long tube headers within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Boothe These don't have any fitment issues Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2 actually i ...

  1. #41
    Junior Member nathanWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boothe View Post
    These don't have any fitment issues

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2
    actually i bought and installed these headers. had to grind down k-member on passenger side alittle.. you also may notice from picks that the o2 bungs are on outside which doesn't work so had to pay to have new ones welded on correct side.. also since they tended to bend upwards ground clearance is great but, then i had a slapping problem on drivers side floor..
    probably worth the headache for price
    eibach sportline springs,kyb shocks and struts,adj. panhard,LCAs with relocation brackets,strut tower brace, sub-frame connectors,poly motor mounts, LT headers,magnaflo catback,ORY pipe, SLP lid w/K&N, ram air mod,egr delete,PP TB,1000CFM MAF housing, LS6 intake,160 T-stat, tune by frost

  2. #42
    Member Boothe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanWS6 View Post
    actually i bought and installed these headers. had to grind down k-member on passenger side alittle.. you also may notice from picks that the o2 bungs are on outside which doesn't work so had to pay to have new ones welded on correct side.. also since they tended to bend upwards ground clearance is great but, then i had a slapping problem on drivers side floor..
    probably worth the headache for price
    I am prepared for that just making sure they have good fitment to the block with good seal and no leaks

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

  3. #43
    Junior Member nathanWS6's Avatar
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    block fitment was great.. just now getting used to the sound of stainless steel. i like it!!!

  4. #44
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    So what I gather is I can fab up some long tubes with 3" primary's into a 6" stove pipe and unlimited power? From what I've learned on this matter is your exhaust size does indeed need to be matched with your H.P. And the rpm band, back pressure is not needed but the size of the system matters. Smaller pipe increases volicity and in fact allowes the gases to move faster also heat also causes the gases to flow faster, the larger the pipe the cooler gasses get before the exit. the lower the power band the smaller the pipe, if your power is at increased rpm the larger the pipe but again still needs to be sized correct. Cars with PCMs need to be able to adjust air to fuel mixture and O2's do that with open headers in time could cause a lean condition. Every part of the mod needs to be matched from intake of air to exit of exhaust and everything in between. I've also read and seen dyno runs that bolt mufflers to the headers to get the most power from the motor thay are testing it for sure isn't for sound thay do that..there is plenty info on this just google it ! Some motor set ups open headers all the way but others do need a matched exhaust for performance, I even read where Lamborghini uses a two stage primary 2" for low rpm and opens to a 3" at higher rpm's
    Jeff, I hope you're being facetious with your comments about 3'' primaries 6'' stove pipes allowing an engine to make unlimited power. Save that for the black smoke crowd lol. Yes the exhaust does need to be matched to the engine, just because you are running open exhaust doesn't mean the engine suddenly has an extra 100 HP. And yes smaller pipes increase velocity but also increases pressure, there is usually a happy meeting point on that, with bigger pipes resulting in less gain, but then again open flow almost always results in more peak HP.

    Check out this link, some dyno results are at the end of the article:

    Performance Exhaust Install - High Performance Pontiac Magazine

  5. #45
    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nathanWS6 View Post
    block fitment was great.. just now getting used to the sound of stainless steel. i like it!!!
    Headers have a nice sound, eh? Did you get the banging resolved? I had to massage my ORY a bit for clearance on the drivers side, it was too close under the car. But, my ground clearance actually improved over the stock Y-pipe.

  6. #46
    Member Boothe's Avatar
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    What gaskets are popular and good to use on the header installs?

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

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    Quote Originally Posted by Boothe View Post
    What gaskets are popular and good to use on the header installs?

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

    Stock GM gaskets.

  8. #48
    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Jeff, I hope you're being facetious with your comments about 3'' primaries 6'' stove pipes allowing an engine to make unlimited power. Save that for the black smoke crowd lol. Yes the exhaust does need to be matched to the engine, just because you are running open exhaust doesn't mean the engine suddenly has an extra 100 HP. And yes smaller pipes increase velocity but also increases pressure, there is usually a happy meeting point on that, with bigger pipes resulting in less gain, but then again open flow almost always results in more peak HP.

    Check out this link, some dyno results are at the end of the article:

    Performance Exhaust Install - High Performance Pontiac Magazine
    steve, good read and yes I was just having some fun with the comment, in the artical thay are talking about a high performance engine with head work as well as cam work and still talk of size matching that was my point If I remember correct at the start of this thread we were talking about putting a set of open headers on a stock LS1 and running it with no problems, I do agree open up the exhaust always will help but all open on a stock motor I don't agree with that..Stacy Davids show Gears on speed ch. had a good show on this topic a while back, he said if I remember correct a 350-400h.p.+ should use 2.5" duels or a 3" single 500h.p.+ should use 3" duels and a 4" single so size does matter..lol. Anyhow got a lot of good reading and learned some more info that is why I love this site always something to learn

  9. #49
    Member Boothe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Stock GM gaskets.
    Awesome

    Sent from my Motorola Electrify using Tapatalk 2

  10. #50
    Junior Member nathanWS6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Too Fast View Post
    Headers have a nice sound, eh? Did you get the banging resolved? I had to massage my ORY a bit for clearance on the drivers side, it was too close under the car. But, my ground clearance actually improved over the stock Y-pipe.
    yes i did too fast.. the poly motor mounts solved the hitting i had. it was in same place as yours. for good measure i put a rubber isulator between pipe and floorpan. no problems since.

  11. #51
    Junior Member Big D Squared's Avatar
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    So I'm going to end up getting the eBay headers and ory and cat back exhaust from Texas speed the cheapest and best way to go for sound quality wish me luck with those bolts that screw into the block anyone have any problems with getting the bolts to loosen when the changed there's ?

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    Bolts that screw into the block? No such thing on the exhaust system. Are you referring to the exhaust manifold bolts that screw into the heads?

    If so, then you do have to be careful removing them. Start by removing your cowl seal pins in the areas you will be working -- they will shred your hands in a hurry if you don't. Just use a flat blade scewdriver and pop them up from under the cowl. Remove your plug wires and coil pack electrical connectors and then unbolt the coil packs from the rocker covers. The rear bolt on the passenger side is a bit fun to remove. I found that a ratcheting 10mm wrench worked best. After the coil packs are out of your way, then remove the spark plugs. No. 8 (rear plug, passenger side) is best accessed from beneath the vehicle. A 1-1/2" extension on your 3/8" drive ratchet works great.

    All of the manifold bolts should be broke free to start before attempting to remove any of them. This will allow the manifold to float and not bind against the threads as you then remove each bolt in turn. After you break them free, be very careful as they are threaded into aluminum. If it feels like a bolt is "tightening up" as you back it out -- stop! Hit it with WD-40 (or the like) and then turn it back in a bit and then back out. Rock the bolt in and out this way until you feel it free up. If you break one off, or pull the threads out of the aluminum head, you'll be removing the head to make repairs.

    I recommend GM exhaust gaskets and stainless header bolts. I went with Stage 8 locking fastners on our car. Also, use some anti-seize on the new bolts and do not overtighten them. If you are replacing your wires, go with MSD's and you can bend the boots for additional clearance. I recommend using dielectric grease on the plug wires. Put a small dab into the end of each boot (both the coil side and plug side) before installation. This will seal out moisture and ease future removal. DEI spark plug boots are also good insurance as they protect the plug boot and wire very well. Upon reinstallation, make sure you hear or feel one "click" on the spark plugs and two "clicks" on the coil packs.

    Good luck!
    Last edited by pajeff02; 07-28-2012 at 04:09 AM.

  13. #53
    Junior Member Big D Squared's Avatar
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    So will liquid wrench work with the bolts into the head I just don't want to have to tear into the head due to a bolt braking that would suck and it's my dd

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    The issue is that the factory manifold bolts are made out of steel and the heads are aluminum. The resultant galvanic action can cause the bolts to seize in the aluminum threads and make removal difficult. I had a couple on our car that I had to work on a bit, but overall there were no major issues. Hope for the best and simply take your time. If you experience an issue, post up and let us know and we'll walk you through what to do.

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    Senior Member kingls1's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Big D Squared View Post
    So will liquid wrench work with the bolts into the head I just don't want to have to tear into the head due to a bolt braking that would suck and it's my dd
    Being this is your dd just make sure you have all the parts lined up and maybe a buddie also to give you a hand this can be a big job and a extra set of hands will help, just stay calm thay will fit and it is way worth it when done!
    Smittro likes this.

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    Junior Member Big D Squared's Avatar
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    Thanks man

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