A little guidance needed...

[Kamauxx]

I've got a 98 z28. True duals, longtubes, lid, stall, torquer v3 cam, 3.73, couple other things.

Now, I'm wondering, should I do a FAST 90/Holley 90 swap onto the engine or get a stronger rear end that can handle DR's/slicks. I'm looking for a low E/T not the highest possible hp.

Long question short, which set up will lower my E/T the most? Rear end + DRs/slicks, or stock rear with 90/90?

Also, can I reuse my 3.73s if I change rear ends?

Also, also, the car won't be living at the track, and it won't be driven hard ALL the time. So would it hurt the stock rear if I run DR's on it?

Also, also, also, how many miles are DRs good for before needing replacing?

[Sarge]

I've got a 98 z28. True duals, longtubes, lid, stall, torquer v3 cam, 3.73, couple other things.

Now, I'm wondering, should I do a FAST 90/Holley 90 swap onto the engine or get a stronger rear end that can handle DR's/slicks. I'm looking for a low E/T not the highest possible hp.

Long question short, which set up will lower my E/T the most? Rear end + DRs/slicks, or stock rear with 90/90?

Also, can I reuse my 3.73s if I change rear ends?

Also, also, the car won't be living at the track, and it won't be driven hard ALL the time. So would it hurt the stock rear if I run DR's on it?

Also, also, also, how many miles are DRs good for before needing replacing?

All good questions......
Well I looked up that cam ( good streetable cam) and I doubt you would see much change in your ET's by swapping to the 90MMFAST/TB setup
Yes Drag Radials hook much much better and result in better 60' times thus lower ET. I would say a 2 tenths should be realized for sure ( and that's a bunch)
The stocker will take some abuse.....I would run a 75-140 or 80-140 weight rear end oil in your gear punkin to absorb as much shock as possible....
Nitto 555R's last good....5-7K miles with a bunch of launches on em....
What rpm stall you running? Have you programmed your shift points and firmness?

[0rion]

I agree with Sarge. Since you're an auto your rear *should* handle a bit more abuse than someone with an M6. I also like to err on the side of caution. I personally got my rear before my heads/cam because I didn't want to break at the track and with a stock rear and sticky tires you're on borrowed time with a cam car A4 or M6. I personally would just do the rear and sticky tires. You'd see better gains from that. With very few runs at the track I got ~12k out of my last set of Nitto's but if you're looking strictly for low ET's at the track I would get a spare set of rims and run true slicks at the track and run the Nitto's on the street. Unfortunately you won't be able to use your current gear set if you go to a 12 bolt. That's also why I recommend people not put money into their stock rears, it's kind of a waste of money. The good news is you can sell them and make a little of your money back.

[superbird496]

focus on ur end result if u plan on making any power do urself a favor and build the drivetrain to handle the hp also if u plan on putting any type of tire on the car invest in the rear axle first