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Line Lock Look

This is a discussion on Line Lock Look within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Been checking out the SLP Line Lock kit and have reviewed both past threads and the instructions available on-line at ...

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    Line Lock Look

    Been checking out the SLP Line Lock kit and have reviewed both past threads and the instructions available on-line at SLP's website. From what I can tell, it appears the solenoid mounts to the front of the strut tower. Can someone please post a pic showing their installed line lock? I would like to check out what it looks like when completed.

    Are there any other F-body kits out there other than SLP? From the threads it appears you need to teflon tape the fittings due to leakage issues -- not cool when it comes to brakes. And, has anyone bent their own lines and located the solenoid somewhere that is more out of sight? I kind of like the look of a cleaned up engine bay -- the less is more kind of thing.

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    Member midi_2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Been checking out the SLP Line Lock kit and have reviewed both past threads and the instructions available on-line at SLP's website. From what I can tell, it appears the solenoid mounts to the front of the strut tower. Can someone please post a pic showing their installed line lock? I would like to check out what it looks like when completed.

    Are there any other F-body kits out there other than SLP? From the threads it appears you need to teflon tape the fittings due to leakage issues -- not cool when it comes to brakes. And, has anyone bent their own lines and located the solenoid somewhere that is more out of sight? I kind of like the look of a cleaned up engine bay -- the less is more kind of thing.
    I've been interested myself. Hopefully you come up with some good inf.

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    I somehow ordered both the SLP and the HURST linelocks and upon opening determined the SLP was much easier and user friendly to install (pre bent lines-perfect fit right out of the box). You can't mess it up just remember on the bottom line that goes from the line lock to the brake controller (modular block), brass end goes to line lock (the threads are not the same and you can strip out the controller (modular block). And use teflon tape to get a good seal on the nipples/adapter that actually go into the line lock, not the fittings themselves. Overall it is one of the simplest do it yourself things you can do. O and don't forget to bleed the brakes when you are done...lol.

    I set mine up to be ground seeking. Power wire with fuse attaches to electrical post right in front of line lock. The other wire (long wire) runs in front of radiator with existing wire harness and feeds through firewall by the computer (passenger side) and behind radio, comes through center console to the switch in ash tray (if you use this route, must make/drill hole in ash tray), then the ground wire goes from other switch post on switch to a ground right under the ash tray. Total time to install, maybe 2 hours on a bad day...lol. As far as tubing, long line goes from brake cylinder port nearest firewall to top of linelock, the short S shaped line goes from bottom of line lock to aft driver side port of brake controller (modular block).









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    Member TACE02's Avatar
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    O and don't mind the engine bay, I need to detail it, Again. Dam West TX. lol.

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    Thank you for the pics. I couldn't find anything shot from a distance in my search, just close ups. It actually does not look out of place since it is situate adjacent to the ABS block.

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    Member TACE02's Avatar
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    No Problem. And it is a well worth investment. Fun to have and it definately saves your rotors.


    Lol, and I couldn't remember the name of that dam mod block...lol.

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    Nice post. I was thinking about getting this. When I do, this will help a lot.


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    Pretty much exactly what mine looks like as well.
    Helped some locals install theirs, same thing. Pretty simple install, just use a little teflon tape on the threads. None will get in.

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    I wasn't that impressed with my SLP line lock. It works fine but I thought the install could've went much smoother for what it is. If I remember correctly too the instructions were flat ass wrong as to which line went where on the solenoid.

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    Liquid Teflon would probably work better. I really need to get a linelock.

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    Started on the line lock install this evening and am probably going to mount it as SLP intended. I may shoot it black before installing it -- up in the air on that still. In looking the kit over, I noticed that the lines that go to the master and ABS block have a strange looking flare. Rather than being the standard double flare, they have a tip that is bubbled out. Hope this is correct as I have not ever seen this before. I used teflon tape on the brass reducers that install in the line lock -- I assume that this is not necessary on the flared fittings?

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    Have to look what brand line lock I have when I get out of work but here's another


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    Quote Originally Posted by Lqdsilver View Post
    Have to look what brand line lock I have when I get out of work but here's another

    Click for full size

    That is certainly a lot different looking than the SLP unit.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Started on the line lock install this evening and am probably going to mount it as SLP intended. I may shoot it black before installing it -- up in the air on that still. In looking the kit over, I noticed that the lines that go to the master and ABS block have a strange looking flare. Rather than being the standard double flare, they have a tip that is bubbled out. Hope this is correct as I have not ever seen this before. I used teflon tape on the brass reducers that install in the line lock -- I assume that this is not necessary on the flared fittings?
    yep its called bubble flare or ISO flare. Very common now. Teflon tape not required. All the sealing is done at the flare

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    Quote Originally Posted by TACE02 View Post
    O and don't mind the engine bay, I need to detail it, Again. Dam West TX. lol.
    Where at in West TX?

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    dam... mine has been sitting in the closet for almost a year now... gotta get this done...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    yep its called bubble flare or ISO flare. Very common now. Teflon tape not required. All the sealing is done at the flare

    I picked up a Blue Point Double Flaring tool a few years back -- looks like that is not going to work on the modern stuff. The ends just appeared awful strange to me and I wanted to make sure they are right before I remove the factory line. Thanks!

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    Mounted the line lock today and started on the wire run. I took one look at the self-tapping screws in the kit and knew there was no way I was going to run them through by hand. I have a 1/4" long extension that I hacked the end off of so that I can chuck it into my drill. That and a swivel worked perfectly.

    The other thing that bothered me was the proposed wire run. The instructions indicate that the harness portal in the passenger side firewall, behind the PCM, should be used. That means you have to come up the wheel well and across the radiator support to get to the line lock. Instead, I pulled the trim panels out from under the driver side dash and found all kinds of room.

    From the engine compartment, I used a long 1/4" drill bit and a drill bit extension to place a hole just to the left of the bolt that secures the firewall harness connector (to the right of the brake booster). I popped a small grommet into the hole and have the wire poked through into the driver compartment. Much shorter wire run this way -- now I have to figure out where to mount the switch.
    Last edited by pajeff02; 03-13-2010 at 06:35 PM.

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    Option 1: on the console next to the shifter
    Option 2: under the armrest
    Option 3: in the ash tray

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    Quote Originally Posted by cammed goat View Post
    Option 1: on the console next to the shifter
    Option 2: under the armrest
    Option 3: in the ash tray

    Option 3 would be great -- I also have the cutout swith to mount too. If there is room for both that may be exactly what I do. There is no way I am cutting a hole in an interior panel, but an ashtray is, well... just an ashtray. I'll check it out tomorrow.

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