Line Lock Installation

***SMWS6TA*** · 01-26-2012, 07:59 PM

FIRST I'd like to thank Jeff (PAJEFF02) and Roger from Emblem Pros - many thanks guys for your help!!

Ok this thread is for those like me that get the SLP Line Lock and have some Jackass not use a doc protector for their instructions prior to vacuum seal their product to cardboard for shipping like this:

Tools needed:
Wire Crimps
Electrical Tape
Connectors that slide on the pins of the solenoid and an O ring style for grounding.
Sockets and ratchet.

These are for running the wire through the firewall on the driver’s side, see attached thread below.
Drill
A long 3/8” drill bit – by long I had to get one that was 18” long.
A punch (I used a 14” extension with a socket that the punch would fit and tape to hold – again see the thread below)

I will explain two ways to do this setup. The first is using the SLP switch (2pin) and the second is using a LED switch (3 pin) from EMBLEMPROS

Like I stated above their instructions were screwed up because some jackass didn't use a doc protector. So I had to look at a couple of other members pics to figure it out.

Step 1 –Running Wiring

You have to make a choice on where you will run the long wire provided to get into the car’s cabin.

* Disconnect battery for both procedures for safety

Passenger side- This entails more work and takes the longest to do so I’ll explain it first.

* Remove the PCM by removing the 2 bolts and disconnect the wire harness carefully.

* Look in the space where the PCM was and you will see where the wires go into the car cabin area.

* Carefully remove the grommet, next insert the end of the long wire and pull enough wire through to get to your switch mounting point.

* Reinsert the grommet carefully

* Reinstall the PCM and connect the wire harness, don’t forget the bolts, tighten to snug not with He-man torque specs otherwise you’ll be buying a new harness.

Driver’s Side

I chose this side because it is so much easier and lucky for me Jeff figure out how to do this so I’ll just add his link here

Running wires through the Driver’s Fire wall:

http://www.ls1.com/forums/f6/running...rewall-139760/

Step 2 – Solenoid Placement

* As you can see in the pic above this is where you will place it. It comes with some self tapping screws but I still had to use a punch and a starter hole to keep them from walking. I also remove the wires that connect to the positive post next to the fuse box for more room.

* Get some rags, a lot, enough to cover any paint. Place them under the brake reservoir and next to the ABS system.

* I took this added step – I used a turkey baser and sucked up as much fluid from the reservoir as possible to minimize spillage.

* Remove the break line that connects to the top right of the ABS, follow it to the reservoir and remove from there as well

* Take the long brake line from the kit, connect it to the reservoir, add the brass fitting (also from the kit) and hand screw into the solenoid.

* Take the short brake line with multiple bends and hand tighten to the top of the ABS, on the other end add the brass fitting and hand tighten onto the solenoid.

* Fill the reservoir and make sure everything looks like the above pic

* You now have 2 choices here, directions will call for bleeding the whole system or you can just gravity bleed, I choose gravity bleed with no issues. Whichever way you choose make sure you go back and then tighten everything down.

Ninja Edit: Gravity Bleeding

DO NOT PRESS THE BREAKS WHILE DOING THIS PROCEDURE

You undo the break line that connects to the top of the solenoid and let the fluid from the reservoir flow unit it starts coming out then quickly attached it back on, next do the same thing with the line that goes from the bottom of the solenoid to the ABS. This get's like 99% of the air out of the new lines and solenoid.

* Reconnect the wire harness to the positive post if you did this step earlier.

Step 3 – Switch hook up

2 PIN (SLP switch from kit)

* Pick a spot for the switch to mount – drill hole to size and mount the switch by tighten the nut on the back.

* Run a short wire with the inline fuse connector (part of kit) off the positive post next to the fuse box then to the pin on line lock. This part of the instructions that were destroyed so I just picked on of the pins. Either pin will work.

* The long wire connects to the other pin

* The end of the long wire that is now in the cabin gets a pin connect on it and connects to the pin on the 2 pin switch (they provide)

* Run a wire from the second pin to a ground.

* Now you’re ready to hook up the battery

* Flip switch you should here an audible click from the solenoid if you do that means it is working fine, if not you may have to turn key on, try again. If still not working check the fuse located in the inline fuse holder (it’s black and if you follow these directions by the solenoid next to the positive post near the fuse box)

* All is working GO DO SOME BURN OUTS!!!!

3 PIN LED Switch (Emblem Pros)

I chose this switch from Roger (Emblem Pros) because it has a LED when it's activated unlike the SLP switch and I wanted to place mine in a remote spot that can hide the switch. I choose the ash tray.

EMBLEMPROS.COM - GM LICENSED AND CUSTOM VEHICLE EMBLEMS - 1997 - 2002 Manual Transmission F-Body Ashtray Switchplate

You cannot use the same wire set up procedures for a 2 pin with this switch. I had to call Roger and we figured out what the problem was. He sent me this diagram below.

Based on the diagram I went with the left side for set up for the internals by doing these steps:

* Make a wire long enough to ground the switch, I used the screw that holds the consul down that is located directly below the ash tray

(Ignore the SECOND Ground Wire in this pic, this is for something else)

* Use the positive wire from the ash tray light - connect it to the bottom of the switch to use as the 12 volt source. (You will need to turn the running lights on in order for power to go to the switch, think of it as a secondary safety to prevent accidental activation)

* The wire that SLP provides to go from the switch to the line lock - connect it to the middle pin

* Take the short wire with the inline fuse, splice it to the long wire and then connect it to the pin of on the solenoid

* Make another wire long enough to go to a grounding point and secure it there. There is one on the driver’s fender well just above the fuse box.

* Connect this wire to the pin on the solenoid.

Here is a pic to show what I described in the last 3 steps

* Now you’re ready to hook up the battery

* Flip switch you should NOT here an audible click from the solenoid if you do that means it is NOT working properly, check hook ups again. It should not work because there should be no power coming through the hot wire from the ash tray light that you use for a power source.

* Turn key on and turn running lights on and try again. This time the LED light should come on and you should here an audible click from the solenoid.

* If still not working check the fuse located in the inline fuse holder (it’s black and if you follow these directions by the solenoid next to the positive post near the fuse box)

* All is working GO DO SOME BURN OUTS!!!!

For the record the line lock held, the remaining burn out was from the roll out upon releasing the switch.

I hope this helps.

I got to take a couple of pics in the daylight to add, I ran out of time today because of thunderstorms rolling through.

**KMdef9** · 01-26-2012, 08:27 PM

Thank you!

**KMdef9** · 01-26-2012, 08:41 PM

And how is a gravity bleed done?

***SMWS6TA*** · 01-26-2012, 08:47 PM

DO NOT PRESS THE BREAKS WHILE DOING THIS PROCEDURE

You undo the break line that connects to the top of the solenoid and let the fluid from the reservoir flow unit it starts coming out then quickly attached it back on, next do the same thing with the line that goes from the bottom of the solenoid to the ABS. This get's like 99% of the air out of the new lines and solenoid.

I'll go back and ninja edit it in.