Lessons learned, long (pic)
This is a discussion on Lessons learned, long (pic) within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Just thought I would throw this out there so maybe it can help keep others from going through the headache ...
09-05-2009, 06:27 PM #1
Lessons learned, long (pic)
Just thought I would throw this out there so maybe it can help keep others from going through the headache I finally got myself out of. For those of you who hadn't read my previous posts this week, I wrote here a couple times almost pleading for an answer. Here is what I changed, the problem, the solutions, and the leasons learned.
I installed a BBK SSI intake, BBK 85mm throttle body, SLP lid, SLP CAI, SLP smooth bellows, SLP high flow MAF, Hotchkis 1-1/2 drop springs, BMR strut tower brace, March 25% underdrive pulleys, and a Magna Flow catback.
Problem: At start engine would rev, immediatley, to 4000 rpms, wouldn't stay running, and when the accelerator was feathered you could hear back firing inside the intake plenum. Also there was no oil pressure indication on my gauge.
Solution: Pulled intake and found a threaded hole in the back with nothing in it. Found hardware that came with intake and found, supplied threaded plug. Applied teflon tape to plug and screwed it in said hole. Also found broked oil pressure sending unit and replaced.
Lesson learned: I told myself from the beginning to read the directions line by line and do each step accordingly. However, I paid such close attention to the directions that I didn't bother looking at the rest of the intake or the supplied hardware and ensuring there was nothing missing or unused. As for the oil pressure sending unit...I tried to be careful but it was just too fragile. So take it from me. If your removing your intake just plan ahead on replacing the sending unit ($30-$50).
Problem: Idle and drivability 100 times better but still revs to 2000-3000 rpms when coming to a stop. Also SES light throws P0171 "System too lean, Bank 1" code.
Solution: Pulled intake, again, and broke knock sensor clips off that held them to the cooling lines.
Problem: Still the same as the last problem.
Solution: Hooked up my computer with HP Tuners Pro and looked at all the parameters. Stuff looked funny but I'm so new to tuning that I still couldn't figure it out. My dad suggested putting a screwdriver on each injector then putting my ear on the screwdriver. I laughed, then did it. Sure enough all of the injectors were clicking away. But I noticed that the injector orings wereshaved and the shavings were laying aroung the injectors. Removed fuel rail, replaced orings, reinstalled fuel rail, took car for a test drive...
Finally it drives like a dream.
So if you have to do this here are a few tips:
socket set (of course)
Wrench set (of course)
fuel quick disconnect tool
swivels and extensions (1-1/2", 3", 6")
new oil pressure sending unit
injector oring set (cost me $13 for all 8 sets and silicone grease)
throttle body spray cleaner
Lift back end of intake as high as it will go as you install or remove it.
Make sure all tubing and connectors are disconnected before pulling out intake. There are 3. On the passenger side there is the MAP sensor plug and vacuum hose. On the drivers side there is the vacuum hose that leads to the brake booster. Disconnect it at the booster and guide it through as you pull the intake.
If at all possible have someone there for help.
Look at the intake and make sure nothing is missing.
Have someone QC your work if possible.
After intake is installed start and spray throttlebody cleaner around intake ports, under intake, around injectors, and around hoses. If idle speeds up you have a leak.
Do not over tighten intake. There is a torque sequence. Follow it. Step 1. 44 in/lbs. Step 2. 87 in/lbs.
Reconnect battery once everything is connected, double checked, and you are ready to start.
Replace the sending unit and injector orings since you already have the intake out. Believe me, you don't want to pull that out more than you have to.
Read all the directions before you start and each step while you are working.
And finally, if you can afford it, pay a professional to do it for you.
Hope this helps.
Last edited by !!!FAST!!!; 09-05-2009 at 06:29 PM.
09-05-2009, 06:44 PM #2
Yep opsu can be a bitch, did you ever consider a mod day?
09-05-2009, 06:54 PM #3
09-05-2009, 06:58 PM #4
Sorry it was such a PITA, but, it sure looks nice
09-05-2009, 09:14 PM #5
09-06-2009, 03:27 AM #6
Thanks for taking the time to write this up. I disagree with the last statement though; do it yourself, take your time, do it right, ask questions before and during - not after - and you will have a great job and the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
09-06-2009, 06:57 AM #7
09-06-2009, 06:58 AM #8
09-12-2009, 06:17 AM #9
Just wanted to add. While the intake is out check all your PCV lines and connections for wear and rot. This may be a good time to do the PCV system change out. Here is the link for that: COMPLETE REDO of PCV System(pics writeup)
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