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Thread: Knowledgeable help please.
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07-21-2010, 02:40 PM #1
Knowledgeable help please.
For starters I need to know how to find out for sure if my '98 Camaro is an SS or not. I am building a 408 stroker motor with L-92 heads. I plan on having them CNC'd on the exhaust side only. And maybe the combustion chambers because I don't want the intake port to big for street driving. Where is the best place to find a cam? And would the LS3 or LS7 intake be the best choice for this motor and why? How much difference are there between the two? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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07-21-2010, 03:54 PM #2
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- Jun 2009
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- coon rapids, MN
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red- 2000TA
google the vin to check if it is a SS.get the heads ported and flowed first then pick a cam.contact Bret Bauer at Bauer Racing Engines,or Geoff at Engine Power Systems. use the intake that flows better.I would guess the ls7 flows better since it is for a bigger engine.
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07-21-2010, 06:47 PM #3
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- Feb 2009
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- Florida Man Status Acheivement
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Navy Blue Metallic- 98 T/A w/ mods, 00 FBVert
Always check the stickies above, they will have most of the time answers. Here is the RPO codes for our cars. Scroll down and see what the SS option is then check the sticker on your drivers door. You can also run your VIN # by the dealership and they should be able to tell you also.
http://performanceworks1.com/PDF%20F...-car-codes.pdf
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07-21-2010, 07:45 PM #4
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2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Does it say "WU8" on the sticker on the drivers door? If yes then it's an SS.
And, if you're doing an alternate engine does it matter?
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07-27-2010, 02:50 PM #5
Thanks for the input guys. I hope to get 550-600 at the crank. Is that crazy or what? Any suspension ideas to help hook it up?
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07-27-2010, 03:10 PM #6
Subframe Connectors, Probably gonna want a rear end, tubular adjustable panhard bars, tubular adjustable lower control arms, tubular torque arm with a relocation bracket to get the pressure off the tail of you transmission and some sticky tires.
I don't think I missed anything I don't think. If I did someone else will chime in I'm sure.
I forgot to add relocation brackets for the lower control arms. I think they help either way but helps the angle on lowered cars if you are lowered. A battery relocation kit moving your battery to the trunk and tubular cross member with complementing parts would help too.Last edited by IH8EVRY1; 07-27-2010 at 03:12 PM. Reason: Add relocation brackets
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08-02-2010, 01:55 PM #7
Thanks. Could I rebuild the stock rear with good gears, a good posi ,and axels? Does anyone have a similar combo? If so how much power does it make and what mods did you try?
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08-02-2010, 02:17 PM #8
- Join Date
- Feb 2007
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- San Diego, CA
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- 5,823
2002 Z28 A4 NBM- Sadly now demodded :(
Everybody I know that has eclipsed (or come close to) 500rwhp has a 12 bolt, 9" or Dana 60 style rearend.
Most folks choose to upgrade what they know will break prior to breaking it.67 Camaro: K-K + 797-z (look it up), 454/Th400/4.10 12-bolt = 6mpg, PS/PDB/PW tilt, tach, gauges...
2005 Corvette LS2/M6 Magnetic Red Metallic (What else would it be?) w/ Cashmere interior
2002 Z28: NBM/Tan, MTI smooth lid, smooth bellows, !AIR, !cats, 1-3/4" QTP SS LT's, 2-1/2" TD's with X-pipe, MagnaFlows dumped at axle, custom welded SFC's, MidWest Chassis body mount adjustable T/A, 3400 stall, 3.23 gears (was 2.73). Tuned: 343rwhp/357rwt (before TD's). Best: 12.559 @ 108+, 1.73 60' @ 3500' DA w/MT ET Street DR's.
Carbon footprint? CLOWN SHOE!
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08-02-2010, 02:41 PM #9
the stock rear is a pretty weak piece. Some guys make it last longer than others but it always fails at some point. You're better off just planning on the rear along with everything else.
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