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knock sensor codes

This is a discussion on knock sensor codes within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I've been having alot of issues with the knock sensors on my '01 Z28. At first I had code P0327 ...

  1. #1
    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    knock sensor codes

    I've been having alot of issues with the knock sensors on my '01 Z28. At first I had code P0327 (front knock sensor malf.) wich I attributed to washing my engine and getting alot of water under the intake. I had that one and the rear one changed at the same time and sure enough both sensors were rusty and moist. This worked for about two weeks and then I had code P0332 (rear knock sensor malf.) In stead of taking it to the shop, I did it myself. Both sensor 'cups' had moisture in them and rust particles and the new sensors were starting to rust. I cleaned everything real good and replaced both sensors again AND the wiring harness. This worked for another week and low and behold now I have code P0332. I have had my car checked by several mechanics and there isn't a knock or pinging issue. I run 93 octane with Lucas UCL all the time. I'm getting frustrated with it because these codes are retarding my timing and causing other issues. Can anyone advise me what to do next?

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    are you using GM parts?

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    Senior Member redbird555's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z/28 Pewter

    Whered you get the sensors from.. I put advance knock sensos in and I was throwing knock sensor codes. I went with autozone and havent had an issue but oem is def best.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    The wiring harness is GM. The sensors came from Discount auto parts. Is there a specific torque setting for them? The reason I ask is that I broke the OPS in the back and when I replaced it, I didn't tighten it enough and I had a small oil leak. I took the manifold back off and tightened it down. I guess what I'm asking is if I didn't tighten them enough could that set them off?

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    I think advance auto is the same as discount auto in Florida.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ray View Post
    I guess what I'm asking is if I didn't tighten them enough could that set them off?
    Yes loose knock sensors set codes. the spec is 15 FT*IBs

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    I think I'm gonna take it all back off and retorque them and see what happens. Thanks.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    15 ft/lbs really isn't that much so unless they're completely loose I doubt that's it. I would look for the root cause of where the moisture is coming from. Are your vent pipes or vent ports in the heads leaking perhaps? Could just be bad sensors but the moisture definitely will kill them so I'd be seeing what I can do about that. One thing you can do is take some silicone and build a little levee around the sensors to keep water from getting to them.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    That sounds like a good idea. It's embarrassing to admit, but I believe all the moisture that was under there has alot to do with my compulsive use of the local car wash. It's got a lot of pressure and I have been using it two to three times a week. I believe the water is is coming from the bottom of the windshield and entering the manifold area.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    I forgot to ask, but where are the vent pipes on the heads and can they be seen with the manifold off? How can I check them? Thanks.

  11. #11
    Next time you have everything apart seal the rubber knock sensor plugs to the valley cover with some RTV. Make sure you use new GM sensors and have the hole completely dry before doing so.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Ray View Post
    I forgot to ask, but where are the vent pipes on the heads and can they be seen with the manifold off? How can I check them? Thanks.
    you have an 01 so the vent pipes were my bad.....you don't have them going under the intake but you have a single that runs across the front and a set of plugs in the same position on the backs of the heads.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    I think that was my problem. I cleaned and dried the front one well, but I had a hard time with the rear one. It had so much rust that was moist enough to form clay-like lumps. I had a hard time getting everything out and I bet when I replaced the grommet I sealed the remaining moisture in it. Looks like another manifold removal tomorrow. Not to change the subject, but while I have the manifold off, I'm considering removing the pcv lines and reworking them. Is there a consensus on the best way to do this? I already have one of the water/air separators in line right before the pcv valve enters the TB. Any suggestions?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    you already have the LS6 pcv version so the only other option I know of is to block it off completely and put filters on everything which in and of itself is debatable amongst the people around here.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    From what I've read here, that would be something someone would consider for racing. If the LS6 pcv system is ok, I think I'll just stick with what I've got although I am considering buying a real catch can instead of the little glass one I have. It's only been there a week and it's already turned the stone in it black from the oil mist.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    check with mark at KYSpeed for the catch can. They had a deal on some a while back in the sponsor area.

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    Junior Member David Ray's Avatar
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    Thanks.

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