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Keeps throwing P0327 code...driving me nuts!

This is a discussion on Keeps throwing P0327 code...driving me nuts! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I don't really know what spark knock sounds like to be honest. BUT, I did take it by the shop ...

  1. #41
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    I don't really know what spark knock sounds like to be honest. BUT, I did take it by the shop today, just to have him scan it and reset the light so I at least could see what it would be like with not timing being pulled (before I take off the intake tomorrow). I couldn't really see what the timing was reading over his shoulder, but he was saying the spark was reading 13-14ish degrees at idle and was going up to 42ish around 1700 rpms. And every time it got to 1700 rpms for a couple seconds it would throw the p0327 code. He was thinking I was maybe getting spark knock, since I installed new plugs and wires the same day I washed my engine and soaked the sensor. Thinking maybe the NGK plugs I got are too hot for my car. I don't know if that sounds reasonable, (you guys can put your input in) but it sorta did to me, since I had done both at the same time, soaked sensor and installed NGK plugs.

    So I went and bought some AC Delco Rapid Fire Iridiums which I'll put in first once the car cools down......then if that doesn't fix it, I'll worry about taking off the intake the rest of this weekend, just in case some water/oil got left underneath there and killed some new sensors. I've already seen so many stories on here of guys changing KS's multiple times before fixing the problem, it wouldn't surprise me if that's the case.

    p.s. 2-3 weeks ago, heading to work....i was in D....then put in to D w/ overdrive (like I've done many times before when I'm done merging) and there was one big backfire as the shift happened. And yesterday, when I had my wife start the car with me looking underneath it for any spark jumping/loose wire or plug........there was a noticeable pop or backfire upon ignition then too. The ticking is very noticeable at idle outside the car of passenger side.
    Last edited by PhantomHaZe; 07-08-2010 at 02:37 PM.

  2. #42
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=And yesterday, when I had my wife start the car with me looking underneath it for any spark jumping/loose wire or plug........there was a noticeable pop or backfire upon ignition then too. The ticking is very noticeable at idle outside the car of passenger side.[/QUOTE]

    I will give the plugs a try. Make sure that you check the wires again with a meter. Sometimes the break when you pull them out. Use some di electric grease when you put them back. Hopefully thats it man. If not take the intake out. good luck.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 07-09-2010 at 03:53 AM.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by JayTA98 View Post
    I will give the plugs a try. Make sure that you check the wores again with a meter. Sometimes the break when you pull them out. Use some di electric grease when you put them back. Hopefully thats it man. If not take the intake out. good luck.
    Thanks Jay. I'll report back, hopefully with some success.

  4. #44
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    [QUOTE=PhantomHaZe;2380582]I don't really know what spark knock sounds like to be honest. QUOTE]

    Hard to describe, sounds like a intense rattle or ping.

    Funny thing is I scanned my 98 today and got a P0327, lol. But I think I caused it when I cleaned the throttle body and had the MAF off to clean it.
    P0327

  5. #45
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    [quote=Blksnshn;2381242]
    Quote Originally Posted by PhantomHaZe View Post
    I don't really know what spark knock sounds like to be honest. QUOTE]

    Hard to describe, sounds like a intense rattle or ping.

    Funny thing is I scanned my 98 today and got a P0327, lol. But I think I caused it when I cleaned the throttle body and had the MAF off to clean it.
    P0327
    I'm about ready to shoot p0327 too, haha.

    I just went and bought one new sensor from the dealership today. Guy actually gave me a deal on it because of the troubles i've had. $55 instead of $73.

    I think I'm going to attempt the intake first. See if there moisture back in there. I'll take out the foam inserts too. That's one think I don't think they did last time. Hopefully sensor is rusted and I solve my problems. Then I'll worry about changing plugs afterwards. If another new sensor is all that's needed then I'll probably keep the ngk's in and save the rapid fire's for another time.

    By he way everyone. Ls1tech.com has a lot of good threads on p0327 code and other knock sensor codes. I found about 3 right away that points to people havingto do multiple replacements to get the fix.
    Last edited by PhantomHaZe; 07-09-2010 at 10:37 AM.

  6. #46
    Senior Member JayTA98's Avatar
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    just check the wires that are not frayed or shorting out and may had cause your new sensors to take a dump. Check for moisture inside the plugs too. You will get there man and you will conquer this problem.

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    I pulled the intake tonight. Took me a couple hours. I'm mechanically inclined, but I guess I just take my time too much, making sure I'm doing things right and also learning in my head along the way I suppose. There were a few more hoses and wire braces/brackets than I thought there would be....and more than the write up mentions. Like the two vacuum lines on the EVAP for example. Oh well.

    I'm pretty sure I didn't break the oil sending unit. And funny thing is, I actually disconnected that sensor plug before doing the one I was supposed to at the back of the intake.

    Back to the knock sensors. I ran out of time to check and see if the front one was soaked or rusty. Since I had the shop do it a few weeks ago already...they performed the RTV dam. And they seriously RTV'd the crap out of both sensors. Not a neat little circle/horseshoe. Also, I can't tell if it's enough to short a wire....but there is an area on the green wiring going right up to the sensor that looks like it could be possibly pinched. Hard to tell though. Just looks like there is a couple small flattened spots.

    Tomorrow, I'll work on testing the wires and digging out that sensor from the RTV bomb that blew up on top of it.

  8. #48
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    Well it's all said it done. Found the culprit. It was exactly what I thought it was. The shop didn't get all the moisture out of the KS hole before they sealed the new sensor. As soon as I pulled up the grommet, there was water beads. Completely rusted new sensor and some water sitting in the thread hole.

    I sprayed a bunch of intake cleaner in there, sucked it all out with a shop vac like crazy and soaked the rest up with paper towels. Installed new sensor, put everything back together and the light is gone and she pulls harder than I ever known. It's great!

    It took at little bit at start up to get the fuel going back to the engine. It sputtered for a few minutes here and there before it idled and drove fine.

    The ticking seemed to be still present on my way to work today. But on the way home and back at home, it seemed less so. Although still there, it seemed to be more just like noisy belts etc. Maybe the timing being off before had something to do with the ticking.

    p.s. the shop told me to keep them updated, so I'm going to let them though they didn't do such a great job at cleaning up water before installing the new one....I would think I'm owed some compensation.
    Last edited by PhantomHaZe; 07-13-2010 at 05:09 PM.

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    Glad to hear you got it all taken care of. If that was my shop, I would fully refund your money and dock it from the tech that didn't do the job correctly. I know when I screwed something up I always had to fix it without pay. You should bring them the rusty sensors for proof.

  10. #50
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    after it rains pop the hood and make sure your gasket on the cowl isn't leaking and letting water in there. Even if they didn't get all the water out of there the first time the heat from the engine should've taken care of what was left. Sounds to me like you're still getting water in there somehow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    after it rains pop the hood and make sure your gasket on the cowl isn't leaking and letting water in there. Even if they didn't get all the water out of there the first time the heat from the engine should've taken care of what was left. Sounds to me like you're still getting water in there somehow.
    Yes, good advice. Possibly the Silicone damn they built wasn't good enough to hold the water out? I think I read earlier that it didn't look so great.

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    glad to hear you found it man. Are you sure the shop installed new sensor? or used ones? I kinda of agree with orion there shouldn't be much water in there. Make sure you redo the silicone dam if you didn't and did you noticed if the foam strips glued to the intake were intact? This helps avoid water to get in.

    If you have the coolant pipes and not the plugs... could it be leaking? When I swaped my intake my coolant pipes were kinda rusted. I still reused them and just shaved the plastic of the LS6 intake but it could cause an issue if you still get liqiud in there. Just something to think about if you still see liquid in there in the future. Good job

  13. #53
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    All those are a possibility, but not likely in my situation. The rear sensor was and is still fine....that would of been affected if the cowl seal was bad. The RTV job was above and beyond what was needed. Completely sealed. As soon as I popped the grommet open you could feel the pressure release and the water beads on the inside. Which says to me...they left a little bit inside before they sealed it. It was a brand new sensor too. I gave them two new ones before the job.

    Nothing they did on purpose. They just simply messed up.

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    got any pics of that rusty sensor. I'm just curious to see it.

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    Thumbs up

    I hate to even suggest this but that sensor looks like its been in there longer than a few weeks...like they didn't replace it. But maybe not, that white plastic connector looks brand new. It would look yellowish if was really old.(thinking out loud)
    I guess I'm just surprised it rusted up that bad that quickly. But it definitely looks like that was the problem!

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    Yeah. They were very surprised as well. I took it there today to show them. They didn't even bring up anything about compensation though. The manager took me back to the guy that did it and we conversed about it for about 15 min. They both couldn't believe how rusted it got in a few weeks.


    I still think there was some sort of moisture left in there and when he sealed it up tight, none of it got out and did this somehow. Who knows though. I can't really call out the guy. He was as shocked as anybody.

    One guy that walked by was calling bull on it at first....he's like "no way!" ......"tell that guy to stop washing his engine so much." Then they were like, "he's right here, and he hasn't." He quickly changed his tone and asked who took it out. I told him I did....and he goes...."oh, good job."
    Last edited by PhantomHaZe; 07-14-2010 at 07:12 PM.

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    I guess chalk this one up to shit happens, replace it and move on and don't look back.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by PhantomHaZe View Post
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    I agree that sensor was not replaced. If it was they used an old sensor. It really amazes me that some shops takes the chance of doing stuff like that and then had situations like this arise. You should at least had gotten some compensation. At the end is a loss for you money wise but is more for the shop because I doubt that you will come back. not to mention that you learn so much from doing it yourself. Great job man.
    Last edited by JayTA98; 07-15-2010 at 06:34 PM.

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    Yeah, there is no way even if that thing was sitting salt water it would rust that much in three weeks. That's years of rust. That tech is lying to cover his ass.

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