Keep blowing a fuse

**bostonbruins34** · 01-24-2011, 05:52 AM

I thought I had my P0412 and P0418 troubles solved. I had a blown fuse. Put new one in, no problem. Did some errands yesterday and put about 40 miles on the car. Took the kids to school this morning, no problem. Between yesterday and today I probably turned the car off and on about 10 times. Get ready for work and just after starting it the light comes on again. Same codes, another blown fuse...I have to get it inspected this week. Any idea what could keep popping the fuse??

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 07:01 AM

What circuits and/or vehicle systems are covered by that fuse? You may need to look each one over for damaged wiring. Could also be a defective component that is drawing higher amps than normal that is popping it.

**KMdef9** · 01-24-2011, 07:13 AM

Are you sure you have the rigt size fuse?

Depending on what it's for, you could try a larger fuse, but after you take pajeffs advice.

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 07:23 AM

I would be afraid to stick in a larger than rated fuse. It is doing its job protecting things. Better to find the cause.

**bostonbruins34** · 01-24-2011, 08:29 AM

It is the fuse for the AIR system. It is a 30 so there isn't anything higher to go to. I agree with Pajeff02 that it would be risky going to a bigger one even though I considered it just to pass inspection this week. I can only speculate that the AIR valve is sticking open or partly closed and it is blowing the fuse when it can't complete opening or closing. I just don't know what this valve looks like. I also just noticed what sounds like a small exhaust leak and wonder if they are related...Here are the codes.

P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit
P0418 Secondary Air Injection System Relay "A" Circuit

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 08:50 AM

Try this: Secondary Air: Diagnosing and Removal

**bostonbruins34** · 01-24-2011, 09:45 AM

I just read the sticky (awesome sticky BTW!) and will look at it when work is done! Thanks!

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 10:34 AM

Could be your pump motor is seized up and it's popping fuses.

**bostonbruins34** · 01-24-2011, 11:27 AM

It just seems so coincidental that it happened a few days after putting new cats on the car...silly question but would you recommend just replacing both switching valves instead of trying to figure out which one is bad if that is the case? Is it common for them to go bad?

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 12:34 PM

Originally Posted by bostonbruins34

It just seems so coincidental that it happened a few days after putting new cats on the car...silly question but would you recommend just replacing both switching valves instead of trying to figure out which one is bad if that is the case? Is it common for them to go bad?

I would run through the diagnostic before replacing anything. If it is a check valve, from a preventative maintenance standpoint, yes I would replace both.

**JayTA98** · 01-24-2011, 02:48 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I would run through the diagnostic before replacing anything. If it is a check valve, from a preventative maintenance standpoint, yes I would replace both.

yes i used to have the valves and they go bad frecuently. They get stuck. You can remove the rubber hose part and take the valve with the pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold out. Spray some TB cleaner and put them back. they might work for a while but eventually get stuck again. I don't think the valves will cause the fuse to blow. My fuse never blew when I had issues with the valves. If you don't need to get car inspected I will follow the write up that Pajeff02 gave you and get rid of the whole AIR system. If you need it them is most likely a pump issue. You will need the block off plates. You can make those from a blank electrical box cover. i will suggest if you go that route to the AIR codes and EGR deleted. I used Frost mail tune and I got this taken care off plus alot more.

Check the wiring going to the pump and make sure is not rubbing against something. If the wiring is good the pump is going bad. I just sold my pump on ebay for $20 bucks...

**bostonbruins34** · 01-24-2011, 05:14 PM

I took off the hose going into the air lid and it barely pushed any air out so I'm thinking it is the air pump...I'm thinking about Frost tune but can't be without a car for a few days .

**pajeff02** · 01-24-2011, 05:16 PM

Originally Posted by bostonbruins34

I took off the hose going into the air lid and it barely pushed any air out so I'm thinking it is the air pump...I'm thinking about Frost tune but can't be without a car for a few days .

I believe he now has a swap program in effect so that your down time is only as long as it takes you to change out the PCM.

**JayTA98** · 01-24-2011, 05:35 PM

Originally Posted by bostonbruins34

I took off the hose going into the air lid and it barely pushed any air out so I'm thinking it is the air pump...I'm thinking about Frost tune but can't be without a car for a few days .

Yup he is pretty quick. Just overnight it to him. Im telling you is well worth it.

**bostonbruins34** · 02-11-2011, 03:25 AM

Just got the PCM back from Frost yesterday. Bam...no SES light for the AIR system! Problem solved. I just wish I heard about Frost before I replaced my rear O2 sensors. They were almost as much as the tune. The return shipping was expensive ($41) but fast. I overnighted it on Tuesday, he got it Wednesday morning and shipped it back the same day. Got it Thursday before 3 pm.