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Just picked up a new rack, PS flush?

This is a discussion on Just picked up a new rack, PS flush? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; My steering has been feeling a bit off, so after some testing I noticed the rack is leaking at the ...

  1. #1
    Member Sas's Avatar
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    Just picked up a new rack, PS flush?

    My steering has been feeling a bit off, so after some testing I noticed the rack is leaking at the boots and starting to click 3 times when the wheels are fully turned one way, then a slight slurping sounds when turned the other way. My new rack came in yesterday and I've never flushed a p/s system before, so I was hoping for some guidance from some of the guru's here. My current fluid is slightly green, so I'm about 90% sure that means it's time to flush and add new. What line should I unhook to flush it off of? Also, someone overloaded my shop lift, so sadly it looks like I'll have to do this off a floor jack rather then in the air. Is it going to be more of a pain off the floor, or should I hold off for a couple weeks until my buddies lift is free'd up? I've been searching around the forums this morning and can't seem to find much about p/s flush.

  2. #2
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Get a turkey baser and suck out as much fluid you can form the reservoir, when you disconnect the hoses from the R&P it will drain the rest out. What little fluid is left in the pump won't matter much.


    If you're not sure how to replace the R&P let me know, I just did this last month.

    Couple of tips:

    Your biggest PITA is going to be the R&P mounting bolts. You'll need to remove the drivers side engine mount, loosen the passenger side and lift the engine on the drivers side up by a couple of inches. After the drivers side bolt is removed, lower the block and reinstall the engine mount bolts. When you go to reinstall them flip them, by this I mean nut on top and bolt through the bottom. (I did this before installing my motor back in because I knew at some point I would have to swap out the R&P, so glad I did.) You'll never have to lift your block again to get the drivers side again. If worried about the nut backing off use a dab of Blue Loctite.

    Get new o rings for the high & low pressure hoses that connect to the R&P. Cheat insurance to replace, hate to see you have a leak because of a 60 cent o ring.

    When you go to install the R&P, install the passenger side bolt (Remember thru the bottom, nut on top) loosely. Now hook up the steering linkage, there is a notch on the tip of the linkage that you must orientate the mounting bolt to in order to install correctly. Turn the R&P to meet the linkage. I used the old one (R&P) to get it close enough so that it's not to far off. This is to keep you steering wheel in the correct alignment in regards to your wheels. You may need a 2nd person to hold the steering wheel in correct position. Once the steering linkage is installed now install the drivers side mounting bolt and continue with the install.
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 07-25-2016 at 06:45 AM.
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  3. #3
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    I perform the turkey baster flush on our cars from time to time and it does work well. You may use a little more fluid with this method but it does also get a good portion of the old nasty stuff out of the rack.
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    She Moderator KahanaReef's Avatar
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    When I first bought my car, I was having power steering issues. It felt like I had next to no power steering. I wanted all the old nasty fluid flushed out so I took it in and had it mechanically power flushed and has worked like new ever since.
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  5. #5
    Senior Member Whamhammer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Get a turkey baser and suck out as much fluid you can form the reservoir, when you disconnect the hoses from the R&P it will drain the rest out. What little fluid is left in the pump won't matter much.


    If you're not sure how to replace the R&P let me know, I just did this last month.

    Couple of tips:

    Your biggest PITA is going to be the R&P mounting bolts. You'll need to remove the drivers side engine mount, loosen the passenger side and lift the engine on the drivers side up by a couple of inches. After the drivers side bolt is removed, lower the block and reinstall the engine mount bolts. When you go to reinstall them flip them, by this I mean nut on top and bolt through the bottom. (I did this before installing my motor back in because I knew at some point I would have to swap out the R&P, so glad I did.) You'll never have to lift your block again to get the drivers side again. If worried about the nut backing off use a dab of Blue Loctite.

    Get new o rings for the high & low pressure hoses that connect to the R&P. Cheat insurance to replace, hate to see you have a leak because of a 60 cent o ring.

    When you go to install the R&P, install the passenger side bolt (Remember thru the bottom, nut on top) loosely. Now hook up the steering linkage, there is a notch on the tip of the linkage that you must orientate the mounting bolt to in order to install correctly. Turn the R&P to meet the linkage. I used the old one (R&P) to get it close enough so that it's not to far off. This is to keep you steering wheel in the correct alignment in regards to your wheels. You may need a 2nd person to hold the steering wheel in correct position. Once the steering linkage is installed now install the drivers side mounting bolt and continue with the install.
    Honestly, with the mileage and age that most of these cars have, if i replaced my R&P, I'd replace the PS hoses as well, better to get them out of the way before they go bad and cause a problem.

    This last winter, I had a "self-flushing" PS system when the return hose sprung a leak, it was a cheap fix but it would have been even cheaper if it had been done during a theoretical PS rack replacement, a pressure hose wouldve been much worse.
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  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    When I did mine in June I replaced both as well.
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  7. #7
    Member Sas's Avatar
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    Thanks for the info guys, I'm hoping to have a lift free'd up to get started on this this weekend or next. Luckily the tire shop tightened my lugs down to tight for me to start on this last Sunday like I planned, otherwise I wouldn't have picked up the extra O rings or line. I just replaced my high pressure line last year, so I'm hoping it should still be good.

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