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Jack it up

This is a discussion on Jack it up within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Okay, another silly question. I'm new to F-Bodies, so, how do you guys jack it up? I've got a standard ...

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    2001 CAMARO SS / Black
    2009 COLORADO V8/dk gray

    Jack it up

    Okay, another silly question. I'm new to F-Bodies, so, how do you guys jack it up? I've got a standard Craftsman 2 1/2 T floor jack, but straight in from the front to hit the lift point under the engine, the handle hits the front air dam and can't get a stroke to jack it up? I read about first rolling the front wheels onto wood blocks. Is that the trick? Any and all pointers will be appreciated. Thanks.

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    Yep, drive it up on blocks and then jack it under the k-member. If that does not work, you can jack it on the sides. Behind the front tires look under the car and you will see the "frame rail" of the unibody. There is a large flat area near the front that is the lifting point.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    I drive mine up on wood blocks first also. I cut (2) 2X8's that are about a foot length each and just drive up onto them for oil changes and other maintenance needs. Gets the car up just enough for me to get my jack under it without hitting the car at all while engaging the handle.

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    I have to use boards to get the Trans Am on the trailer too.

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    The suggestions from the guys above are all good ones and good spots.

    What ever you do, don't jack below the quarter panels where the front fender (3 bolt flange) meets the unibody flange in front of the rocker panel.

    The flange will smash and the fender could tear across the flange.

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    Sold: LS1 '85 El Camino ls1camino's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    The suggestions from the guys above are all good ones and good spots.

    What ever you do, don't jack below the quarter panels where the front fender (3 bolt flange) meets the unibody flange in front of the rocker panel.

    The flange will smash and the fender could tear across the flange.
    I had a guy at Ft. Meade's Auto Shop tell me I should put the lift arms at the place instead of on the frame rails. I told him he was wrong and it would mess the car up if I did that. He stormed off and told the shop helpers that I was in danger of the car falling on me. One came running over to see what I was doing, and laughed when I told him what happened.

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    Electrical Engineer KMdef9's Avatar
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    Get some 3pt sub frame connectors and you'll have tons of places to jack it up!

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    Thanks guys. As always, good help and advice from the forum. Not time for an oil change yet, but I did jack it from the side to install skip shift. I would like to do a full front end lift to jack stands...just to look around under there, so your help is appreciated.

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    Smiles for 9.5 Years cammed goat's Avatar
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    Whether it's my car or a customer's car, I either use wood blocks to jack/hoist up a car and I use the jacking points. I don't want to damage the vehicle I am working on.

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    ʢ ൧ ൨ ൩ ൪ ൫ ൬ ൭ ൮Ր Ց Ւ Փ Smittro's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ls1camino View Post
    I had a guy at Ft. Meade's Auto Shop tell me I should put the lift arms at the place instead of on the frame rails. I told him he was wrong and it would mess the car up if I did that. He stormed off and told the shop helpers that I was in danger of the car falling on me. One came running over to see what I was doing, and laughed when I told him what happened.
    I'd say 90%+ of the time if you see a 4th gen with front fender quarters gapped largely away from the rockers and the lower corners of the doors it's been improperly jacked.

    Many people think all unibody cars are generally the same, such as FWD cars where that area is a jack point on alot of W-J bodied Gm's and so forth.

    Where as that area is reenforced for jacking on many FWD cars, the flange can be damaged or even break off on the 93-02 f-body.

    Birds and Camaro both.

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    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    I have a pair of Race Ramps that have a long ramp that gradually gains height. They slide right under most cars with lowered suspensions. If I need more height then it's a piece of cake to get a jack under when my car is on the ramps and raise it higher to put jack stands under etc. Works for both ends, no problem.
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    2001 3.8 Black - sold
    2000 SS Black M6

    my fenders are flared out.....previous owner....

    I dont use blocks, i have a low profile jack that can reach the subframes, i lift one side at a time, then put a jack stand under the k member, where the lower control arms attach.....or on the subframe itself, depending on what Im doing

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Some people are lucky enough to have a lift in their garage. Those lucky SOB's

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    You may use it any time you want, Jon.

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    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    My next house will have one!
    It's on jackstands.

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    Former Mopar Man 2002ssslp's Avatar
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    A good quality set of ramps will also work well.

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    Member Since 1998 Mecinoid's Avatar
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    Lifting / Ramps

    Quote Originally Posted by 2002ssslp View Post
    A good quality set of ramps will also work well.
    Key word good quality. I bought a set of harbor freight plastic low profile ramps thinking they would work on my Vette and F-Bird. As soon as I trying to drive on them they shoot out from under my wheels. They have a place to run a anchor bolt throught them but, I don't want to drill holes in my garage. Plus, I think the pressure on that bolt hole would bust it out over time. Therefore I stay with my metal ramps with plastic extension for driving up lowered cars on them. They are heavy and a little harder to set up .... But, I feel a lot safer trying to drive up on them.

    I think the big idea here is the smooth concrete floor I have in the garage. If I was to use the plastic ramps in the street it might be OK. Unfortunately, I have to work in the garage as we're not allowed to work on our cars in the street without getting a ticket.

    I temporary got around this by jacking my car up and sliding the ramps under the wheels and then lowering the jack since my metal ramps were not around. It was secure .... I just didn't dare to drive off of them. ;-)

    Good luck...

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    One way to hold ramps in place is to butt a pair of equal length 2" x 6"s up against the front wall of the garage and place your ramps against them. This will keep the ramps from sliding forward as your wheel transitions from the floor to the ramp.

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    Member Redrokit8's Avatar
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    I posted earlier that I use RaceRamps. They are an injected molded material that almost feels like Styrofoam, very light weight. Very easy to move around. They have a rough surface on the bottoms and have not slipped on my smooth cement flooring. They are also two piece which allows you to use just the initial piece to get the car high enough to comfortably get your floor jack under and positioned. A lot of exotic car repair shops have them to initially raise the ultra low cars initially.
    Just Google RaceRamps and check them out.

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    I looked at a set of Race Ramps for my car trailer -- they are a bit pricey.

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