Intermittent grinding noise Wheel Bearing or Joint?

[florida4thgen]

Having a weird one here, it makes a very feint intermittent grinding noise when turning the car right at high speeds, only does it if I turn the wheel more than 10 degrees on the highway, otherwise it doesn't make any sound, I can turn right some without it making a grinding sound but soon as I get it over that 10 degrees and if I am over say 45+ mph is when it hits. Searched the forums and things I have found have similar issues but not the same. I did a test this morning on the way to work, purposely did a hard right at high speed and a very pronounced grind and clunk happened.

To check the wheel bearing you jack the problem side up and pull the wheel out or try to move it side to side?

Thanks

[pajeff02]

You can usually detect a bad bearing at lower speeds. Like you said, when it starts to howl in turns it is generally the wheel under load making the noise. Putting the car in the air and checking for play is a good first step. Check it both up and down and side to side. This will help you differentiate between slack in the steering system and suspension system (if any) that can also cause movement. Sounds can be tricky to track down - the last wheel bearing I had go was on our Suburban. Could have sworn it was the front driver side making noise, but it actually turned out to be the passenger side front.

[2002ssslp]

How old are the bearings and when was the last time you serviced them. If you can't remember then you are due to replace them.

[florida4thgen]

Im going to guess pretty old I have had the car since February and haven't done anything to them, pardon my ignorance how do you service wheel bearings?

[florida4thgen]

never mind google is a wonderful thing

[pajeff02]

There is really no service to them. They either work or don't work and when they let go you replace them. Sooner, rather than later of course.

[florida4thgen]

Sorry it is so late replying and closing the thread out, Found out what it was, the outer tie rod end boot had split in half, wasn't that hard to change out just get an alignment afterwards,20140316_173529.jpg

Guide for changing it

1. Jack up car put it on jack stands (safety first)

2. Remove wheel or wheels

3. I turned the wheel to the one I was working on so I had easier access.

4. If the tie rod has a cotter pin, bend it to where its straight and pull it out of the castle nut.

5. I believe the castle nut is a 15mm but don't quote me on it, remove the castle nut.

6. I used a rubber mallet to tap around the connection of the tie rod to loosen it and then slide it out from the wheel frame.

7. Loosen the retaining bolt behind the outer tie rod

8. This is the most important step. Unscrew the outer tie rod assembly and count how many turns it takes to come off.

9. From there take your new outer tie rod and screw it back on the same amount of turns it took for the old one to come off. (This ensures that when your done you don't have a completely wacked out alignment you need to still get it aligned after your done.)

10. Thread the outer tie rod through wheel frame

11. Thread the new castle nut on and tighten it down.

12. Insert the new cotter pin through the castle nut and wrap it around the nut

13. Insert grease fitting and use grease gun to put in grease.

finished.jpg

Finished project,

Hope this helps someone

[pajeff02]

Interesting. Not what I would have guessed from the symptoms you described.

[florida4thgen]

Who knows might have described it wrong but I just drove 300 miles and not so much of a peep so it definitely fixed it

[pajeff02]

As long as the noise is gone, that's all that matters. Nice work!

[0rion]

check your brake pads first....

[Too Fast]

Glad your noise is gone, but I've never heard a tie rod make a noise like you described in your original post. Sometimes they squeak, with suspension movement or when turning, but that is usually a Ford or Chrysler product and rarely a GM.

I would sure look at the wheel bearing/hub assembly first. Diagnosing on the internet is tricky.