View Poll Results: What Oil Do You Use

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  • Synthetic

    424 87.06%
  • Dino

    40 8.21%
  • Blended dino/synthetic off the shelf

    17 3.49%
  • I mix my own

    6 1.23%
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I'm a Oil Junkie

This is a discussion on I'm a Oil Junkie within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Ricardo 10k miles??? = must have lower quality break-in oi? = must do a proper brake in ...

  1. #881

    Post "low quality"

    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardo View Post
    10k miles??? = must have lower quality break-in oi? = must do a proper brake in with.... a low quality (woo ) Mobil 1 API SM oil... and ride normaly without redling during another 10 k
    For the most part, minus the myths, it's been widely accepted that synthetic motor oil can be used from the very beginning of engine life. This is backed up by the fact that many new vehicles come new with synthetic motor oil as factory fill.

    Now if we are talking 60s and 70s era muscle cars with flat-tappet camshafts, it's been reported by some reliable sources, and I haven't seen this data, it's beneficial to break-in flat-tappet cams with a high zinc conventional motor oil break-in period before using synthetic oils.

    Also, I wouldn't consider Mobil 1 to be low quality even though there are some brands that return better UOAs. Further, API (SM) rated oils have a tough testing seqence they must pass.

    Unless you're buying the $0.98 cent Accent brand (non API SM rated) motor oil from the local big box store, it's hard to get a true "low quality" motor oil these days.

    Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.

  2. #882
    Member blackcar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by CompSyn View Post
    Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.
    When you compare 'em to Amsoil there all low quality.
























    Do I get my FREE stuff now??

  3. #883
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    Quote Originally Posted by CompSyn View Post
    For the most part, minus the myths, it's been widely accepted that synthetic motor oil can be used from the very beginning of engine life. This is backed up by the fact that many new vehicles come new with synthetic motor oil as factory fill.

    Now if we are talking 60s and 70s era muscle cars with flat-tappet camshafts, it's been reported by some reliable sources, and I haven't seen this data, it's beneficial to break-in flat-tappet cams with a high zinc conventional motor oil break-in period before using synthetic oils.

    Also, I wouldn't consider Mobil 1 to be low quality even though there are some brands that return better UOAs. Further, API (SM) rated oils have a tough testing seqence they must pass.

    Unless you're buying the $0.98 cent Accent brand (non API SM rated) motor oil from the local big box store, it's hard to get a true "low quality" motor oil these days.

    Rather than saying low quality, I'd say that some brands have returned better UOAs as shown in this thread.
    ok i see.. so let me clarify why i said that

    generically

    the factory synthetic means... a guy buys a car to work all over the country... in 2 years he can do 50000 Km with that oil... with no problems.. driving in highway all the time, the aditives make the oil so stable that it lasts longer
    within this... M1 0W40 is known ironicaly as mobil's best 5w30 oil-- it brakes down after 3k miles or 5k km

    and this is european perspective - how i live it

    mobil 1 (0w40) as low quality oil means .. to me my experience
    low quality means a oil that is defective in lubricating a undersquared engine... where the loss of power is evident, to me indicates optimal lubrication not present.

    my experience is limited to seeing the reactions of a 90mm stroke engine to that oil... its very sensitive to the oil ... i read a lot in the net and looked at a few UAO's. So any change in the oil i easily noticed. Noise, output, level drop, color, start-up noises. All that changes noticeably when the oil changes.

    Now.. You guys have V6 V8 etc... thats a difierent story. Much more forgiving. Mobil 1 can lubricate that type of engines a lot easier. Engines are very smooth inside. Thats why you can - after all - use much thiner oils nnW20 or nnW30. Longer roads you have too.

    Here in average-joe workshops...(southern europe) only more recently, regarding "modern" engines people started to know the engines as requiring aplications of thin W30 oil...


    about prices

    example honda' s 10w40 OEM oil self at 45eur = 4L (castrol GTX series...professional series)

    100% syntetics are very rare... only OEM oils perhaps

    GC costs 100 euro... (4L) sell best at 80 ,. few can buy it lower.. its edge 0w30 and 5w30

    any good "fully" syntetic (hidrocraked) costs 50 to 70 (5w40 or 0W40) total cepsa BP

    M1 = 45 its the cheapst of the fully syntetics

    semi-syntetics (10w40) cost average 30 to 50

    then minerals go from 19 to 30 (10W40) (15W40) (20w50)

    THE cheapest oils cost 3,5 .
    that cheap oil.. .can give us lots of easily burned and evaporated oil, but not that hard gunky sludged oil as the bigger V-engines are more prune to suffer from.

  4. #884
    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    royal purple sythetic in the t/a

  5. #885
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehawk2000 View Post
    royal purple synthetic in the t/a
    WalMart SuperTech Synthetic returns better wear numbers than Royal Purple. Seriously.

  6. #886
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ricardo View Post
    ok i see.. so let me clarify why i said that

    generically

    the factory synthetic means... a guy buys a car to work all over the country... in 2 years he can do 50000 Km with that oil... with no problems.. driving in highway all the time, the aditives make the oil so stable that it lasts longer
    within this... M1 0W40 is known ironicaly as mobil's best 5w30 oil-- it brakes down after 3k miles or 5k km

    and this is european perspective - how i live it

    mobil 1 (0w40) as low quality oil means .. to me my experience
    low quality means a oil that is defective in lubricating a undersquared engine... where the loss of power is evident, to me indicates optimal lubrication not present.

    my experience is limited to seeing the reactions of a 90mm stroke engine to that oil... its very sensitive to the oil ... i read a lot in the net and looked at a few UAO's. So any change in the oil i easily noticed. Noise, output, level drop, color, start-up noises. All that changes noticeably when the oil changes.

    Now.. You guys have V6 V8 etc... thats a difierent story. Much more forgiving. Mobil 1 can lubricate that type of engines a lot easier. Engines are very smooth inside. Thats why you can - after all - use much thiner oils nnW20 or nnW30. Longer roads you have too.

    Here in average-joe workshops...(southern europe) only more recently, regarding "modern" engines people started to know the engines as requiring aplications of thin W30 oil...


    about prices

    example honda' s 10w40 OEM oil self at 45eur = 4L (castrol GTX series...professional series)

    100% syntetics are very rare... only OEM oils perhaps

    GC costs 100 euro... (4L) sell best at 80 ,. few can buy it lower.. its edge 0w30 and 5w30

    any good "fully" syntetic (hidrocraked) costs 50 to 70 (5w40 or 0W40) total cepsa BP

    M1 = 45 its the cheapst of the fully syntetics

    semi-syntetics (10w40) cost average 30 to 50

    then minerals go from 19 to 30 (10W40) (15W40) (20w50)

    THE cheapest oils cost 3,5 .
    that cheap oil.. .can give us lots of easily burned and evaporated oil, but not that hard gunky sludged oil as the bigger V-engines are more prune to suffer from.
    I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.

  7. #887
    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    WalMart SuperTech Synthetic returns better wear numbers than Royal Purple. Seriously.
    really where did you find this information at?

  8. #888
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehawk2000 View Post
    really where did you find this information at?

  9. #889
    Senior Member bluehawk2000's Avatar
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    your a genius but that doesnt help at all, the source of the information where I can find it you know, so I can read it.

  10. #890
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    Quote Originally Posted by bluehawk2000 View Post
    your a genius but that doesnt help at all, the source of the information where I can find it you know, so I can read it.
    The first 44 pages of this, or the UOA's sticky.

  11. #891
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    thanks

  12. #892
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    Hey Sarge. how much oil consumption is normal for a new motor. i have gone 3k on my new setup and its about 3/4 of a quart. i have a catch can and the PCV mod. any ideas? Also this is the first 3k oil change on the motor. it only has 4k on it. Thanks

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  13. #893
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    i have a question. And please bear with me, if its a dumb one i appologize. But would running a full syn 5-40w be to thick for me? I have a basically stock LS1. Just wondering if the Schaeffers supreme 9000 5-40w would be too much. If so should i just stick with the supreme 7000 10-30w? Is there no need to run the 5-30w?

  14. #894
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    Amsoil vs. Edge

    http://sz0158.ev.mail.comcast.net/se...d=35320&part=2
    I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.8,500M on Amsoil vs. 3,500M on Castrol Edge, Both 10/30.
    The UOA tells the story.

  15. #895

    Lightbulb Cant wait to see the UOA

    Quote Originally Posted by lonewolf37 View Post
    http://sz0158.ev.mail.comcast.net/se...d=35320&part=2
    I would run NO oil over 5K without a UOA to confirm wear numbers and TBN is within acceptable specs. Regardless of advertising/marketing hype.
    8,500M on Amsoil vs. 3,500M on Castrol Edge, Both 10/30.
    The UOA tells the story.

    The link for the UOA does not work...

    CompSyn

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    Sorry about that!

    I screwed up the link and Sarge's quote as well! I will work on that tonight

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    Last edited by lonewolf37; 08-31-2009 at 08:55 PM. Reason: Additional info

  18. #898

    Post Try this

    Quote Originally Posted by lonewolf37 View Post
    Still not working. Try one of these:

    If you can take a screen shot of the report on your computer and upload that image to photobucket.com, you'll have a url that you can post here.

    OR

    Copy the values from your UOAs and enter them in the fields below:

    Vehicle----------
    Engine-----------
    Trans------------
    OIL--------------
    Oil additive-----
    Make-up oil----
    Oil filter---------
    Air filter---------
    Miles on vehicle---
    Time on vehicle---

    Analysis by lab:

    WEAR METALS (PPM) Amsoil ATM / Castrol Edge
    iron-------------------
    chromium-------------
    nickel------------------
    aluminum-------------
    copper----------------
    lead-------------------
    tin---------------------
    cadmium--------------
    silver------------------
    vanadium-------------

    Contaminant Metals (PPM)
    silicon------------------
    sodium----------------
    potassium-------------

    Multi-Source Metals (PPM)
    titanium-----------------
    molybdenum-------------
    antimony-----------------
    manganese--------------
    lithium-------------------
    boron---------------------

    Additive Metals (PPM)
    magnesium----------
    calcium-------------
    barium-----------------
    phosphorus--------
    zinc-----------------

    fuel-----------------
    visc40---------------
    viscosity @ 100C
    water----------------
    soot/solids----------
    change---------------
    oxida-----------------
    nitr------------------
    TBN------------------

    CompSyn

  19. #899
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    i have just replaced the oil
    3 litres of Edge 0W30 and piston slap reduced to barely noticeable sound in cold engine and unnoticeable @ warm engine

    this is D16Z9.. 90mm stroke honda 1.6 engine ... the 125 hp s0hc engine ..

    i replaced spark plugs and air filter.. and
    hold and behold.. the new OEM made in uk honda air filter 17220-P1K-E00
    comes with the paper filter element soaked in thin oil...

    anyone ever found such a thing?
    the brand new air filter comes completely soaked in very thin oil... we can see it shinning in the tips of our fingers when we touch the "paper filter"
    another ***king unhandled exception... lol

    i am stil investigating if anything of this is normal.

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    Last edited by lonewolf37; 09-06-2009 at 03:40 PM.

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