View Poll Results: What Oil Do You Use

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  • Synthetic

    424 87.06%
  • Dino

    40 8.21%
  • Blended dino/synthetic off the shelf

    17 3.49%
  • I mix my own

    6 1.23%
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I'm a Oil Junkie

This is a discussion on I'm a Oil Junkie within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; We are all very familiar with GC. There are very good UOA's and very bad UOA's. The stuff your using ...

  1. #821
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    We are all very familiar with GC. There are very good UOA's and very bad UOA's. The stuff your using is the old SL rated stuff. Middle of the road.

  2. #822
    Member 99'CajunFirehawk157's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    We are all very familiar with GC. There are very good UOA's and very bad UOA's. The stuff your using is the old SL rated stuff. Middle of the road.
    It was just a rebuttal to his generic "I am not going to use any castrol in my engine".....its simple: we all have oils that we use and love for one reason or the other, NONE of these oils is 100% perfect but the big fact remains, the majority of the oils on the shelves today are good enough to use in our engines as long as we follow the guidelines and change regularly. But then again, are stock wheels good enough for us, or is turtle wax good enough for our finish, unfortunately the answer is more times than not, No.
    And so, these types of debates continues...

  3. #823
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    German Castrol has higher levels of ZDDP since it is a SL version as opposed to the newer SM oils. Not knocking PP though since it is quite good.

  4. #824
    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Havoline is good. What oil change intervals are you going to use?
    I was hitting it every 2000 miles in the z-28 regardless. Im not sure on the LS1. Probably about the same. Every long trip as well id change it when we got back. Changing oil is easy so why not do it when they say its good to, often lol.

  5. #825
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yeah short OCI's Havoline is a good application.

  6. #826
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUBL0WS6 View Post
    German Castrol has higher levels of ZDDP since it is a SL version as opposed to the newer SM oils. Not knocking PP though since it is quite good.
    Esters versus ZDDP?

  7. #827
    Stockitie Stock Stock 95camaroZNC's Avatar
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    What should i use to go with a longer oil change interval?

  8. #828

    Arrow Best bet

    Quote Originally Posted by 95camaroZNC View Post
    What should i use to go with a longer oil change interval?
    Click HERE

    CompSyn

  9. #829
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 95camaroZNC View Post
    What should i use to go with a longer oil change interval?
    Define a long OCI.......have you done a base UOA?

  10. #830
    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    I read most of the pages of this thread.
    I didn't find much on valvoline synpower. 10W30
    I've been running this since new (62K).
    The remote oil filter Sarge suggested sounds great. I don't like the little filter either.
    I live in ohio on near the Michigan line and drive my car all year when possible.
    Is Valvoline Synpower 10W30 a good oil?
    What about Bosch oil filters?

  11. #831
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yes Valvoline is very good oil. Bosch Oil Filters are made by Champion Labs (same as KN)....

  12. #832
    Senior Member Z28_Driver's Avatar
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    Sarge, is 0w30 better than 10w30, or 0w40?
    It gets down to 0 farenheit here in the winter, sometimes -10.
    what weight oil should i use in winter? Summer?
    Thanks for any help.

  13. #833
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    I would move to South Texas. Then run 10-30 year round.
    Nah....10 weight is good to -33c ( yes that is Centigrade)

  14. #834
    Senior Member Z28boy2000's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro B4C

    Sarge,
    wondering what your thoughts are on Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil
    2000 B4C Special Service Package Z28 - Kooks 1&7/8 Stepped 2'' - TSP Torquer V.2 - FAST 92/92 - BDR 4000 Conveter - Xtreme Trans Stage II - Full UMI Suspension - Pacesetter LT's - Comp Drag Shocks - Magnaflow - Cutout - ZO6 MAF - FTP LID - Street Tuned -

  15. #835
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Loads of ZDDP. Not for street use...that means no detergents.

  16. #836
    Senior Member Z28boy2000's Avatar
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    2000 Camaro B4C

    if you had to recommend 1 oil that is on shelves now what would it be

  17. #837
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Pennzoil Platinum 10-30

  18. #838
    Member jeffsWS-6's Avatar
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    Is AMSOIL worth the money and is it better then Mobil 1 Syn.?

  19. #839
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffsWS-6 View Post
    Is AMSOIL worth the money and is it better then Mobil 1 Syn.?
    Good/fair question. As with any value (perceived or real) you must qualify your purchase against your requirements. I know people who have a little bitty apartment and have a monster flat screen TV. Damn thing is so big you cannot focus on it. They needed a 36 inch or so for a much better experience and quality. But they heard/read/were told bigger is better.......they did not qualify their purchase against their requirements...same is true for motor oil.

    If you are running 3-5K oil change intervals. Do your normal Saturday night burnouts at the local Dairy Queen....If you have a stock or slightly modified (headers/CAI/tune) you can/will get excellent results with just plain conventional SM rated oil.Pennzoil/Castrol/Valvoline make excellent conventional oils. Cost $2.50+ per quart

    If you are running Nitrous/Monster Cam/Heads etc. and beat on it everytime you get in your ride then Synthetics are for you.
    If you live in a very dusty environment/ experience extremes in heat or cold (above 100f/below 0f) then synthetics are for you.

    Now lets talk "synthetics".....

    GRP III HydroCracked stuff is Mobil1/Pennzoil Platinum/Quaker State/Castrol Edge/Valvoline and some Schaeffer Oil and Amsoil products. These are excellent oils. Stout add packs and the GRPIII provides uniform molecualr structure to hold together under extremes. Cost $4-$6 bucks per quart.

    GRPIV/Esters. These are Amsoil/Shaeffers/RedLine and are the most hardy well built motor oils you can buy. Take a licking and keep on ticking. Cost $6-$12 per quart.

    So to ask is Mobil1 better than Amsoil? I dunno. Depends on what your doing. Could be all you need for excellent lubrication results is Pennzoil Yellow Bottle.

    From a UOA percpective I have seen way too many "better" results from Amsoil products than Mobil1. Pennzoil Platinum outperforms Mobil1. Consistantly.

    I will say the Amsoil XL line (GRPIII) outperforms Mobil1 consistently and is a tad lower in cost....

  20. #840
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    Re: I'm a Oil Junkie

    hello buddy how are you dear i read your comment it's great i like it dear i learn alot of things from your comment i hope everyone likes your post dear thanx for this information.

    Water

    Water is another major problem. Tar sands plants typically use two to four barrels of water to extract a barrel of oil. Currently, the water consumption is enough to sustain a city of two million people every year. And after it's been through the process, the water is toxic with contaminants, so it cannot be released into the environment. Some of it is reused, but vast amounts of it are pumped into enormous settlement ponds to be retained as toxic waste.

    These "ponds" are actually the largest bodies of water in the region--big enough to be seen from space--and some of the world's largest man-made ponds overall, with miles of surface area. It may take 200 years for the smallest particles to settle down to the bottom of this toxic brew, which also contains very high levels of heavy metals and other health-threatening elements.


    =========================
    will smith
    =========================


    Last edited by Sarge; 06-08-2009 at 07:26 AM. Reason: Link to non-sponsor

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