View Poll Results: What Oil Do You Use

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  • Synthetic

    424 87.06%
  • Dino

    40 8.21%
  • Blended dino/synthetic off the shelf

    17 3.49%
  • I mix my own

    6 1.23%
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I'm a Oil Junkie

This is a discussion on I'm a Oil Junkie within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Oil change place I go to uses Quaker State Synthetic, I've never had any problems with it, but I've read ...

  1. #181
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Oil change place I go to uses Quaker State Synthetic, I've never had any problems with it, but I've read it is in the group 3 of oils. Is Quaker crap or should I just stick with it?

    Zboner

  2. #182
    nufkts
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    Quaker is crap so is Castrol, Mobil 1 is your best bet if you go with and over the counter motor oil. But I would look in your phone book and find the Amsoil man and start using that, also an amsoil filter. You say the oil change place? If you do not have the place or the equipment and tools then let someone else change your oil, but I would want to personally know that nothing got messed up by some punk making minimun wage who does not care about your car changing your oil. But if you can't then I understand just take the oil and filter of choice with you next time and tell them this is what you would like for them to use and install on you vehicle.

  3. #183
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hurley711
    Oil change place I go to uses Quaker State Synthetic, I've never had any problems with it, but I've read it is in the group 3 of oils. Is Quaker crap or should I just stick with it?

    Zboner
    I would not stick with the Quaker State if I were you.

  4. #184
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    The place I go to is respected around here for a few reasons. They've been there FOREVER. All they do is oil changes and other fluid changes. They top off all your fluids which I like. And you stand right there 2 feet from them so you can make sure they are doing a good job. Also they have a patent on a machine which blows out all the sludge and old oil whcih sits in the bottom of the pan after it is drained, so you start with a fresh oil that doesn't get mixed with anything left in the pan. I was thinking about bringing Mobil 1 with me next time, maybe I will.

  5. #185
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    A patent on a machine that blows all the sludge out huh? You mean a patent on a machine that flushes the shit in the bottom of the pan out....I do the same thing with a quart of Havoline after I drain the oil...it is called flushing the pan...varnish and sludge build up in places no flushing will touch...but it is good marketing.....

  6. #186
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    Quote Originally Posted by nufkts
    Quaker is crap so is Castrol, Mobil 1 is your best bet if you go with and over the counter motor oil.

    Please post the voa's that you have that have led you to the conclusion that Castrol is crap.

  7. #187
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Amen Bro...Castrol is not crap at all...Mobil 1 has created some marketing zombies to talk crap though. I'll go better than a VOA...let us see some UOA's to back that up....
    Now folks...Mobil 1 is some fine stuff..but so is a lot of other oils....depends on what you got...where you drive...what kind of driving you do.....lots of caveats....
    Here...I'll play the internet blanket statement game....and I will back it up with UOA's.....
    I'll begin...Mobil 1 thins out of grade.

  8. #188
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    how about schaeffers oil?

  9. #189
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    I've heard that Mobil 1 thins out a little after a while, but it's still darn good oil, although somewhat overpriced. I used it for many years. Schaeffers evidently is great oil, from what I've seen and heard from a friend and his euro-import racer friends (and a few others), but I've never used it myself. I'm sure Sarge will chime in with more information about Schaeffers, he's seen more VOAs and UOAs than probably all of us combined.

  10. #190
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bumdroid
    how about schaeffers oil?
    Damn good stuff....the question is not which oil is the best....cuz there is no answer to that question....the question is which oil is best for me...my motor...my driving habits....OCI.....climate...geographical terrain....
    If I drive a 600 RWHP street beast every two weeks to town and back....synthetics are probably not for me....unless I change oil in that street beast twice a year....for folks who drive around normal like....getting on it every so often.....change their oil every 3-5 thousand miles....hell a good dino is just fine.....but...and that is a big but.....same folks will get better performance from a synthetic.....with the same OCI's..higher cost for sure....but will get better performance.....now the argument will be engine longevity.....who cares?
    Bottom line is....you can run a high dollar synthetic....have OCI's of 3-5K and that is no problem...you can also go mouse hunting with a shotgun....mouse is still dead and your engine is still just fine on synthetics and 3-5K OCI's.....you can also be just fine with say Havoline 10-40 dino and a .22 pistol...your engine is still fine and the mouse is still dead as hell....
    Last edited by Sarge; 11-05-2005 at 05:31 PM.

  11. #191
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge
    Amen Bro...Castrol is not crap at all...Mobil 1 has created some marketing zombies to talk crap though. I'll go better than a VOA...let us see some UOA's to back that up....

    That was gonna be my next question depending on his response. Was gonna play with him a bit....you know, he being an internet expert & all.


    BTW, I like the mouse analogy you made above....pretty funny & a point well made.

  12. #192
    We'll be back... GatorSS's Avatar
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    ...poor little mouse...but good analogy and post.

  13. #193
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Sarge---point of my post since you missed it was this. I don't change the oil myself because I don't have the time/tools needed. Most places around here drain and just dump new oil on top of the old sludge and shit. I stated that I like this place because, patent bullshit or not, at least they get all of the sludge and old shit out before adding clean oil. Point of my original post which I have one answer to is this....is Quaker State synthetic good oil or should I consider bringing my own oil next time?

  14. #194
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    If your changing your oil every 3-5K QS Synthetic is fine.....it isn't going to hurt your engine....
    I would be remiss if I failed to mention it is overpriced for a GRP 111 oil though.....
    you get much better add packs etc. with Valvoline Synthetic or Mobil 1 for the same price....

  15. #195
    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    Is it true that Quaker is a Syntetic "Blend" ...if so what is the diff.? Is it watered down synthetic for lack of a better term?

  16. #196
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    Hey Hurley....yup....you can thank Castrol for the "confusion".....and to make it worse...Mobil 1 is the one that sued them! And lost of course...so know we have yahoo's running around claiming synthetic that wouldn't even pass the synthetic smell test in Europe.....OK...I'll give it a shot.....
    MC = molecular conversion (Group II, II+, and III). "Molecular conversion" for hydrocracked base oils involves the manipulation of the feedstock (the VGO from the distiller) at the molecular level through catalytic processes which result in the destruction of aromatics, sulphur, and other impurities as well as the conversion of the wax elements into oil. The end result is a base oil with only trace levels of impurities. For wax isomerate base oils "molecular conversion" involves the conversion of the feedstock (slack wax, waxy raffinate, or other wax byproducts) into a fully saturated base oil with no detectable levels of impurities.
    The above group consist of the Valvolines, Quaker State, Castrol, Pennzoil etc. "synthetics"......I use that word loosely....
    MS = molecular synthesis (Group IV PAO, EOP, GTL and Group V esters). "Molecular synthesis" involves the polymerization of smaller feedstock molecules into more complex structures. PAO, EOP, GTL, and esters are all produced this way using various catalytic and chemical processes. In the case of PAO, EOP, and GTL the result is a chemically pure synthetic hydrocarbon base oil with zero levels of impurities. Esters are equally pure but are not synthetic hydrocarbon. This group is real synthetic oil....the likes of Mobil 1, Amsoil, Schaffers, Red Line, Royal Purple etc. are in this group.
    I know I am leaving out and avoiding a shitload of arguments here...but this is the base/gut of the synthetic debate....In Europe...only the last group can label their oil as synthetics....in the US both groups can call their stuff synthetics....when they really are not......hope I have helped and not confused you man....

  17. #197
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    mobil 1 0w40

  18. #198
    BlackHawk T/A
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    Thinking about going a little thicker next time to quiet things down...

    Sarge, i'm confused about a lot of Amsoil's products...they have multiple 10-40s, 0-40s, 10-30s, whatever...

    I thought about upping to an oil that gets thicker when hot...so 0-40 or 5-40...but am confused as to which is which? They have a few it looks like...not sure what I would go with for next oil change (next fall).

  19. #199
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yeah I know...different TBN blah blah....If you want thicker....the European 5-40 would be a great match....I have used the 10-40 High Performance with great results also....the EU 5-40 has a significant add pack....

  20. #200
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    Would 0-40 mobil 1...be ok for my LT1...with winter comming up.
    I found it at an R&S strauss over here or should I use another weight?

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