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i want to start ordering parts.

This is a discussion on i want to start ordering parts. within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; so i want to do head and cam, torque converter, and a new rear end. i have a couple of ...

  1. #1
    Member slpdablueZ28's Avatar
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    2002 Camaro Z28

    i want to start ordering parts.

    so i want to do head and cam, torque converter, and a new rear end. i have a couple of questions about some of the specifics that they have when placing the order. im going to get the texas speed 228R - 114 lsa 228/228 588/588. with their head package. Precision Race Components 5.3L Stage 2.5 Cylinder Heads Fully CNC Ported & Assembled With Stainless Steel 2.02" Intake Valves, 1.575" Exhaust Valves, & PRC Dual Valve Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers. Kit Also Includes TSP Hardened Pushrods
    Q1. what should i use for pushrod length? 7.400 being the suggested standard
    Q2. do i need to get the timing chain? if so which one double roller or single?
    Q3. will i need a new oil pump?
    Q4. wats the difference between the deluxe gaskets and the basic?

    Now for a torque converter i see on their site they have Precision Industries Vigilante Lock-Up Converter. I was thinking about running a 3000 stall.
    Q1. theres a couple choices: 2004R, 4L60E, 4L70E, 4L80E, 700R4. wat are these?
    Q2. a single disc lock up is ok or triple disc?
    Q3. is there a better/cheaper brand i should look at?

    For a rear end i want to do a moser 9" with 3.73, well actually on texas speed they have a 3.70 so i guess ill take that.
    Q. theres a lot of options for this thing and im not sure which i should get. if someone could please recommend wat to get on this page i would appreciate it http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...mid=61&catid=6


    Is my project drivable with that h/c swap, 3000 stall and rear end? i might throw in some pacesetters too to get rid or the slp headers. any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks guys!

  2. #2
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    06 duramax

    I'll try to hit all of these

    Series A
    1. get stock length pushrods (7.400)
    2. yes, do a chain but not the whole gear set. LS2 chain ~$40
    3 yes, do a ported ls6 pump. Not completely necessary but it should be.
    4. I'm not sure on this one although my money would be that deluxe are MLS gaskets and basic gaskets are graphite. Do the MLS gaskets if you ever think you'll have the heads off again.

    series B
    1. Those are types of transmissions....you have a 4L60E
    2. I run the same heads/cam set up you have with a Fuddle single disc but if you want to dyno the car with the stall locked I would get the triple. I would get the triple anyhow if you have the cash for it.
    3. There are cheaper but that Vig. is a pretty damn good convertor. If you have the money get it. I would go bigger though. I run a 3500 in mine. I would at least look at a 3200-3400 at a minimum.

    series C
    I would get a 12 bolt since you're an auto and it'll be a direct bolt in. I went with a strange 12 bolt and it even came with fluid in it. Direct bolt in. The strange uses the same style mounts for the torque arm instead of 4 smaller bolts like the moser 12 bolt uses. The moser bolts are known to back out.


    I think your set up would be very drivable. Same set up I have. The key is getting a decent tune in there. A quality tune will make all the difference.

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    Member slpdablueZ28's Avatar
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    hey orion thanks for chiming in i hoped u would. so ls2 chain and the ls2 oil pump should be on the list. what would be the difference between the lock ups? and wat would be the benefits of running the higher stall?

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    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    ALWAYS measure for pushrod length. Always.
    7.410 would probably be best, but depending on lifters, base circle on the cam, and the rocker arm mounting location on the heads it could be different.
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    Quote Originally Posted by slpdablueZ28 View Post
    so i want to do head and cam, torque converter, and a new rear end. i have a couple of questions about some of the specifics that they have when placing the order. im going to get the texas speed 228R - 114 lsa 228/228 588/588. with their head package. Precision Race Components 5.3L Stage 2.5 Cylinder Heads Fully CNC Ported & Assembled With Stainless Steel 2.02" Intake Valves, 1.575" Exhaust Valves, & PRC Dual Valve Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers. Kit Also Includes TSP Hardened Pushrods
    Q1. what should i use for pushrod length? 7.400 being the suggested standard
    Q2. do i need to get the timing chain? if so which one double roller or single?
    Q3. will i need a new oil pump?
    Q4. wats the difference between the deluxe gaskets and the basic?

    Now for a torque converter i see on their site they have Precision Industries Vigilante Lock-Up Converter. I was thinking about running a 3000 stall.
    Q1. theres a couple choices: 2004R, 4L60E, 4L70E, 4L80E, 700R4. wat are these?
    Q2. a single disc lock up is ok or triple disc?
    Q3. is there a better/cheaper brand i should look at?

    For a rear end i want to do a moser 9" with 3.73, well actually on texas speed they have a 3.70 so i guess ill take that.
    Q. theres a lot of options for this thing and im not sure which i should get. if someone could please recommend wat to get on this page i would appreciate it http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...mid=61&catid=6


    Is my project drivable with that h/c swap, 3000 stall and rear end? i might throw in some pacesetters too to get rid or the slp headers. any and all help is greatly appreciated. thanks guys!



    FYI... Take it from someone who just had heads, cam, and clutch (among other things) installed. Replace the oil pump AND water pump.

    Before you get the cam Google ls1sounds.com. There are dozens of videos to give you an idea of what kind of cam you can live with.

    I went with a comp cam double roller set. I would suggest new hydraulic lifters also.

    Visit racing shops on EBAY. There are many great prices and reputable places such as Atlantic Speed.

    I also have hooker long tubes, no cats, and true duals with flowmasters. My T/A is loud enough to get looks at red lights and sounds excellent on the fly!

    Above all else... RESEARCH RESEARCH RESEARCH

  6. #6
    Senior Member INMY01TA's Avatar
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    I'll ditto Orion and say go bigger on the stall, at least 3,500. Ditto on the 12 bolt too. I know several guys runnin 9 seconds with 12 bolts and autos. Lighter and more efficient.

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