I was like WTF????!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**camaroluvr447** · 05-30-2010, 08:53 AM

Bad day for the Z.............. So last night I went camping with some freinds, hookah, a little mikes lemonade, and showing off my z. I let my buddy sit in the drivers seat (cars off just chilling) he opens the t-top drivers side, says thats cool, and put it back. I thought nothing of it. This morning I said hey lets go for a ride, so we hit the highway. Im flying through he gears and I hit 3rd and I hear a WHHOOOOOOSHHHH! I look up and my t-top just lifts off the car and flys up in the air. It didnt just fall but spiraled upward and then dropped, right next to a minivan which just about went off the road! I just said F*** kept going. It looked like a bomb when it hit the road, its in a million pieces. That was my sunday morning!

**cammed goat** · 05-30-2010, 09:21 AM

Sounds like your bud either didn't latch the panel back on all the way or at all.

Here ya go...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2000-...Q5fAccessories

**pajeff02** · 05-30-2010, 09:39 AM

Or... better yet, T-Tops Online (site sponsor).

**blkSS98** · 05-30-2010, 10:01 AM

I heard it was a good idea to lock them w/ the key, and SFC's will help also.

**squirlnutz** · 05-30-2010, 05:15 PM

Sorry for your loss. Sub frame conectors will help.

**tatertot91** · 05-30-2010, 05:53 PM

get a hardtop

**c5z28** · 05-30-2010, 05:56 PM

It must be might height because my head would hit the latch if I ever left it unlocked

**camaroluvr447** · 05-31-2010, 07:09 AM

hey thanks for the link, i will be buying one asap!

**Smittro** · 05-31-2010, 08:41 AM

Originally Posted by blkSS98

I heard it was a good idea to lock them w/ the key, and SFC's will help also.

Originally Posted by squirlnutz

Sorry for your loss. Sub frame conectors will help.

Locking the tops does nothing to the pins that hold it in except to keep the handles in their locked/latched possition. If your body is flexing enough for the tops to come out when latched subframe connectors are the least of your worries..

**Hi-Po** · 05-31-2010, 08:52 AM

Its happened to me also. Mine didn't break though

For how many links get taken down, even when linking to another car forum for information, you would think that ebay link would be removed immediately. It is directly related to a paying sponsor

http://t-topsonline.com/t-top.htm

**cammed goat** · 05-31-2010, 09:00 AM

I didn't look at that site till today. Very nice!!!

**blkSS98** · 05-31-2010, 09:16 PM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Locking the tops does nothing to the pins that hold it in except to keep the handles in their locked/latched possition. If your body is flexing enough for the tops to come out when latched subframe connectors are the least of your worries..

Thx Smittro. So since my car did that what would you suggest. It was on the pass. side. And completely stock at the time.

Sorry for taking the thread off track.

**95camaroZNC** · 05-31-2010, 09:26 PM

Originally Posted by blkSS98

I heard it was a good idea to lock them w/ the key, and SFC's will help also.

I always do when someone new is in the car, they think they are oh shit bars, when in all honesty if they pull it while your driving youll def say "Oh shit"

**Smittro** · 05-31-2010, 09:37 PM

Originally Posted by blkSS98

Thx Smittro. So since my car did that what would you suggest. It was on the pass. side. And completely stock at the time.

Sorry for taking the thread off track.

Was'nt trying to tick you off man.. I'd start by going over every inch of your unibody. Make sure non of the factory spot welds has popped. Also make sure that it's not just a defect in the way the pins for the top interlock with the roof.. Because that's a sh#t ton of flex.. THEN if you can't find anything odd get a set SFC's that have the center supports and weld them in. If not imho it will happen again with the new top eventually.. Seaming the chasis would be ideal but not everyone wants to dig into their cars in that manner. It's in my 01 future tho..

**blkSS98** · 05-31-2010, 09:44 PM

No, I wasn't upset @ all. My bad. I have KB Double Diamond weld ins right now. I'm not sure if the shop welded the centers or not because the tie in to the tunnel brace I think.

So your basically sayin it will be a s***t ton of work to fix it?

In the future can I buy a hardtop car and put sfc's and a rollcage in it b4 I really get into the throttle? Will that help stiffen the unibody alot?

**Smittro** · 05-31-2010, 10:04 PM

Originally Posted by blkSS98

No, I wasn't upset @ all. My bad. I have KB Double Diamond weld ins right now. I'm not sure if the shop welded the centers or not because the tie in to the tunnel brace I think.

So your basically sayin it will be a s***t ton of work to fix it?

In the future can I buy a hardtop car and put sfc's and a rollcage in it b4 I really get into the throttle? Will that help stiffen the unibody alot?

Well if you do deside to seam out the chasis yes that is a poo ton of work but well worth it imho.. Right now you just need to find what's causing so much flex.. Flex like your seeing could cause problems elsewhere. Over time your/our chasis's get weakened from the many forces that act upon our cars just going down the road.. A full cage will stuffen the chassis considerably as long as it's tied in correctly. Hard tops arguably are'nt any stiffer than a t-top because all 4th gens came down the line as a t-top with minor changes made for the tin lid on the hard tops. I would'nt worry about getting on it just iron out your body flex issue and take it from there.

**35th-ANV-SS** · 05-31-2010, 10:43 PM

I don't see anywhere in this thread where you were sure that the t-top was even latched and seated properly....

I would almost GUARANTEE that THIS is why it flew off...not b/c of "flex".

**Smittro** · 06-01-2010, 02:54 AM

Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS

I don't see anywhere in this thread where you were sure that the t-top was even latched and seated properly....

I would almost GUARANTEE that THIS is why it flew off...not b/c of "flex".

Ref post #12

I've personally seen many unibody cars begin to flex to point the body panels actually began to form cracks in the panels where the corners are sharp.. I've also seen popped spot welds on cars that have been wrecked and repaired... Owned one as a matter of fact... It one of the main reasons wrecked cars are "r" titled and usually don't carry the value of a car that has'nt been wrecked.. No dice on the guarantee bro..

**Speedy_Gonzales** · 06-01-2010, 05:10 AM

your buddy needs to pay the bill.....I would check a local junk yard first

**35th-ANV-SS** · 06-01-2010, 08:36 AM

Originally Posted by Smittro

Ref post #12

I've personally seen many unibody cars begin to flex to point the body panels actually began to form cracks in the panels where the corners are sharp.. I've also seen popped spot welds on cars that have been wrecked and repaired... Owned one as a matter of fact... It one of the main reasons wrecked cars are "r" titled and usually don't carry the value of a car that has'nt been wrecked.. No dice on the guarantee bro..

Post #12 does not say that the OP had his t-top properly locked...

It states that YOU SAID "IF" it was properly locked...

PLUS...your quote isn't even to the OP of this thread....

My statement still stands...the t-top could have just been laying there with the handle down for all I know..."appearing" to be locked and engaged, when in fact, it wasn't at all.

In order to engage mine, you have to press down on the t-top itself and you can "feel" it lock.

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