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HUGE install...How long? tips?

This is a discussion on HUGE install...How long? tips? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; im getting the rest of the parts for my install on my 98 ss m6 with 100k miles this friday. ...

  1. #1
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    HUGE install...How long? tips?

    im getting the rest of the parts for my install on my 98 ss m6 with 100k miles this friday. I will be installing a ton of stuff including prc stage 2.5 heads, 228R cam, dual spring kit, ls6 oil pump, ls2 timing chain, pacesetter longtubes ORY, bbk intake, 85mm throttle body, hsw single nozzle dry nitrous kit 75 shot, 42# injectors, walbro fuel pump, tr6 plugs, msd plug wires, ls7 lifters w/ls2 lifter trays, strut tower brace, subframe connectors
    The car already has slp maf, loudmouth exhaust, smooth bellows, airlid w/k&n.
    I think thats about it. How long do you guys think it will take for this install? my brother and dad will also be helping me. Is there anything else i would need or should get for this install? also was wondering if anyone had any tips or hints for anything on this install and if anyone new what kinda power i would be puttin out after this?

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    a good hard weekend and you should have most of it done with the three of you working on it.
    bolt in or weld in sfc's? get the car up in the air and on ramps.....for the sfc's you need to have the weght on the tires.
    if your tuning it I'd recomend Hptuners program......it should start, but I doubt it will run well enough to drive and will need to be tuned for the 75shot.

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    515 HP TrickFlow Package BADASS2000SS's Avatar
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    Holy shit thats a lot. Good luck and cant wait to see the final product! I wish I could be there to help.
    2000 SLP Camaro SS M6 * 515 HP TrickFlow Package * FAST 92 MM Intake * Nick Williams 92 MM TB * Volant CAI * Granatelli MAF * Full Custom True Dual Exhaust with X-Pipe * Tuned by Breathless Performance

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    Since its a 98 did you get the kind of heads to match your valve covers or did you buy new valve covers?

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    Still The Junior Member RedVertTA's Avatar
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    Might be a stupid suggestion but I've known people to forget, use multilayer steel headers gaskets, not that cork/rubber gasket crap that usually comes with most headers you buy.

  6. #6
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedVertTA View Post
    Might be a stupid suggestion but I've known people to forget, use multilayer steel headers gaskets, not that cork/rubber gasket crap that usually comes with most headers you buy.
    good point MLS exhaust and head gaskets are the only way to go....more expensive, but they last.....header swap and had my headers off a few times and I'm still using my factory MLS exhaust gaskets with 65,000 miles and no leaks.
    did you get new head bolts? ARP, or if price is a problem Autozone......stock bolts at the dealership are the dame price as ARP bolts.
    don't forget to if you need the center bolt valve covers you will need the coil brackets too.(both can be picked up at the salvage yard pretty cheap.


    take a pry bar and slide it into one of the holes in the crank pulley and under one corner of the oil pan, then use a 2 foot or longer breaker bar to break the bolt loose......get a longer bolt from the hareware store to start the pulley back on too so you don't messup any threads......use locktite and big breaker bar to get the pulley tight again....if I remember right it calls for 230 ftlbs.

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    yeah i ended up having to buy the center bolt valve covers and coil brackets. Thanks alot for the suggestions and tips guys. really appreciated.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    after you pull the waterpump off stick a shop vac up to the ports on the heads and suck the coolant out of the heads before you pull them.....saves some mess when you lift the heads. If you're a stick car you can just put the car in gear to break the balancer bolt loose. I also made an install tool out of thread stock to push the pulley back on with. You basically just get a piece of metric thread stock a couple of nuts and a washer stack( I would have to look up the size again but I think it's m16x2.0 pitch). Just easier on the crank threads. I have one you can use if you wanted to drive out here and get it. It's probably going to take a tune just to get the car to run. It'll be a bitch to start.
    You'll also probably need a set of ear plugs when you start it.....it's going to be loud.

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    So whats the deal with the balancer bolt? its not long enough?

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    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmatt07 View Post
    So whats the deal with the balancer bolt? its not long enough?
    its too short to get the pulley started, but once the pulley is close to being in place it will fit (the pulley is a tight fit and has to be forced about an inch and a half onto the crank)

  11. #11
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    where you could run into trouble is those first few threads. I've read where people pull those threads out of the crank getting it started trying to pull it on with a longer bolt. If you go buy some threadstock 2 nuts and a few washers you're good to go. About $20 to build one.....cheap insurance. Now you'll hear hundreds of guys say they've pushed it on with the bolt and haven't had any problems with it...and they'd be telling the truth. Not worth the risk IMO to be one of the guys that didn't have their luck.

  12. #12
    cutting and welding mark21742's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    where you could run into trouble is those first few threads. I've read where people pull those threads out of the crank getting it started trying to pull it on with a longer bolt. If you go buy some threadstock 2 nuts and a few washers you're good to go. About $20 to build one.....cheap insurance. Now you'll hear hundreds of guys say they've pushed it on with the bolt and haven't had any problems with it...and they'd be telling the truth. Not worth the risk IMO to be one of the guys that didn't have their luck.
    I know when I did mine the bolt didn't even reach the crank threads..... using your (homemade) pulley tool would have made it a lot easier......i used a longer bolt, cranked it then back out and added a few washer over and over again lol it was a PITA

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    Its not possible to set the crank on the shaft and try to tap on a bit with a mallet would it? like just enough so i can get more than a couple threads on the bolt.

  14. #14
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    don't try and start it up with those 42lb injectors without a base tune in the PCM.

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    will it damage the car? im just curious what will happen. just flood it or something?

  16. #16
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    between the injectors and your stock VE (which will ALSO be WAY rich even if your injectors were stock, so this is a double whammy) it will be seriously over fueled. No need to risk washing out the rings trying to get it up to closed loop temp.

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    ohhh i see thanks for the info ya ill def make sure to get a mail order tune done and then later take it to get dyno tuned

  18. #18
    TunedbyFrost.com Tuner Frost's Avatar
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    Call your tuner. Most shops will provide mail order tuning to get cars up and running and to them. Most of them include it in the tuning price or refund some or all of the mail order cost when the car is brought in.

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