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How to test the Power Window Switch????

This is a discussion on How to test the Power Window Switch???? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hi All, I have a 2001 Camaro SS with 21,520 original miles. Yeah, I have the WELL documented issue of ...

  1. #1
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    How to test the Power Window Switch????

    Hi All,

    I have a 2001 Camaro SS with 21,520 original miles.

    Yeah, I have the WELL documented issue of my Drivers Side Power Window that just goes Down and Back up in "Very" small increments. Most people think it is the Window Motor, and I did find the link to the Instructions to do this. Great..! This is a low miles car though and the window motor has not had a lot of use, so I want to rule in or rule out the Door Switch itself.

    I did read somewhere where someone tried some sort of "Jumper" to rule in or rule out the Switch itself. I could not find instructions on how to try this Jumper test. If anyone could help me out I would be most grateful!!!! Thanks,

    Tom

  2. #2
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Please ignore this thread. I figured it out. I have a bad Power Window Motor.

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    Posted and fixed in less than 4 hours with absolutely no help from us. Good work!

    The motor setup and power window wiring in our cars isn't real good. Low miles doesn't really seem to matter when it comes to window issues.

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    Senior Member Too Fast's Avatar
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    And for anyone else who reads this thread, if your window motor operates like the OP described, then you have already ruled out the switch itself and the wiring to the window motor.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks PAJEFF02, but I can't take all the credit. I went to a Mechanic friend of mine who happened to have a few spare minutes. We tested the electrical output from the switch while activating it each direction (Using the outputs on the rear of the switch after removing it from the door panel). The light on the 12 volt Circuit Tester lit up when the switch was pressed in each direction, meaning that power was going to the window motor. We compared the bad Divers side, to the working Passenger side, and each side worked identically.

    Question PLEASE. Since I have Cast on my right arm, I am paying to have this fixed. My Mechanic friend asked me if I wanted just the Motor, or the Motor and Regulator. Anyone have an opinion on whether I should replace the regulator? He called his parts guy, and (My cost for) the Motor is $89 and the Motor+Regulator are $169. Thanks.....Tom
    Last edited by NastySS; 05-20-2014 at 07:11 AM.

  6. #6
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Just do the motor unless you are starting to have a wobbly window.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Thanks, now that you mention it, when the window is about half the way down, it does make a rattling sound when I hit bumps, but I have the 1LE Suspension option with the dual adjustable Koni Shocks. It does have a much bumpier than normal ride, that is for sure. This is based on my experience with my previous '01 SS that I bought New in 2001, and had it until August 2012 with 96,000 miles. It had the stock SS suspension. Also, when the window is about half the way down, I can rock the window back and forth which seems a bit loose. Is this the Regulator causing this? I have zero experience with window issues on these cars. I never had any Window issues with my previous SS. Thanks.

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    Senior Member theorangeguy's Avatar
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    windows in our cars suck...in fact the entire window configuration in our cars sucks lol If you want to save yourself some headaches down the road, throw this into the passenger side...

    its worth every penny and corrects a flaw from the factory...

    AutoTrix :: Passenger Window Fix Kit

    as for the regulator issue...make sure it is mounted correctly and has never been tampered with. Mine looked like this and I was having wobble issues like yours...they progressively got worse until I took the door panel out and found the problem. Sometimes its as easy as the felt pads at the top of the door frame that need to be adjusted, other times its the regulator itself.

    As you can see in the pictures, the bolts were tearing away at the fiberglass because it was not mounted correctly when somebody replaced a motor or moved the regulator around...not saying you are having this problem, but it is pretty common...

    Last edited by theorangeguy; 05-20-2014 at 12:33 PM.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Hey Orangeguy,

    Thanks for the very helpful write-up. Very much appreciated....! I am sure this will help me out greatly when we get the door apart Thursday. The only thing that sucks is that I won't have time to order and get that wiring re-router before then.

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    024mula 024mula's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by theorangeguy View Post

    its worth every penny and corrects a flaw from the factory...

    AutoTrix :: Passenger Window Fix Kit
    How easy is it to install this?
    2002 Firebird Formula - 5.7 Liter - "Last of the Breed"

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    Member sjgreen6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 024mula View Post
    How easy is it to install this?
    I just installed the kit two weekends ago. The Autotrix kit comes with good quality parts and the instructions are on-line at AutoTrix Install Instructions . Click on the Passenger Side Window Fix Kit.

    The only two things that gave me a bit of trouble were running the power wires through the rubber channel to the door and getting all of the wire folded up inside the arm rest.

    Here are my recommendations: When you get ready to run the wires from the engine compartment down to the channel and into the door, I used a small flexible metal fish tape (for moving wires behind wall board). I pushed the fish tape through the door channel from the door side then taped the wires to the fish tape and carefully pulled them back through the channel. Trying to push the wires through that corrugated wire filled black hole is almost impossible otherwise.

    As to the wires in the arm rest, the kit comes with prewired leads to the two relays. The leads give you about 12 inches of wire on each relay. You only need about 5-6 inches tops. Trim the wires down. Once everything is crimped you have to get all that crap (wires and two relays plus the switches) back inside of the arm rest and the less unnecessary wire you have to shove in there the better.
    SMWS6TA and 024mula like this.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    +infinity on the Autotrix kit


    One the best damn things that should have come from the factory.

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Well, the new Window Motor is installed, and all is good with the world,,,,well that is an overstatement about the world. Why didn't anyone mention in any of the threads that I read, that you need to have the skinny arms of a 10 year old child to get into those tiny holes holes GM gives you to access the Window Motor? Man, what a Pain in the ess...!!!!
    Last edited by NastySS; 05-23-2014 at 04:02 PM.

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    Good work on the repair. Dreading the day I have to do ours...

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    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    Well, one trick is to remove the speaker. Once you have all the rivets drilled out that secure the original Motor, that gives you the access you need to get all the nuts and bolts started to secure the new Motor. I will pray you never have to do this fix, but if you do you will need a second set of hands to retain your sanity, should you have it at the start.

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    024mula 024mula's Avatar
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    Since all you guys installed the autotrix kit, what makes it better than the wiring that's in the car? Is it because the wire is a heavier grade of wire? And is it only required on the passenger side?
    Last edited by 024mula; 05-24-2014 at 06:23 PM.

  17. #17
    NastySS NastySS's Avatar
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    I did not install the Autotrix Kit, but I read the link to the kit. It pulls the Window Motor power directly from the battery, rather than the low voltage that the stock wiring sends to it, preventing the motor overheating issue. It makes sense that the wire gauge would be a smaller number(Thicker wire, more copper). I know only the passenger side seems to have been mentioned here and I don't know why either, but I can't answer that question. Seems logical to me that both sides would need this kit installed, or maybe the kit does both sides?

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    Junior Member chuckstop00's Avatar
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    I just put in my third motor on the driver side yesterday.
    From experience I might offer a couple of suggestions:
    For me it is easier to do the whole regulator and motor assembly, costs a bit more but easier.
    I use nuts/bolts instead of rivets, to slip them in to the "blocked" holes of the regulator, hook the motor up and move it
    back and forth until the holes are accessable. Note the position of the old regulator, another reason I do both, you have
    the old one to reference the position. Take the old one out with the window up. Block the window to the door frame with
    rubber door stoppers, bigger ones work better, make sure the window doesn't/can't move. I also wrap electrical tape
    around the connectors, keeps them from getting loose and getting intermittent. Another thing to look for, is when the
    window is all the way down, does the door bulge out a bit? I never lower my windows all the way for that reason, I
    leave them up an inch or two. That contributes to the macaroni effect on the fiberglass mounting holes.

    2000 Formula - 6spd & t-tops
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