HOW TO: Swap stock intake with LS6 intake

**thechad125** · 02-15-2013, 08:21 PM

Lookin in to buying one. A few questions...I've never done an intake swap so a step by step would be nice. I've heard it's only 75mm...if that's true should I bother buying a new throttle body? Other than gaskets and bolts what else would I need for the install? New fuel rails? Or do stock fit? All the eltronic pieces fit? If not what and where can I get it? ANY info would be appreciated. And just an extra, know a good site that sells one cheap?

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-15-2013, 08:34 PM

1st - go to LS1howto.com. there are step by step insructions on how to do the swap.

2nd - you can use fuel rails, injectors, throttle body map sensor (if it doesn't come with one) from your LS1 intake. Bolts too.

It is not a hard mod to do but there are a couple of things to know.

Coolant crossover tubes - you can keep your LS1 tubes or get a LS6 coolant kit ($60). If you reuse them you need to knock off the fins on the bottom of the LS6 intake for clearence.

Knock senors - now is a good time to update them, you're here so why not. If you have a 98' get 99< ks and a 99< wire harness. GM has phased out >98 ks.

No tuning is required by it would benifit if you did. If you haven't done headers yet you are ok to wait till then.

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-15-2013, 08:41 PM

Cost - used around $300, every once and while one comes up here. Look at other ls sites too. I got mine from craigslist.

Yes all connections will work. Have an oil pressure sensor either on hand or have one ready to pick up from the store. This part is located on the drivers sidejust behind the intake. Its very easy to break, usually happens when you remove the intake. The brake booster hose usually smacks it when you fight the intake.

The front 6 bolts can be removed while the last 4 you need to hold up as you remove the intake & install as well.

Job takes about an hr, maybe a little longer for first timers. Make sure you account for all tools, don't drop anything into the cylinder heads.

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-15-2013, 08:44 PM

Use a drimel to carefully knock off the fins on the bottom

**thechad125** · 02-16-2013, 09:03 PM

Thanks man, seems like a somewhat easy job. That site just may be a life saver

**SS SLP2** · 02-20-2013, 07:27 AM

AS stated watch out for the oil pressure sensor, have changed the intake 4-5 times and one time broke the oil sensor, is a special socket to remove /replace it after I broke one sensor I bought the socket, as stated goog time to change the knocks just do not over tighten them. To hold up the back bolts use close pins/aligator clips/just rap some tape around, I reuse the gaskets if they apear ok , do not over tighten the intake bolts.
Follow LS1HOWTO, EASY JOB
Johnny

**JayTA98** · 02-21-2013, 05:22 AM

i agree with the oil pressure sensor. you can either have an extra or you can buy the socket to remove it before you pull the intake out. I can remove my oil pressure sensor but I can get my hands in there. If you can get it out because of clearance make sure you clear the brake booster hose. I will highly suggest the replacement of the knock sensors and the new wiring harness if you can afford it. One thing you really have to watch out for, when you putting back the new intake in place MAKE SURE the intake is not pinching the knock sensor wiring harness. it will throw a knock sensor code at the end of the install or after a while. You will have to remove the intake again and repair the broken wire. you can put a few pieces of tape to keep the harness in place when reinstalling the intake.

As far of a tune i just finished sending my pcm to frost and I contacted him about the new LS6 intake. He told that if I want I could send it back and he can make some more adjustments but it wasn't critical. Since he wasn't charging additional for the extra I sent it to him. One of the best upgrades I did was sending that PCM to Frost. It is a must on an A4 imo.

**0rion** · 02-22-2013, 03:24 AM

another trick is to put a little bit of masking tape on those back bolts when you're installing the intake to hold the bolts up. After you get the intake in place remove the tape and let the bolts drop. Just keeps them from hanging out the bottom of the intake and catching on shit as you're trying to put it back in place. You can also do this when removing it to hold those bolts up. Just pull the bolts up and wrap a piece of tape around them so they don't fall back down. Depending on where you get the intake from you may not need gaskets at all. I bought a used ls6 that already had the gaskets in it and didn't change mine. I've had it off several times after that too and never changed them. The silicone gaskets are a lot different than the old cork or paper gaskets.
Another thing too is you don't have to completely disconnect the fuel rails. Just unplug the injectors and take the bolts out that hold the rail in place then pull up on the rail to unseat the injectors and then you can swing the whole rail off to the side with everything still hooked up. When you install the new intake don't over torque those bolts....the spec is in INCH pounds and not foot lbs.

**thechad125** · 02-22-2013, 02:30 PM

lol sorry guys...I found a great deal for a FAST intake so I'm getting one of those instead. It comes with instructions but I'm sure it doesn't cover what can go wrong. If you've done one, let me know about it. Bought a 92mm TB to go with it, pretty excited about it. In other news I can't pass inspection because tinted taillights can no longer pass the test in Texas as of a few months ago :/

And another thing with the intake, it's the 102mm btw, do I NEED new fuel rails? or will stock fit?

**98TransAmWs-6** · 02-22-2013, 04:07 PM

Originally Posted by thechad125

lol sorry guys...I found a great deal for a FAST intake so I'm getting one of those instead. It comes with instructions but I'm sure it doesn't cover what can go wrong. If you've done one, let me know about it. Bought a 92mm TB to go with it, pretty excited about it. In other news I can't pass inspection because tinted taillights can no longer pass the test in Texas as of a few months ago :/

And another thing with the intake, it's the 102mm btw, do I NEED new fuel rails? or will stock fit?

First why did you get a 92mm with a 102mm FAST, you really want the same diameter TB and intake to prevent turbulence which may not be an issue as of yet but depending on what your future mods are it could be. For fuel rails you must either use the FAST billet fuel rails or ls2 style rails with spacers. You still need ls6 cross over tube and rear coolant block offs for this intake. You will also need to grind the top of your water pump for proper fitment. In addition the MAP sensor hole is not drilled and I would remove the top shell and rear most runner to drill it. This makes it easier to remove debris and prevent accidentally drilling through the runner.

***SMWS6TA*** · 02-22-2013, 09:41 PM

Why doesn't FAST just make the hole for the MAP sensor?

**98TransAmWs-6** · 02-23-2013, 04:10 AM

Originally Posted by SMWS6TA

Why doesn't FAST just make the hole for the MAP sensor?

Because the ls1/2 style have the MAP in two different spots and the intake is for use for both. The port for both is on the intake and you open the one up depending on if you have a ls1/6 or ls2.

**thechad125** · 02-23-2013, 07:56 PM

Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6

First why did you get a 92mm with a 102mm FAST, you really want the same diameter TB and intake to prevent turbulence which may not be an issue as of yet but depending on what your future mods are it could be.

This is likely my last mod, some people have reported issuses having the 102 TB without forced induction. I didn't want to chance it, and money is scarce.

And where can I find the ls6 cross over tube and rear coolant block offs? Found a cross over tube for $50...is that a fair price? It's the only listing so I can't compare.

**0rion** · 02-23-2013, 08:04 PM

Originally Posted by thechad125

This is likely my last mod, some people have reported issuses having the 102 TB without forced induction. I didn't want to chance it, and money is scarce.

let me know how that works out for you

**thechad125** · 02-23-2013, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by 0rion

let me know how that works out for you

lol yea I know but I'm already cammed,tuned, cold air, gears, full exhaust, now this...I guess I should say hopefully my last MAJOR mod. Might do some suspension work in the future

**98TransAmWs-6** · 02-24-2013, 07:19 AM

What issues did you hear about? I had a 96mm intake manifold and 101mm TB from Professional Products prior to switching to a FAST 102/102 set up. I haven't really ran the car since the FAST but I haven't heard anything bad from the 102 TB I have. I have the 102 Nick Williams I don't know if it is different for the 102 FAST TB or not.

**redbird555** · 02-24-2013, 10:23 AM

Maybe I missed it in here where it was said otherwise but the op's sig says his car is an 02 so therefore he should already have the ls6 intake... as well as the crossover tubes needed.

Also the fast 102 is a BIG sob. The smaller versions will usually idle ok on the stock tune but as with anything will need a tune to optimize it. However the 102 will absolutley need a tune, many people report idle issues and driveability fits with the 102 because of the air it lets in. So just plan on that if you go with the larger fast. I personally think the 90-92 would be better if you're not going to have it dyno tuned again yet. The 92 mm will make just as much power as the 102 and can still use the stock rails.

**thechad125** · 02-25-2013, 07:11 PM

Originally Posted by redbird555

Maybe I missed it in here where it was said otherwise but the op's sig says his car is an 02 so therefore he should already have the ls6 intake... as well as the crossover tubes needed.

Also the fast 102 is a BIG sob. The smaller versions will usually idle ok on the stock tune but as with anything will need a tune to optimize it. However the 102 will absolutley need a tune, many people report idle issues and driveability fits with the 102 because of the air it lets in. So just plan on that if you go with the larger fast. I personally think the 90-92 would be better if you're not going to have it dyno tuned again yet. The 92 mm will make just as much power as the 102 and can still use the stock rails.

Those are the issues I've heard, I have a tune that at the time I had a cam, cold air, exhaust and gears...think I'd still need a tune? Any problems with it causing it to run rich or lean? And yes I have an 02...didn't know it came with the ls6 intake...haha good to know. And I already bought 102mm so I'm stickin with it. I'll probably talk to the guy that gave me the tune at Boost Performance and see how much he'd charge to do it. I'd like some dyno numbers anyway, and hardly have spare time do much work on the TA sadly, or the tools...I'll update eventually with issues, numbers, etc...

**redbird555** · 02-26-2013, 03:17 AM

Haha yep all 01-02 cars came with an ls6 intake it's recognize able on our cars by no egr tube going into the front of the manifold. Anyway your car may idle ole with the new fast it may not. The problem is that the intake lets in much more air than stock and the PCM can't compensate with fuel easily. So just plan on a retune, even of the car does run ok you will be leaving a lot on the table. Most guys who add a fast with no tune only see 5-10whp before a tune but upwards of 20 after.

Also I assume you bought a fast tb? If not just make sure whatever brand you bought seals up well and doesn't leak. You will also need the fuel injector adapters and ls2 style fuel rails, as well as to grind the water pump a bit. But you can skip getting the ls6 coolant lines