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HOW TO: Replacing a Broken Seat Belt Guide

This is a discussion on HOW TO: Replacing a Broken Seat Belt Guide within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Made this write up with pictures to help anyone who has a cracked or broken seat belt guide with the ...

  1. #1
    Member BANDITCAR's Avatar
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    HOW TO: Replacing a Broken Seat Belt Guide

    Made this write up with pictures to help anyone who has a cracked or broken seat belt guide with the easiest way of replacing it. Sure it's not a highly difficult job, but it will help out those with little or no mechanical know how.

    First I'll start off with a rundown of the part numbers of the different seat belt guides* for the different interior colors:

    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), neutral, RH = 16789714
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), neutral, LH = 16789715
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), gray, RH = 16799272
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), gray, LH = 16799273
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), pewter, RH = 16799274
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), pewter, LH = 16799275
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), ebony, RH = 16817200
    seat shoulder belt guide (98-02), ebony, LH = 16817201

    *Thanks to ACW of LS1tech for the list.

    As far as tools that you will need:
    -Philips head screwdriver
    -Flat head screwdriver (small)
    -3/8 inch drive socket wrench
    -T50 Torx (Star) socket bit

    If you don't have the Star sockets, a small set can be purchased at Autozone for $10. Here is the one I bought and worked perfectly


    So, what do you do when your seatbelt guide breaks off? Well, only one thing to do really and that is replace it with a new one. Repairing the old one might work for a small frame of time, but its not recommended
    Here is my broken seat belt guide hanging free from its rightful place on the headrest.


    First step is putting on the new seat belt guide to the headrest. Doing this first will aid in not getting confused as to which way the guide goes onto the belt.
    Just undo the screws with the philips head screwdriver. Make sure the head of the driver fits snug in the screws to avoid stripping.
    Place the guide over the indented area in the leather of the headrest and find the hole with the top screw first. Screw that one it halfway and then put the bottom screw in. Tighten down both until the guide is snug and there is no play(back and forth motion). If it is not tightened down all the way, it will most likely break sooner than you like.


    Next we move to removing the seat belt itself from its anchor position on the floor of the car.

    Grab your small flat head screwdriver and GENTLY pry up the round plastic cover from the seat belt anchor. The plastic is very pliable as long as you remove it slowly.


    Set aside the cover for replacement at the end of the changeover. Here you can see the underside of the cover and notice the notch in it that allows you to slip one side back under the anchors plastic cover and screw it back into its home position.


    Now grab your socket wrench and put on the T50 bit. Make sure the bit is all the way into the bolt and snug. Do Not Try to Wrench it quickly. Start with a little pressure and slowly add more to the turn while keeping the bit pressed into the bolt to avoid stripping. Mine wasn't Super tight, but some might be tighter than others. Just take you time and it will come loose.


    After loosening and removing the anchor bolt, just slide the broken seat belt guide off of the seat belt.


    Take the end of the seat belt and run it through the guide that is attached to the headrest.


    Next, slip the seat belt buckle through the guide at an angle.


    Now, check and make sure that there are no twists in the belt and that it lays flat by buckling the belt in and test fitting it.


    with the belt still buckled in, replace the anchor end and put the bolt back in and tighten as much as you can but do not overtighten. You'll feel the bolt stop at a point.
    If you have a torque wrench, set if for 31 foot lbs. and wrench the bolt down with a little lock tite on the threads. (tip by Smkn_TA)


    Now just replace the round cover to the anchors plastic cover by setting one side of the groove into the opening and turning it to set in place. That is it, you're done. Enjoy your non-neck chaffing seat belt.
    Last edited by BANDITCAR; 08-14-2007 at 08:36 PM.
    2002 Trans Am Collector Edition WS6 ASC# 619
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    Good job! I've seen where people bought the convertible guide cause it's a little easier to install - but not as strong and the coupe units.

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    Member BANDITCAR's Avatar
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    Yes, I was thinking about using the Vert guides but I also read about how the belt likes to slip out of the guide more than it should. So I opted for the original.

    If you want to make the replacement 90% easier, then get the Vert guides. Sorry fellas, don't have the part numbers for those, but if someone wants to gather them up I'll add them to the original post.

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    Senior Member mrr23's Avatar
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    nice write-up. you get a sticky.

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    Member BANDITCAR's Avatar
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    Sweet, I got a sticky!

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    Impwnded Smkn_TA's Avatar
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    You couldn't write this five days sooner!??!?! I had to do it twice, cause I was not smart enough to attatch the guide first. Damn it! Oh, put lock tite on the anchor bolt, and use a torque wrench and set it to 31 foot lbs. Son of a bitch though...attatch guide first. Brilliant!!!

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    Member BANDITCAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smkn_TA View Post
    You couldn't write this five days sooner!??!?! I had to do it twice, cause I was not smart enough to attatch the guide first. Damn it! Oh, put lock tite on the anchor bolt, and use a torque wrench and set it to 31 foot lbs. Son of a bitch though...attatch guide first. Brilliant!!!

    Sorry bout that.

    When I was researching how other people had done this most all of them had problems getting the guide on the right way because they would put it on after the fact. So I just thought, why not attach it first and run the belt through...seemed like it would be SOOO much easier that way...and it was!

    I'll add that info that you put to the write up.

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    PFM
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    I took a dremel with a diamond wheel and cut a slit thru mine slipped my seatbelt thru and glued the slit closed with JB Weld which was the same color as my seatbelt loop. Unless your looking for it you don't see it. I could use the Part #s for the two phillips screws. I have one missing and haven't been able to find one the same size.
    Last edited by PFM; 08-16-2007 at 11:13 AM. Reason: add

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    which side is the "driver's side" right or left?

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    Random Pics King FSANE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by third_shift|studios View Post
    which side is the "driver's side" right or left?
    are you kidding?

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    Detailing + Design third_shift|studios's Avatar
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    i wouldn't have asked if i were

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    Junior Member Rick in Yuma's Avatar
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    Vert Belt Guides

    Would like to also know what the Vert # are. I ordered them from the dealer. twice I received the solid set. Dealer said to cut a slot in them, these were the only ones GM makes. I told them I can see the mold marks on the slot. They would not budge.

    Thanks to you who finds them.

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    Junior Member shanepatrick1230's Avatar
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    good write up, i was afraid i was going to break that little plastic plug until i read this, thanks. drivers side is the left.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Good writeup, but I was hoping it would explain how to fix the seatbelt guide after it has been pulled out of the side of the headrest. The screw holes are all stripped out and the material is ripped up, it was like that when I bought the car.

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    excellent write up man, im gonna go take care of this now, i just assumed they had slots then i screwed in the new loop and went to put in the belt and was like

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    Junior Member shanepatrick1230's Avatar
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    oh and the bit wasnt t 50 for mine, it was a size smaller

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    Quote Originally Posted by shanepatrick1230 View Post
    oh and the bit wasnt t 50 for mine, it was a size smaller
    same here, 45 i believe

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    great writeup, took me 3 minutes to do =)

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    Member muteki's Avatar
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    Worked awesome!!! Thanks. The hardest part was realizing that I didn't have the T-50 and borrowing one...hahhah. Great Job!!!

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    Member jonj601's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by muteki View Post
    Worked awesome!!! Thanks. The hardest part was realizing that I didn't have the T-50 and borrowing one...hahhah. Great Job!!!
    Same here! thanks for posting what tool was needed to remove strap

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