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How to Bypass your VATS

This is a discussion on How to Bypass your VATS within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; NEW TO THE SIGHT AND HAVE A QUESTION ON THIS VATS DEAL.MY CAR WILL TURN OVER BUT WILL NOT FIRE.I ...

  1. #141
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    Angry vats bypass.

    NEW TO THE SIGHT AND HAVE A QUESTION ON THIS VATS DEAL.MY CAR WILL TURN OVER BUT WILL NOT FIRE.I SMELL FUEL BUT MY QUESTION IS DOES THE FUEL CUT OUT DURING CRANKING IF THE VATS NOT WORKING! I AM READY FOR THE RESISTOR TRICK IF THIS IS THE CASE!!!! THANKS,CHRIS

  2. #142
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    yeah I believe its supposed to cut the fuel injectors from spraying and the starter circuit. That way if someone bypass the starter circuit to crank the engine it still won't start because the injectors are shut off

  3. #143
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    it will disable the fuel pump and the starter....it will also turn the security light on the dash on. If yours is turning over then it's most likely not vats. Start a thread in the general help area and we'll help you trouble shoot it.

  4. #144
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    vats

    THANKS THIS WILL SOLVE MY ISSUES WITHOUT SPENDING THAT DREADED PILE OF MONEY AT THE DEALER.134.00 FOR THE CYLIDER AND 40.00 FOR EACH KEY.

  5. #145
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    it will disable the fuel pump and the starter....it will also turn the security light on the dash on. If yours is turning over then it's most likely not vats. Start a thread in the general help area and we'll help you trouble shoot it.
    I agree

  6. #146
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    So I finally got back to looking at my fix for my security light issues. Originally the light would come on and the car wouldn't start. The light would stay on even after removing the key from the ignition. I would wait 3 minutes, the light would go out, and the car would start immediately with either key.

    Both keys measured 4750 ohms and I got a 1/4 watt 4750 ohm gold band resistor.

    Tried putting it in the back of the purple/blackand white wire and left the connector from the VATS to ignition lock disconnected. Car started immediately but the security light stayed on for a minute then went out after driving a short distance. The security light comes on again after driving any where from 5 to 20 minutes and stays on. The car always starts immediately and if the light had been out when I stopped ( i.e I was driving between 5 and 20 min) the car starts immediately and the light stays out for a few minutes then comes on again.

    Today I thought I might have another look at what was going on and considered soldering the resistor into the orange wrapped wires on the key side of the connector. Just to make sure that everything was going according to plan I pulled the resistor out of the purple wired connector and tried to start the car with the ignition cylinder to VATS unit disconnected. To my great suprise the car still starts and the light stays on with no resistor present !!

    What is going on here?? Why would the car start? ( I tried repeatedly and it worked every time) Why does the light go out and them come back on again?

    Is there something else in the VATS that is screwed up? (At least the car starts easily but I'm not crazy about having the light come on after 5-20 min of driving). Other than the faulty sensor in the ignition lock cylinder, what else triggers a security light?

    Another note is that if I have driven for more than 20 min i.e the light has gone through an on/off cycle and then back on again, and I stop the car. When I restart, the light comes on and does not go out after a minute. Seems as if the car needs to be stopped for 2 hours or more to go through an on/off/on cycle.

    BTW I have had the motion sensor in the R rear wheel well disconnected for years and it makes no difference if it is reconnected.

    I'm baffled.

  7. #147
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Is this for your 97 Z28? I wonder if you can read the trouble codes. Try this:
    In the Diagnostic Mode, the BCM displays any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) stored in memory. The DTCs are displayed as flash codes through the "Security" indicator lamp on the Instrument Cluster.

    Diagnostics is entered by performing the following steps:

    * Turn the Ignition Switch to the "RUN"position to disarm the Universal Theft Deterrent system, if equipped.
    * Turn the Ignition Switch to the "OFF" position.
    * Remove the RADIO fuse 17 from the UP fuse block.
    * Turn the Ignition Switch to the "ACC" position (enters Program Mode for feature customization, 1 or 2 Audible Warning tones for mode verification).
    * Within 5 seconds, turn the Ignition Switch to "OFF" and immediately (within 1 second) back to the "ACC" position (enters Diagnostic Mode, 3 Audible Warning tones for mode verification).

    The BCM will begin to flash DTCs 4 seconds after entering the Diagnostic Mode. Each flash of the "Security" indicator lamp on the I/P represents a
    number. For example, one flash followed by two quick flashes represents a code 12. Each code is displayed 3 times before the next code is displayed. Stored DTCs are displayed in numerical order. Once the last code is displayed, the list begins over again with the first code. The display continues until the Diagnostic Mode is exited.

  8. #148
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    So would this problem cause the car not to start ? or does it just turn the security light on ? my security light is always on ? so if there is a problem the car shouldn't start ? right ?

  9. #149
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    No one has been of any help on any of the other LS sites so I'm hoping i could get some guidance here maybe. I have been getting an intermittent security issue for about a year, its happened maybe 4 times. I get in the car, try to start it, no crank, security light is on. leave it alone for 3 or 4 minutes with the key out, light goes out, car starts right up, no codes.

    This time was a different story. Went outside to start my car for work, no crank but security light is on. check codes, have a p1626 code. wait a few minutes like usual, still nothing. Delete the code, no security light now, but the car still does nothing. Look at the key, resistor looks worn, get a new key made, key code 6 according to gm. Still nothing.

    Someone suggests i use a jumper wire in place of the starter relay, try this and i get a single click when i try to start the car. This is just a click, not the car cranking once, just sounds like click in the dash somewhere that I wasn't hearing before.

    Now I have no idea what to do because I know absolutely nothing about electrical. Does this sound like a case that the resistor trick that this thread is all about could possibly remedy the problem? If it is, can I use a single resistor or will i have to use a series of resistors like some people have used(pellet code 6 is 1470 apparently). Which resistor(s) would I need to use? Does this correct the BCM ignition and PCM fuel cutoffs or just BCM? Thanks

  10. #150
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Sounds like the resistor trick will solve your problems. It doesn't matter if you use one resistor or 10, as long as it adds up close to the correct resistance. You'll have to go to radio shack and look at the resistors and see what combo you can come up with.

    Also if you jumper the starter relay correctly, the starter should have cranked over. So double check your jumper, the relay itself, and the connections at the starter.

  11. #151
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    So now if I do like was stated in the first post with jamming the resistor in there, say I have 2 500 ohm and one 470 ohm resistor, do I just jame them all in there or do I have to twist em togehter and run the end of one into one contact and run the other end of another into the other contact and have them basically arcing together?

  12. #152
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    they need to be connected end to end twisted together.
    Like this
    ----500----@----500----@----470----

  13. #153
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr.fork View Post
    So now if I do like was stated in the first post with jamming the resistor in there, say I have 2 500 ohm and one 470 ohm resistor, do I just jame them all in there or do I have to twist em togehter and run the end of one into one contact and run the other end of another into the other contact and have them basically arcing together?
    like cutlass said...they should be in a series or end to end. I would personally solder them if you own a soldering iron.

  14. #154
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    I do own a soldering iron and I think since those will all need to be twisted together, I am gonna solder them but still put them in the plug. I plan on replacing the cylinder once I get the car home. The cars at my girlfriends apartment complex and me and her are on the verge of breaking up so its kinda coming down to the wire so to speak haha. Thank you both very much for the responses!

  15. #155
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soloontario View Post
    So I finally got back to looking at my fix for my security light issues. Originally the light would come on and the car wouldn't start. The light would stay on even after removing the key from the ignition. I would wait 3 minutes, the light would go out, and the car would start immediately with either key.

    Both keys measured 4750 ohms and I got a 1/4 watt 4750 ohm gold band resistor.

    Tried putting it in the back of the purple/blackand white wire and left the connector from the VATS to ignition lock disconnected. Car started immediately but the security light stayed on for a minute then went out after driving a short distance. The security light comes on again after driving any where from 5 to 20 minutes and stays on. The car always starts immediately and if the light had been out when I stopped ( i.e I was driving between 5 and 20 min) the car starts immediately and the light stays out for a few minutes then comes on again.

    Today I thought I might have another look at what was going on and considered soldering the resistor into the orange wrapped wires on the key side of the connector. Just to make sure that everything was going according to plan I pulled the resistor out of the purple wired connector and tried to start the car with the ignition cylinder to VATS unit disconnected. To my great suprise the car still starts and the light stays on with no resistor present !!

    What is going on here?? Why would the car start? ( I tried repeatedly and it worked every time) Why does the light go out and them come back on again?

    Is there something else in the VATS that is screwed up? (At least the car starts easily but I'm not crazy about having the light come on after 5-20 min of driving). Other than the faulty sensor in the ignition lock cylinder, what else triggers a security light?

    Another note is that if I have driven for more than 20 min i.e the light has gone through an on/off cycle and then back on again, and I stop the car. When I restart, the light comes on and does not go out after a minute. Seems as if the car needs to be stopped for 2 hours or more to go through an on/off/on cycle.

    BTW I have had the motion sensor in the R rear wheel well disconnected for years and it makes no difference if it is reconnected.

    I'm baffled.
    Some further input. After the above situation where both the resistor and plug were pulled apart, and yet the car started with the security light on, I replaced the resistor into the purple and white plug. Now full start, everytime and no light.

    I assume I must have had a bad connection the first time and been fooled into thinking it was a good connection because the car started. What really suprises me is that the car started no problem with the plug apart and NO resistor in place. The light stayed on all the time but the car started no problem. That is not supposed to happen.

  16. #156
    Member FirehawkM6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SandmanWs7 View Post
    I have been asked many times how to bypass the VATS. I have posted on another thread that if you run into this problem that you could send me a PM. But instead of replying to ALL those who have this problem, I have decided to do a write up.

    So if a MOD would do me/us the favor of making this a sticky here, or in the proper section, that would be great.


    I decided to do it this way because I did not want to cut my VATS system. I just wanted to be able to use my car till I got it fixed. I did fix the problem the correct way later. Which is by buying a new ignition cylinder and having it installed. BUT that is a $300.00 fix at the stealership. I was lucky to have a friend install mine for free.


    So lets begin......

    1. You need to know what resistance your key has before you even begin. Your f body has 1 of 15 keys that operate your car. It is up to YOU to find out which of the 15 it is. The best way to do this yourself is to use an ohm reader and measure your key. I would recomend testing both keys (if you have both sets) to get an accurate reading. To use the ohm reader to test your key, place the readers (one should be red and the other black) on the metal chips of your key. See picture. Your ohm reader will give you a measurement. Write this down. Do the same with the other key, and write it down. If both keys are good, you should get the same reading twice. If they are different then you will need to buy two resistors, one for each key. You will have to try the bypass twice to figure out which resistor will work for you. The part you are trying to measure is the small metal piece in the black oval.
    Click for full size

    2. Once you have the measurement go get your resistor. Price should be under 25 cents. Here are some sample resistors. Yours may be of a different color, so don't think that since yours doesn't look like this, that it is wrong. Mine was blue in color.
    Click for full size

    Then fold the wire like this...
    Click for full size

    3. Now time to go to your car. You will need to remove the bottom dash cover. It is held with two plastic clips and two screws (phillis head I believe). The plastic clips look like this.
    Click for full size and this..Click for full size
    And are located by your OBDII plug and above your E Brake. The two screw that hold it in place are further back.
    Click for full size

    4. Disconnect your trunk release switch. This makes it easier to do what is needed in the next steps. Like this you can pull the cover off and set it in the back seat, out of the way.
    Click for full size

    5. Now locate your wire harness that controls the VATS. It should have two wires. On set of wires has two white wires, the other side has one purple with a white line and the other one is white with a black line.
    Click for full size

    6. Disconnect the harness.
    Click for full size

    7. Insert your resistor thru the back side of the purple/white wire and white/black wire. There is no right or wrong way to put the resistor in. Just as long as you put one wire in each side. It should go ALL the way in. You want to be sure that the resistor touches the the wire inside.
    Click for full size

    8.At this pioint you are basically done. Go ahead and try to turn your car on. If your car does not start, pull the resistor out. Try to put the resistor in thru the front. Make sure that you can see that you are touching both metal pieces with the resistor. Try to start the vehicle now. If it does start, then you just need to keep trying to put the resistor in better from the back. I had to try putting in the resistor in three different times to finally get it in the right way. Sometimes it feels like it is in, but it is not. If you try it from the front and it wont start then you might have a key issue. New keys run around $60.00.

    9. Once you have installed the resistor and your car did start. Use some electrical tape to keep it in place.
    Click for full size

    10. Tuck away the wires and connect your trunk release switch. Replace the dash cover with the two screws and the plastic clips.

    Now you are done, so when ever you feel like spending the $300 or find someone to do the job for you cheaper you still have all the original wiring in place.

    This can also be used to do the remote start on your car, IF you have an automatic. Alarm stores can do this for you but will charge you close to $100.00, I know, I asked.

    This took me less than 30 minutes to do and all I spent was 8 cents on the resistor.


    THANKS !!!!............ i tried changing and testing EVERYTHING on my car ..... and this was it ... THANK YOU . id send you a 32 pack of beer through the mail but i dont think its possible to do that .......


  17. #157
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    Worked just like you said it would !!!

  18. #158
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    Anyone know if this works for '90 Formulas? My friend has one that I think might be having the same problem.

  19. #159
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    If it has a resistor in the key, then yes it will work

  20. #160
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    I just ran across this great information! My ta stopped turning over yesterday. I've not had time to troubleshoot it yet ... but I won't have to with this bypass. I've got a 6kohm chip on the key. I've got a 2.7k and 3.3k in series that I'm going to install in the next day or two.

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