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How to Bypass your VATS

This is a discussion on How to Bypass your VATS within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Is it cranking, or not doing anything when you turn the key?...

  1. #361
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    Is it cranking, or not doing anything when you turn the key?

  2. #362
    Junior Member CORYSTA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Is it cranking, or not doing anything when you turn the key?
    Not cranking at all.

    Everything works great when the ignition is turned to ACC or RUN. When I turn it to start it doesn't do anything. It doesn't try to start at all.

  3. #363
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    Ok - totally agree then with what 0rion posted. Only other thing would be to verify your key resistance and your bypass resistance. Depending upon the resistors you used, there can be anywhere from a 5% to 10% variance in stated vs. actual resistance.

  4. #364
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    I did that before I installed it and it was the first thing I did after the problem started.



  5. #365
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    Oh sorry I just went back and reread Orion's post. I completely disconnect the Viper wires from the vehicle yesterday. Tried both BCMs and still nothing.

  6. #366
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    Something may have been missed in the disconnect process. A ground perhaps?

  7. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Something may have been missed in the disconnect process. A ground perhaps?
    I did leave the Viper Power and Ground (And parking lights pain in the but to get to) connected, but with how I connected them I don't see how they could be interfering with anything.

    My power (for the Viper Alarm, not Remote Start) is connected to the empty battery slot in the fuse box.

    My ground is connected to the ground stud on the passenger side behind the kick panel. I didn't touch the factory ground setup up. It's a stud that has a lot of thread left. So I took an eyelet, placed it on the stud against the factory nut that secures the ground connection. Then I took another nut and secured my ground to the stud. Alright it sounds like this needs a picture. I'll get one.

  8. #368
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    Weird thing happened to me when I used the factory ground bolt with my volt meter to check something. I could NOT get a ground from the bolt as it seems to have a coating on it. The only way I got ground was going through wire with probe. Just a thought to check.
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  9. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by kingls1 View Post
    Weird thing happened to me when I used the factory ground bolt with my volt meter to check something. I could NOT get a ground from the bolt as it seems to have a coating on it. The only way I got ground was going through wire with probe. Just a thought to check.
    Thanks for the suggestion. I thought I checked it during the install, but I went and checked again. I'm getting 12V from a constant 12V+ source when using a wire off my ground.

  10. #370
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    The security light has stopped flashing.

    I had inspected the T connectors on the VATs wires. There was wire exposed, so I assumed I had a good connect.

    I took my wire strippers and uncovered a small length of wire for my T connecters to grab ahold of it. As soon as I did this the light stopped blinking :/

    well atleast she's running again. Thanks for all the help!!!
    pajeff02 likes this.

  11. #371
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    I did the VATS bypass this morning. I cut the white wires close to the connector and inserted one end of the resistor in the lug where one of the white wires was crimped and soldered it. Then inserted the other end of the resistor into the other lug that the other white wire was crimped in, and soldered it in. I left the white wire connector connected to the purple/black and white/black connector. This way, if I ever get the ignition switch replaced, the switch comes with the two white wires and connector. All I would have to do is disconnect the white wire/resistor connector and plug in the new white wire connector from the new switch. I could then keep the white wire/resistor connector in the glove box, just in case the switch started acting up again! Whatever you do, DON'T insert the resistor in one of the connectors AND reconnect the two connectors. If you do this, the BCM will be reading your resistor AND your key, will get an erroneous double reading and will not start. For example, if your key has a 1.13 ohms resistor value, and you installed a 1.13 ohm resistor in one of the connectors AND reconnected the connectors to each other, when you put your key in, you would get 2.26 ohms due to the key resistor value AND the resistor resistance value because they would be in series and would add up. Your BCM is looking for 1.13, and when it does not read that value, it won't allow the car to start. Note: the resisance value must get back to the BCM via the purple/black, white/black wires. You cannot attach the resistor to the white wires and leave the purple/black, white/black connector disconnected from the white wire connector. The BCM is connected to the purple/black, and white/black wires.

  12. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by herculesrider1 View Post
    I did the VATS bypass this morning. I cut the white wires close to the connector and inserted one end of the resistor in the lug where one of the white wires was crimped and soldered it. Then inserted the other end of the resistor into the other lug that the other white wire was crimped in, and soldered it in. I left the white wire connector connected to the purple/black and white/black connector. This way, if I ever get the ignition switch replaced, the switch comes with the two white wires and connector. All I would have to do is disconnect the white wire/resistor connector and plug in the new white wire connector from the new switch. I could then keep the white wire/resistor connector in the glove box, just in case the switch started acting up again! Whatever you do, DON'T insert the resistor in one of the connectors AND reconnect the two connectors. If you do this, the BCM will be reading your resistor AND your key, will get an erroneous double reading and will not start. For example, if your key has a 1.13 ohms resistor value, and you installed a 1.13 ohm resistor in one of the connectors AND reconnected the connectors to each other, when you put your key in, you would get 2.26 ohms due to the key resistor value AND the resistor resistance value because they would be in series and would add up. Your BCM is looking for 1.13, and when it does not read that value, it won't allow the car to start. Note: the resisance value must get back to the BCM via the purple/black, white/black wires. You cannot attach the resistor to the white wires and leave the purple/black, white/black connector disconnected from the white wire connector. The BCM is connected to the purple/black, and white/black wires.
    Not correct on the electronic math. The resistance would be half not double because the resistor would be parallel with the key's resistance; not in series. The contacts aren't "reading" the key's resistance anyhow (open circuit) which is why one is in there doing the work to begin with. ... I too would not backfeed the connector with the resistor(s) and leave it like that.

  13. #373
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    2001 Trans Am WS6

    Great thread, thanks to everyone with input. I actually had my security light on but the car still started for 4 months, I figured it wasn't VATS because the car started. After 4 months, my ignition switch (big one on the column, not the key switch) went out and I saw the broken wire while troubleshooting. Initially soldered the broken wire going to the key switch, security light went out but still wouldn't start until the whole ignition switch was replaced. My VATS fix only lasted a few months before one of the wires broke again so I did the VATS bypass.
    Used the white wires and soldered in the resistor, covering the whole mess with shrink tubing.

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