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How to Bypass your VATS

This is a discussion on How to Bypass your VATS within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Cutlass Are your fingers touching the leads while you are measuring? If so, then you are probably ...

  1. #181
    Aw shucks. bluefields88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    Are your fingers touching the leads while you are measuring? If so, then you are probably part of the measurement.
    This.

  2. #182
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    New member here. I was just having the same problem and was looking for clear instructions on how to disable the VATS when I came across this thread.

    I would like to add my 2 cents. You don't have to use several resistors. I work in the electronics industry and have known about this for years:
    You can easily make custom resistors by filing down standard sizes. The more you file down, the higher the resistance becomes.

    For an example take a look at:
    http://www.all-electric.com/schematic/res_trim.htm

    What you need to do is find the closest resistor value that is under what you need. You then file it to the exact value you need (it's called trimming). Cover the trimmed resistor with shrink tube or electrical tape when done to avoid it contacting and shorting to anything else.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ottoman View Post
    New member here. I was just having the same problem and was looking for clear instructions on how to disable the VATS when I came across this thread.

    I would like to add my 2 cents. You don't have to use several resistors. I work in the electronics industry and have known about this for years:
    You can easily make custom resistors by filing down standard sizes. The more you file down, the higher the resistance becomes.

    For an example take a look at:
    http://www.all-electric.com/schematic/res_trim.htm

    What you need to do is find the closest resistor value that is under what you need. You then file it to the exact value you need (it's called trimming). Cover the trimmed resistor with shrink tube or electrical tape when done to avoid it contacting and shorting to anything else.
    pretty slick.......

  4. #184
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    Ironically, my problem wasn't with the VATS at all. I had the combination of a dying battery and a bad starter that gave me the same symptoms.

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    Quote Originally Posted by ottoman View Post
    Ironically, my problem wasn't with the VATS at all. I had the combination of a dying battery and a bad starter that gave me the same symptoms.
    was your security light lit up? That's usually a dead sign that it's VATS related. I wouldn't worry about needlessly fixing it....at some point you were going to have too anyhow.

  6. #186
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    yea same here dead battery i got the one of another car light is gone

  7. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    was your security light lit up? That's usually a dead sign that it's VATS related. I wouldn't worry about needlessly fixing it....at some point you were going to have too anyhow.
    I had some really strange symptoms. When I tried starting it, my dash lights came on, the starter wouldn't even click and there was no fuel pump sound. I removed the key and the dash lights stayed on. I unlocked and relocked the doors remotely and the dash lights were still on. No interior lights and no headlights just the dash lights as if the headlights were on. I disconnected/reconnected the battery and the dash lights finally went out but it still wouldn't start. This time I noticed my security light was on after turning the key. That's when I started looking at VATS issues and came across this post. I cleaned the key and column switch with alcohol but it still wouldn't start. I tried the spare key and it still wouldn't start. I checked the battery with a hand held load tester and it was marginally low but not completely dead. I was getting ready for vacation so I didn't have time to deal with it and left it for a week.

    Now with a new battery and starter, there is no security light and it turns over and starts a lot faster than before. I noticed previously that starting it was becoming more difficult.

    I figure the battery was in a low voltage condition and was causing the computer to wig out. In electrical engineering terms, it was in a metastable state because it didn't have enough voltage. There were a lot of really strange symptoms. If the VATS is using a loop current detector to measure the resistance of the key then a low line voltage (battery) to the processor (computer) may not provide a high enough current across the key and the VATS would not disengage. This is mere speculation at this point but in any event it starts and appears to work now (it actually starts better). Since I now know how VATS works, perhaps I'll make a bypass plug and keep in the glove box in case it does fail in the future.
    It was certainly a lot easier to figure out these kinds of problems in my old 76 rally sport.

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    ........
    Last edited by Lunatikgixxer; 12-09-2010 at 12:22 PM. Reason: deleted

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    i have the same issue...security light comes on and stays on..it dosnt flash..i wait about 4 minutes the light goes off and i can start it...does it sound like a VATS issue...if the bypass method is possible in mine, how would i run the resistors iin series..kinda lost on that one...thanks for the help

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    yes...sounds like vats and the resistors run in a series.

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    series

    how would i do it? not sure what is meant by series..do i twist them end to end? can i take it to a audio store and have them solder them?

  12. #192
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    you can either twist and tape them, use a wire nut, or solder. Solder would hold much better but you would be fine even twisting and taping them I believe because they shouldn't move around or have stress on them when you're done.

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    well

    i went to the dealership and they told me i had a #9 key...so what resistors do i need to buy? i went to radio shack and they came in different sizes( 1/4. 1/8)..im trying to get it fixed tommorow

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    Quote Originally Posted by camaro96 View Post
    i went to the dealership and they told me i had a #9 key...so what resistors do i need to buy? i went to radio shack and they came in different sizes( 1/4. 1/8)..im trying to get it fixed tommorow
    you need to use an ohm meter and find out the value of the key. If someone knows the value of #9 he or she will chime in.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    #9 is 3010 ohms

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    Quote Originally Posted by camaro96 View Post
    i went to the dealership and they told me i had a #9 key...so what resistors do i need to buy? i went to radio shack and they came in different sizes( 1/4. 1/8)..im trying to get it fixed tommorow
    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    #9 is 3010 ohms
    this......and I would do the 1/4 watt resistor but either will work for you. I explained the wattage in this post:

    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    it really depends on what key pellet you have but the short answer is if you want to be safe go with the 1/2watt. The quarter watt will work on the majority but I'll give you an example using the lowest pellet resistance.

    ohms law is P=I*V which is power=current*voltage
    you have to solve for current first which is I=V/R
    lowest pellet resistance possible is 386ohms
    12v/386ohms=.03amps
    .03amps*12volts=.37 watts so P=.37 which is a little over a quarter watt.

  17. #197
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    so when i get these resistors it has to add up to 3010 ohms correct..and they need to be the gold ones and 1/4 right

  18. #198
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    yep....that's the jist of it.

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    Hello, Im new here, but as I am having some problems with dam VAT module, maybe you guys can help me.

    My 98 Camaro is staying in the Garage all the winter, so as I tried to start it in this spring It did not start at all, the Security light was permanently on too.

    I mesured the resistance of my key it was 4.750, bought resistor 4,7 one, cut the 2 white cables installed resistor (it is actually 4.64-4.65) as I found on http://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
    the reading can be between 4.560-4.960 so it should be fine?

    Ok after that it started, I tried multiple times no problems at all. Then after few days I wanted to move my car and it wont start again, security light went off like it should, but the car still not starting, had engine light on all the time....

    10 minutes later tried again and it was starting as it should...no security lights no engine light on...

    Can it be a problem with resistor, should I buy gold one...? Or may it be fucked up VAT module??

  20. #200
    Senior Member Lunatikgixxer's Avatar
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    if you say you fixed the vats and it worked then i dont see it being the vats... it has to be something else, the check engine light is always on when the car is off btw

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