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how acurate is G-tech

This is a discussion on how acurate is G-tech within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by 01Z28M6 I would like to tell you a few more things before you lay down the money. ...

  1. #21
    Junior Member Chuck02WS6's Avatar
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    2002 Trans Am Convertible

    Quote Originally Posted by 01Z28M6 View Post
    I would like to tell you a few more things before you lay down the money. The RPM is detected by the car's electrical field. The unit has to be calibrated properly and consistently to that field for the RPM to be accurate. On some cars this could be a problem. My RR model seems to work fine with the 2001 LS1 ignition but it has problems with my 95's opti-spark with a Mallory Hyfire box. There is an option when calibrating to let the unit know you have a spark intensifier but my recorded RPM on this car is out of whack. The HP and other features appear okay but I don't think the shift light feature would be useful if I were to choose that option. The 95 is an automatic so a shift light isn't necessary. Never the less, I thought you should know this.

    I haven't tried the method of turning all electrical components on when calibrating RPM because if I am reading the manual correctly, once calibrated in this manner, the RPM must be monitored with the same components energized. That isn't practical to test for performance with the wipers going and the A/C on etc..

    But with my 01 M6 the RPM and shift light function seemed to be accurate from the very first time I set it. The only thing though is I am sort of looking at the in dash tach which is not very accurate to judge the shift light performance. For me it is good enough whatever the actual numbers may be but for someone concerned about a few hundred RPM accuracy, it may not be good enough. To test the G-tech shift light against a calibrated RPM counter or another shift light would tell if it is correct. I hope this helps.

    I had better edit this message for my sig so you know what the RR model is used with.

    Glen,

    Thanks for the updated information. I would think that I wouldn't have a
    problem with my '02 M6 'Bird. All stock ignition, I would assume it would
    work very much like it does on your '01. I understand completely what you
    are saying in regard to factory tach, they certainly aren't known for their
    accuracy. I usually do my shifting at the track at a somewhat conservative
    RPM level, so I don't think a couple hundred RPM would be a huge factor.

    I just felt for a person such as myself who goes to the track a few times
    a year this might be the hot ticket for a shift light, take it out when it's
    not needed, plus have the additonal features of the unit to play around
    with. I know an actual hard wired shift light would probably be more
    accurate, but I'm hesistant to start cutting and splicing wires on a 7,000
    mile garage queen.

    Chuck

  2. #22
    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Ive got the very first generation of the G-tech as well. I too, used it at the track and it was a hundreth off.

    I tried doing the dyno feature, but I doubt thats accurate.

  3. #23
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    You have to enter in the vehicle's weight just right too. If you don't get the weight pretty dead on it'll throw the thing off.

    Honestly I don't really trust them. Maybe if you're trying to measure a gain of performance, but for the most part it's cheap for a reason. If you want #s go to the track/dyno.

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    Some tracks have scales so that might not be a problem. I used the GVW listed on the door and subtracted 4 X 180 lbs and then added my own weight. I can't attest to the accuracy but it does as you say, giving a performance scale. Also, to me $300 wasn't cheap. I believe it has at least 4 accelerometers whereas the early ones had two and no graphical display. Honestly, I'm impressed with the thing even though I've never tested it at a track; which I hope to do this spring. At least one magazine I remember gave it good credibility on the numbers and uses it to do testing when a track isn't available. The thing even calculates lateral g force for autocrossers.

    I always read the posts about the g-tech and for the most part, owners agree it can be practically dead on. The real difference will be trap speed as someone else explained. But your opinion certainly counts as it helps readers to take all things into consideration. Finding a level, straight, smooth and safe road to test on is difficult.

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    I agree $300 isn't that cheap but when you compare to the price of a dyno or the equipment at a track then yes it is cheap. If all you want to do is measure an increase in performance when you tune or install new parts then yea it's great. But it doesn't take the place of a track or dyno.

  6. #26
    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Wasnt there a competition to it? Tazzo or something?

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    The Competition model was essentially what the RR model is now; any difference escapes me. Someone loaned their G-tech Competition and I was sold on the gadget. I couldn't buy the Competition at the time so I went for the SS model; had it for a day and returned it for the RR which allows for up to 4 cars and can share run data.

    I think the Tazzo or Tesla is synonymous with the G-tech Pro model. It was an LED display with no buttons if I am not mistaken. They are still available on ebaymotors.

  8. #28
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    00 LS1, WS6, V8 Gremlin
    96 & 98 GTPs, 64 'Cuda

    The one I've got is LED but has a slide switch that also serves as a pushbutton.

    CONT-G's -- HP on the left
    INST G's, 0-60, 1/4 mile in the center
    OFF on the right.

    Anyone want to give it a home? $30 shipped via Priority mail.

    An aside, but if anyone knows someone that has an LQ1 '95 or back (before they changed the heads) I've got a virtually new Goodyear Gatorback timing belt, $12 shipped Priority mail.

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