hopefully someone here can help

**00camaro16** · 10-09-2008, 07:41 PM

I was hoping to get some insight on what I get to look forward too. I know its been asked a lot of times by many different people, but with all this money I’m dumping into my set up this winter I would really like it to feel justified by your guesses on rwhp, rwtq, and estimated ¼ mile times. The list of mods are as follows on a 2000 camaro ss.

- bbk throttle body (not a 90mm)
- granatelli mass air flow sensor
- summit air lid
- k and n air filter
- smooth bellows
- Texas speed torquer 3 cam (spec: 231/234 .643"/.598" 111 LSA)
o http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/item...d=669&catid=44
- ported and polished heads
- hedman longtube headers
- hedman y-pipe
- high flow cat
- magna flow exhaust
- 3,500 stall torque converter
- 3.73 rear end gears
- transgo shift kit
- Automotive fuel rails
- Will be dyno tuned by a shop after all is installed
-
Thank you for your insights.

chris

**0rion** · 10-09-2008, 09:06 PM

the first thing I would do is gut that list.
I would remove the MAF sensor and TB and port and polish the stock TB.
I don't have any experience with hedman headers on these cars so I can't comment on those really except that I would stick with something proven like pacesetters if you're going coated mild steel.
I would not do fuel rails but instead do a pump and injectors although I'd wait and see what duty cycle you're at with your stock injectors before swapping. I forget off hand whether the 00 cars got the 26# or 28# injectors. I know 98's had 28 and 99's had 26 but the 28's came back in either 00 or 01 I think.
I would add an underdrive pulley to your list along with a ported oil pump and hardened pushrods.
As far as HP, I couldn't tell you. Through a stalled auto I'd throw a guess out there of low 400's and there's a ton that would rest on what heads you get.

**00camaro16** · 10-10-2008, 02:35 PM

underdrive pullies is a no because my subs already like draining the battery, and all ready have hardend push robs and better springs, as for the tb and maf had to buy them any way and could get aftermarket for basically the same price as stock. i was thinking bout fuel injectors but i was gonna cover that when the time came that i needed bigger ones if i don't already. fuel rails again i just have to buy them anyways so i figured why not go with aftermarket. and i was already gonna go with a walbro (i think that's the brand) fuel pump. how do you port and oil pump is there a link you can send me? and lastly as for heads, i cant really afford that yet but will be coming up in the future.

chris

**sunsetorangess** · 10-10-2008, 02:37 PM

Like said above you should revise your list a bit, Also ditch the K&N Filter, there garbage, And also take a look at suspension if you havent already.
Sucks having power and not being able to put it down.
You can eliminate the shift kit, When you get it tunned you can have your tranny tweaked just about anyway you want.
J

**00camaro16** · 10-10-2008, 06:57 PM

ok any suggestions for the filter and lid? and i literally jst bought the shift kit an hour ago, kinda wish i would have know that first. and i really cant change the list that much i have bought most of the stuff already. money is tight so what i have bought will have to do for now and i can change things later, but like i said what i have is what will have to do for now. here is the list of what i havent got yet, im looking for your suggestions on what to buy on each for those of you who have been there.

- summit air lid
- k and n air filter
- ported and polished heads
- hedman longtube headers
- hedman y-pipe
- 3.73 rear end gears
- Automotive fuel rails

thanks
chris

**00camaro16** · 10-10-2008, 06:57 PM

o and any suspension suggestions

**sunsetorangess** · 10-10-2008, 07:36 PM

Headers= Pacesetter, Cheap price but great performance and sound and flow great.
Air filter= Just a cheap Fram paper filter will flow about the same with no issues.
Air lid= One brand is as good as the next.
3.73 rear gears, Wouldnt waste my time or money on the stock ten bolt. Its going to give. Save up for a 12 bolt..
Port and polished heads, Depends on what your ultimate goals are.
Maf and throttle body= Not unless your pushing upwards of 550hp at the wheels.
The 00-02 models used the 28lb injectors so i wouldnt worry about those. Instead like orion said pump.
When you do your cam swap i would reccomend new pushrods, springs and even rocker arms just to be safe.

**00camaro16** · 10-11-2008, 05:36 AM

that post is alot of help. thank for the advice, what about getting that power to the wheels?

chris

**Hurley711** · 10-11-2008, 06:16 AM

Sub Frame Connectors and LCA both will help tighten up the suspension by preventing flex and eliminating wheelhop
I like BMR Fabrications products

**00camaro16** · 10-11-2008, 06:27 AM

would a strut tower bar, or torque arm do anything. i thought the strut tower bar is for traction while turning

**Mr. Luos** · 10-11-2008, 06:35 AM

I would stick with your stock torque arm for now.
Many of us believe the strut tower brace is worthless...and I agree.

LCA's would be a good start, with the relocation brackets. That will really help keep the rearend in place and planted.

I am a UMI fan myself.
www.lmperformance.com normally has pretty good prices on their stuff.

**0verkill** · 10-11-2008, 07:29 AM

i am a big umi fan also and if you want a good set up for suspenson call are sponser sam strano at stranoparts.com he can help you with all your needs

**sunsetorangess** · 10-11-2008, 11:22 AM

Sub Frame connectors are a must, otherwise you will start to get the dimples on both sides in the rear. I was a victim.. I would recommend the weld in type but if you do get the bolt in type i would have them welded for extra strength.
I picked up a strut tower bar a while ago when the debate was going on. I honestly felt a little bit of a difference when turning but its not really justifiable with the hefty price tag. Your call thou.
J