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HELP ! Special way to remove rear rotors ?????

This is a discussion on HELP ! Special way to remove rear rotors ????? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Finally finished my front brake (just the passenger side) and moved on to the rear. I can't get the rotor ...

  1. #1
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    HELP ! Special way to remove rear rotors ?????

    Finally finished my front brake (just the passenger side) and moved on to the rear. I can't get the rotor off. I've smacked with full power with a hammer and other stuff but she wont budge. I;ve coated the thing with penetrating fluid and torched it for 10 minutes.

    Is there a special procedure? I can see the e-brake is internal like a drum brake back there so was wondering if that had anything to do with it. You guys will love to see the before after pics of the brakes !! but I'm stuck for now !!

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    Member Benner's Avatar
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    Is the parking brake down? IF so alot of times you just have to beat the shit out of them.

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    after a few whacks I realized I had it on but I took it off. still stuck. I'm going to leave the torch to it for 10 mins and eat some cereal. If anyone has any ideas plz post I'll keep checking here if I'm still stuck! thanks !

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    ok still no luck. I lowered the car to the ground so all the weight was on the rotor and shook the car. Still didnt move. I feel like I'm killing the rear wheel bearing (spindle?). Not sure what its called but ive been hammering so hard I can move the rotor including the lug bolts out and in just a tad. is this normal?

    any other ideas? debating on driving on the rotor !

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    ok still no luck. I lowered the car to the ground so all the weight was on the rotor and shook the car. Still didnt move. I feel like I'm killing the rear wheel bearing (spindle?). Not sure what its called but ive been hammering so hard I can move the rotor including the lug bolts out and in just a tad. is this normal?

    any other ideas? debating on driving on the rotor !
    Sounds like its stuck on the e-brake shoes.

    The wheel bearing should be fine, there is no spindle in the rear.

    Since you were pounding the rotor with the e-brake on (first mistake) the shoes are probably caught on the grooved lip inside the rotor. If you would have started pounding on it with the ebrake down, it probably would have came off aftr a few hammer blows. And yes, its normal for them to get really stuck on there.

    As for putting the weight of the car on the rotor, bad idea. Thats a good way to brake studs, damage the e-brake, and possibly damage the car itself. Don't do that again.

    Just keep pounding on the rotor. It should eventually break into pieces with enough hits, breaking it free from the lip of the e-brake shoes.

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    Thanks Wes. Does seem like something is stuck. is it ok that the rotor/lugs move a bit? kind of like play in a wheel bearing. the rotor is really siezed on it wont even budge at all. I've wacked so hard on the edges i've made a pile almost 2 lbs worth of rust bits. I'm shocked to say the least that this is a 8 year old car ! My olds aurora is driven year round and never had even close to this problem when I changed the rotors and pads.

    Should I hammer from the outside or get under and from the inside?

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    Thanks Wes. Does seem like something is stuck. is it ok that the rotor/lugs move a bit? kind of like play in a wheel bearing. the rotor is really siezed on it wont even budge at all. I've wacked so hard on the edges i've made a pile almost 2 lbs worth of rust bits. I'm shocked to say the least that this is a 8 year old car ! My olds aurora is driven year round and never had even close to this problem when I changed the rotors and pads.

    Should I hammer from the outside or get under and from the inside?
    The rotor should move on the lugs, that is normal. They do not fit tightly.

    Keep hitting on the outside of the rotor. Eventually it should facture and split, leaving you with multiple pieces that should come off much more easily.

    If the inside of the rotors are grooved that badly, you may need to look into buying new e-brake shoes as well.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    The rotor should move on the lugs, that is normal. They do not fit tightly.
    the rotor AND the lugs move together. Outwards/inwards say 1/10th of an inch. they haven't separated yet. Breaking the rotor is giving me hope I'm going to heat the rotor one more time and try hammering with some ear plugs in my ears and glasses on to protect from flying rust.

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    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    the rotor AND the lugs move together. Outwards/inwards say 1/10th of an inch. they haven't separated yet. Breaking the rotor is giving me hope I'm going to heat the rotor one more time and try hammering with some ear plugs in my ears and glasses on to protect from flying rust.
    That amount of movement is normal. Its just the axle sliding in and out of the diff.

    Good call on the safety measures. Do you have an oxycetaline torch?? Those work very well for things like this.

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    put the lugs on to protect the studs and hit the the face of the rotor towards the axle on the flange (between the lugs) keeping the face of the hammer flat to the rotor. A few strong blows from the hammer will break the rotor free from the flange.

    Do not heat the rotor or hit the outer part of the rotor.

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    thanks for the input guys ! I got it free ! I went to walk my dog down the street and left the torch on the rotor. when I got back (just a few houses down like 5 mins) the rotor was loose.

    Daddy Thanks for the tip too I am now on the other side and its stubborn too. The torch is on while I type this I'll try hitting between the studs but these rotors are worse than garbage since I am replacing them with new ones.

    I might finish late tonight but tomorrow I should have some before /after pics up !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5abivt View Post
    thanks for the input guys ! I got it free ! I went to walk my dog down the street and left the torch on the rotor. when I got back (just a few houses down like 5 mins) the rotor was loose.

    Daddy Thanks for the tip too I am now on the other side and its stubborn too. The torch is on while I type this I'll try hitting between the studs but these rotors are worse than garbage since I am replacing them with new ones.

    I might finish late tonight but tomorrow I should have some before /after pics up !!
    i hope whoever carries your homeowners insurance doesnt read this!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dklowrider View Post
    i hope whoever carries your homeowners insurance doesnt read this!
    No comment

    Still stuck on the drivers side front.. It just so happens to be the worst. the rotor is siezed on.. and its late so I dont want to hammer and piss off all my neighborhood. both pins were also siezed I just finally got 1 out... I;m tired I need to sleep !!

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    Get a bigger hammer and hit it from inside towards the outside!
    2002 Camaro Z28 Bolt ons, Flowmaster catback w/3" QTP electric cutout, Superchips tuned, Granatelli MAF, SLP cold air induction Lid & filter, ZEX powertune plugs, Taylor 10.4mm wires, 160 T-stat w/fan control, Eibach sportlines & BFG-KDW's on 17" SLP SS rims.

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    Thumbs up

    Also, for anyone else reading this and have not done your brakes yet, make sure you remove the little lock washers holding the discs on the studs. I had 3 on each wheel.

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    Quote Originally Posted by nillam1 View Post
    Also, for anyone else reading this and have not done your brakes yet, make sure you remove the little lock washers holding the discs on the studs. I had 3 on each wheel.
    Yep. All GM that era vehicles with BONE stock rotors will have these.

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