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Help with Prothane Tranny Mount

This is a discussion on Help with Prothane Tranny Mount within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; How long did it take for the Trans mount to "break-in" and have less vibration? i just finished replacing my ...

  1. #21
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    How long did it take for the Trans mount to "break-in" and have less vibration? i just finished replacing my torque arm mount and am going to buy a trans mount soon.

    my z is my summer daily driver and for weekend auto-crossing. does the trans mount make daily driving unbearable?

    98 Ticket Red Z28
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    Front/rear sway bars, poly bushings all around, Bilstein Shocks, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Pacesetter LT's, 2.5" Custom True Duals over the axle with Magnaflow mufflers, Shortened Pro 5.0 shifter, TurnOne PS pump.

  2. #22
    Senior Member TransAm11973's Avatar
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    prothane trans mounts suck......I just went through this whole ordeal.........I bought a energy suspension mount and its ao much better. It is much stiffer than the crap stock one but softer than the prothane one that caused huge amounts of noise and vibration on my car above 65mph......trust me get the ES one, DONT use the extra plate that comes with it and grind down the 2 bumps on the top of the energy susp. mount so its flush with the metal braket. If you have more ????? send me a PM......trust me that prothane mount was a piece of crap and a huge pain in my ass......
    Last edited by TransAm11973; 03-10-2008 at 06:57 PM.

  3. #23
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    i would say several weeks or a couple of months before i noticed a difference. I can tell you the stud bolt is not grade 8. They don't make the bolts, but claim they are grade 8, not according to the busted one I have.

    I have higher than normal vibrations due to a previously undocumented road accident. Judging by the bent parts, body scrapes, and such I would say a classic spin out into a ditch by the former owner, oops. I only get bad vibrations at 75 right now. It all depends on the temperature and how well the wheels balance out, plus 3rd vs 4th gear.

    I would agree you get a crap load of road noise and extra vibrations in the seats. I can't compare to energy suspension, sorry. I can say the prothane was a flush solid mount with no preload plates. i talked to the tech and he said bolt it up as is and if you don't like extra noise and vibrations then buy rubber.

    I can say it is way more tolerable now that I have a few months on it. I average about 250-300 miles every two weeks, not a lot. I just drive around the sweet spot of bad vibrations. Compared to a couple of PT cruisers I had that had worse vibrations at 45, this is not that bad.

    good luck. pick which ever one you like for the money, but you are worried save an extra couple of 20s and buy rubber. like i posted before, if your super picky like some of us don't buy it. if you are willing to drive around the sweet spot, then no big deal.

    i'm not an expert, but I sold two PT cruisers with worse problems at city speeds. And a poly mount is not that bad over time. Besides every car is different. My car never will be perfect. the previous owner saw to that,

  4. #24
    ...going to the darkside gspfunk's Avatar
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    Poly is always stiffer than rubber, so any mounts a person switches out for poly will create more vibration. I'm running Prothane motor and tranny mounts in my 90 Mustang. I had some vibration @ 75 or so, like the previous poster mentioned. I was worried that it was a drivetrain issue, but it went away at about 100 or so miles. No issues since.

  5. #25
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments.
    So i guess the consensus is that its a harsh ride for the first few hundred miles then gets better. but it seems to be drivable overall.

    does the car seem more responsive and aggressive than stock?

  6. #26
    Just a souped up sunfire. Ryans99LS1's Avatar
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    Would a prothane mount keep my tranny from moving on hard acceleration? Its fine for normal driving but as soon as i really get into it, it feels like my trans hits the floor board or torque arm. Its a real nice big thud.

  7. #27
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryans99LS1 View Post
    Would a prothane mount keep my tranny from moving on hard acceleration? Its fine for normal driving but as soon as i really get into it, it feels like my trans hits the floor board or torque arm. Its a real nice big thud.
    It will definitely help a lot. With the stock rubber mount, you can actually see the shifter move side to side when you get on or off the throttle. I have an energy suspension poly trans mount in mine, and the shifter barely budges at all regardless of how hard you're ripping on it. And the last thing you want is your entire powertrain shifting all over the place when you're running it hard.

  8. #28
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wesman View Post
    It will definitely help a lot. With the stock rubber mount, you can actually see the shifter move side to side when you get on or off the throttle. I have an energy suspension poly trans mount in mine, and the shifter barely budges at all regardless of how hard you're ripping on it. And the last thing you want is your entire powertrain shifting all over the place when you're running it hard.

    how harsh is the Energy suspension mount on daily driving?

    i have already done the torque arm mount and getting ready to do the trans mount. should both those greatly improve the transmission movement and acceleration response?

  9. #29
    The Bandit Wesman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raysz28 View Post
    how harsh is the Energy suspension mount on daily driving?

    i have already done the torque arm mount and getting ready to do the trans mount. should both those greatly improve the transmission movement and acceleration response?
    Well when I just had the poly trans mount and torque arm mount with stock motor mounts, I noticed very little difference in vibration. However, with the poly trans mount/torque arm mount/motor mounts, there is a lot more vibs coming into the cabin, especially at highway speeds. Around town its not bad at all though.

    As for transmission movement, its virtually non-existant with poly mounts, and throttle response is instantaneos.

  10. #30
    ...going to the darkside gspfunk's Avatar
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    Depending on miles, a stock replacement would probably even benefit you if you have that much movement. Poly is a good compromise between rubber and solid mounts. You want some amount of give in your bushings and mounts, or you are essentially putting the full brunt of the stress on the drivetrain parts. W/ poly, you get some flex which helps prevent damage to parts and reduces vibration over a solid mount. It will definitely have more vibration than the stock rubber, though, due to polyurethane's stiffer and stronger properties.

    As for response... The difference you notice is more power to the wheels since the rubber mounts/bushings aren't absorbing as much of it. Not phenomenal #'s, but some gain.

    I've used both Energy Suspension and Prothane, w/o any issues from either. Some people feel that Prothane's poly is a little harder, but I've never seen anything other than opinion to prove it.

  11. #31
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    Does anyone have any instructions for replacing motor mounts?

  12. #32
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    Does anyone know the GM 1LE motor and transmission mount part numbers?

  13. #33
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by raysz28 View Post
    Does anyone know the GM 1LE motor and transmission mount part numbers?
    OEM? I think I have them around somewhere. Crap, having a hard time finding them.

    Instructions? Search in ls1.com for motor mounts. Someone had a really good thread. Even a Haynes manual isn't half bad. The one thing i found was remove the O2 sensors, pre-cat.

    I also figured out you should tighten down one side until the other side is done. Unless you are doind OEM mounts. With the poly mounts I fowled the threads by not waiting until i had both sides done, DOH. If the bolts to the k-member are not threading nice and easy don't push it or you will end up like me, in the shop.


    Well, I just got done installing the driver's side mount and thought I would provide some feedback for others doing the same thing. For reference I have a 2000 SS with Grott 1-3/4" LT's, stock K-member, and stock steering rack. This was the Prothane LS1 poly mount p/n 7-512-BL (black) I got from Thunder Racing.

    Removal order went like this:
    1) Disconnect battery
    2) Raise front of vehicle on jack stands
    3) Remove serpentine belt
    4) Remove alternator (3 bolts, 2x15mm and 1x13mm)
    5) Remove engine mount heat shield mounted to motor mount-to-block attach bracket (2 bolts, 10mm)
    6) Place jack under oilpan to support engine while motor mount is out
    7) Loosen the motor mount through bolt
    8) Jack up engine slightly to relieve load on the through bolt.
    9) Remove through bolt.
    10) Loosen and remove bolts holding "pedestal" bracket onto K-member (4 bolts, 15mm)
    11) Loosen and remove bolts holding motor mount to engine block (4 bolts, 13mm)
    12) Slide engine mount "clamshell" out.
    13) Drill out 2 rivets and 3 press rivets from clamshell and remove the stock rubber insert. As slick98ta mentioned, the rubber insert is bonded to the metal so you have to work at it some. The Prothane instructions say to use a torch to heat the rubber for removal, but I just pried it loose. Make sure you clean up the excess rubber crap that gets left behind. I just used an X-acto knife.
    14) Insert the poly mount in the clamshell. The Prothane setup has you install 4 3/8" bolts (included with the mounts) where the rivets used to be to bolt the clamshell back together. Torque those to 30 ft-lb (per instructions).
    15) Installation is the reverse order.

    Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:

    - "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
    - engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
    - engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
    - engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
    - engine mount heat shield nuts - 89 in-lbs
    - forward alternator mount bolts - 37 ft-lbs
    - rear alternator mount bolts - 18 ft-lbs

    * Note that I didn't have to remove the Grott header or the steering linkage (although doing so would have made it much easier I think).
    ** Also the Prothane mount fit perfectly - no washers needed. Just make sure you get the 7-512 part number.
    Anyway, I took the car for a test drive and the Y-pipe banging is notably improved. I still get a "tap" on a hard shift with the Ram 910 clutch, but no more banging on clutch chatter, etc., like before. Since I'm running cats too I have almost zero clearance on my Y-pipe. If you have 1/2" clearance or so I imagine this would eliminate any banging. Car idles smoother now too. I feel some more vibration through the chassis, but overall car feels smoother (this is with hotcam idle) and shifter hardly moves now.

    Overall I would say a very nice improvement. Figure about 3-4 hours if you take your time. Hope this helps.

    Now I'm going to work hard at reducing my supply of Bud Light

    EDIT: Updated to add passenger side info

    I've been very happy with the driver's side only Prothane mount, but decided I wanted to install the passenger side also. I just got finished doing that this evening and I wanted to update this post. The process for the passenger side is basically the same as the driver's side except that the A/C compressor needs to be removed first. This goes as follows (assuming vehicle is already on jackstands):

    1) Remove A/C belt from below.
    2) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C compressor to mounting bracket. The top two you'll have to get from above and the bottom two bolts from below. Once the compressor is loose just push it forward as far as you can - the swaybar makes a good resting place. Make sure you unplug the electrical connector to get some additional clearance.
    3) Remove 4 bolts (15mm) attaching A/C bracket to engine block. You can get all of these bolts from below once the compressor is out of the way.

    At this point you have the necessary access to the motor mount brackets. Just remove and install as noted above for the driver's side. The service manual tells you to remove the starter as well, but I didn't have to do that. Maybe this is necessary with the stock exhaust manifolds or if the motor mount through-bolt is installed from the rear for some reason.

    Installation is reverse order.

    Torque specs (from my 2000 Helms Manual) are as follows:

    - "pedestal" bracket-to-K-member bolts - 43 ft-lb
    - engine mount bracket-to-block bolts - 37 ft-lb
    - engine mount through bolt - 70 ft-lb
    - engine mount through bolt nut - 59 ft-lb
    - A/C compressor bracket-to-block bolts - 37ft-lbs
    - A/C compressor-to-bracket bolts - 37 ft-lbs

    Haven't had a chance to drive it yet (the weather sucks here right now), but will update again with first impressions.
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  14. #34
    Senior Member kool-aide's Avatar
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    [QUOTE=raysz28;1356283]Does anyone know the GM 1LE motor and transmission mount part numbers?[/QUOTE

    Sorry I can't find the part numbers. I got them by calling a local dealer. Oh wait I know where I can get them. My quote from the shop that finished the work for me,

    22174970 1 Mount, Transmission, Bill Heard 97.31T
    22179268 2 Mount, Driver side and Passenger side engine, Bill Heard 178.46T

    that should be the parts.

  15. #35
    That guy thearborbarber's Avatar
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    I just followed transam11973's advice. I measured the height of the factory and the height of the energy suspension one and it was 3/16" taller that factory. I ground off the two bumps on the bottom and then the heights matched. I installed the energy suspension and I don't have any extra vibration or noise (I have a trans tunnel torque arm). Plus I didn't rake the grade 5 bolt that came with the energy suspension mount.

  16. #36
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryans99LS1 View Post
    Would a prothane mount keep my tranny from moving on hard acceleration? Its fine for normal driving but as soon as i really get into it, it feels like my trans hits the floor board or torque arm. Its a real nice big thud.
    After my long tube header and off road ypipe install I'd have a ypipe banging issue under hard acceleration. Well later on I needed to replace my tranny mount... I ended up going with the prothane one. It was stiff as hell at first but I kinda liked it... It was WAY better than the loose tranny moving every where. Anyhow I torqued it down like the directions said and after I guess a few hundred miles it really softened up and now it feels like it's supposed to! I have the motor mounts sitting around, but I'll wait till my factory one's die to install.

    For the tranny mount, I love my prothane.

  17. #37
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    Same here after installing urethane transmission mount bushings. Lots more vibration, but the stock rubber ones were getting trashed on a regular basis. On the bright side, your wife/girlfriend won't want to drive it anymore (just kidding ladies...)!

  18. #38
    Internet Tough Guy Fury_786's Avatar
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    it will vibrate forever...and ever...and ever. thats just the nature of the beast.

    if you want a real harsh ride, lower it and get some poly LCA bushings

  19. #39
    SS#430 1 of 74 7camaro7's Avatar
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    I've got those too and my SS isn't overly stiff at all

  20. #40
    Member raysz28's Avatar
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    I installed the Poly trans mount last week. and now that all the salt is off the roads i was able to test drive it. i can really tell a difference, but its not too rougher at all. i thought i would have alot more vibration.
    after the inspection of the stock trans mount i did notice a few cracks after 115k miles. the motor mounts will be in the future.
    thanks for the help

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