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Help!! !i may have hydrolocked engine after head install!!!

This is a discussion on Help!! !i may have hydrolocked engine after head install!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by pajeff02 What is your idle rpm? If you slowly crack the throttle open what happens? It idles ...

  1. #101
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    What is your idle rpm? If you slowly crack the throttle open what happens?
    It idles perfect, right around 900 to 1000 rpms........

  2. #102
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    The pop is no longer coming from the intake manifold...it seems like its coming from the engine/exhaust........I did notice that my O2 sensor P0153 came up....BUT then when i switched to the LS6 manifold AND let the car idle AND warm up to operating temp....it never came back on......just the P0107! It's also very cold in Zona right now.....I'm sure that explains the O2 sensor code.....

    I also read where the P0107 code shouldn't cause our cars to run bad.....lt simply means theres low voltage, which means TOO MUCH vacuum! Someone care to clarify this? What would cause to much vacuum?

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    What is your idle rpm? If you slowly crack the throttle open what happens?
    As I slowly press on the gas, the random POP happens....it's very loud......I can hear it more from the engine/exhaust as opposed to the intake area..........maybe my O2 is the cause?

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    The pop is no longer coming from the intake manifold...it seems like its coming from the engine/exhaust........I did notice that my O2 sensor P0153 came up....BUT then when i switched to the LS6 manifold AND let the car idle AND warm up to operating temp....it never came back on......just the P0107! It's also very cold in Zona right now.....I'm sure that explains the O2 sensor code.....

    I also read where the P0107 code shouldn't cause our cars to run bad.....lt simply means theres low voltage, which means TOO MUCH vacuum! Someone care to clarify this? What would cause to much vacuum?
    you know...you're correct. I read that code description wrong. Low voltage is higher vacuum than expected. Do you have any diagnostic software like hptuners or anything like that? That 153 code is nothing to worry about right now...common code with headers especially once the sensors age. Get the car running right before worrying about that one. I can't imagine that code not having an impact on how the car runs. Although the car does primarily use the MAF it references that map for several things including timing. If the map isn't reading correctly I just can't see it not effecting the way the car runs.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    you know...you're correct. I read that code description wrong. Low voltage is higher vacuum than expected. Do you have any diagnostic software like hptuners or anything like that? That 153 code is nothing to worry about right now...common code with headers especially once the sensors age. Get the car running right before worrying about that one. I can't imagine that code not having an impact on how the car runs. Although the car does primarily use the MAF it references that map for several things including timing. If the map isn't reading correctly I just can't see it not effecting the way the car runs.
    Your right Orion....at this point I'm not sure what would've caused my symptoms....it's not like my engine is throwing any other codes. I think I will purchase a scan tool....this may help me diagnose the issue......what's the best scanner I could use to assist? I saw you liked the actron 180 version......I was thinking about getting the gm tech 2 scan tool. It's pricey, but would be very intuitive.......

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    Also, would a scan tool tell me what my engines compression is? What other values would a scan tool help me with?

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    Basic scan tools can only read codes and reset the SES light. More advanced scan tools can view real time sensor data. GM Tech II can do it all and then some. None of them will read engine compression. If you do not want to spend the money for a compression tester, you may be able to rent one from Autozone or such.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Also, would a scan tool tell me what my engines compression is? What other values would a scan tool help me with?
    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Basic scan tools can only read codes and reset the SES light. More advanced scan tools can view real time sensor data. GM Tech II can do it all and then some. None of them will read engine compression. If you do not want to spend the money for a compression tester, you may be able to rent one from Autozone or such.
    Like Jeff said, you can't check compression while the motor is running. Requires you to remove the spark plug and insert a probe that connects to the pressure gauge.

    Parts places rent them for $40

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Like Jeff said, you can't check compression while the motor is running. Requires you to remove the spark plug and insert a probe that connects to the pressure gauge.

    Parts places rent them for $40
    Yeah, thanks guys for the replies......at this point I'm going to clean all of my electrical connections and test the map sensor......btw I just purchased the actron cp9580 and it appears to read live engine data......when i plugged it in with the engine not running, it said my map voltage was at 3 volts.......it also said my O2 sensors were running rich/lean.......I'm interested to see what it reads once my engine is idling.....

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    one more thing I forgot to add in the instructions....

    pull the fuel pump fuse other wise you'll start the motor with the compression checker on and you don't want that.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Yeah, thanks guys for the replies......at this point I'm going to clean all of my electrical connections and test the map sensor......btw I just purchased the actron cp9580 and it appears to read live engine data......when i plugged it in with the engine not running, it said my map voltage was at 3 volts.......it also said my O2 sensors were running rich/lean.......I'm interested to see what it reads once my engine is idling.....
    Look at your O2 % and post those numbers. Also maf in g/sec & your spark advance

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    A properly functioning narrowband O2 sender will rapidly cycle up and down when you watch its output in millivolts (mV). The fuel trims will also give you an idea of what is going on.

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    Ok guys i started the car up again, but it still shakes heavily....I removed my valve covers and all rocker's were still at 22 ft/lbs.......however my passenger side valves, springs, retainers all seem to have coolant in them.......I'm going to take a picture and post it momentarily.......

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Ok guys i started the car up again, but it still shakes heavily....I removed my valve covers and all rocker's were still at 22 ft/lbs.......however my passenger side valves, springs, retainers all seem to have coolant in them.......I'm going to take a picture and post it momentarily.......
    Antifreeze in the valley???? Not good. You should see nothing but clean fresh oil in there. Iam thing bad, or defective head gasket. Maybe improperly torqued head bolt sequence? Very important multi step procedure to get this correct.

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    Coolant on top of the heads? That is very odd. I can't think of anything that would result in that... other than a cracked head.

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    Did you do an oil & filter change after reinstalling the heads?
    Last edited by SMWS6TA; 01-23-2013 at 09:18 AM.

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    ^^ Good question.

  18. #118
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    Ok guys here is an update.......I pulled the motor apart and reinstalled the factory heads and LS6 manifold........started the car up and it still shakes, pops, and misfires. The big "thump/clunking" noise I hear every second or so is definitely coming from the block/internals.......I spent two days and massive hours taking it apart again, but I can't seem to figure out my issue.......I noticed that the two front passenger bore/ cylinders were full of black smoke/carbon !! It looks Like i may have fried the piston rings?......I don't see how I could have done that....... It's the same black carbon that saturated my plugs........


    I'm positive I'm going to have to pull the motor out, and I'm not sure it's worth the effort......the engine has 79,000 original miles on it.......just really bummed out at this point........not sure which direction to go......

    How does one mess up an ls1 by just trying to start it after an install! Lol

  19. #119
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    Ok guys I think a compression test is my next step here. There is no other explanation as to why my vehicle is not starting or having a rough time idling with all the clinking noises every second..I now know there is nothing wrong with my cylinder heads after this latest install, so now it's a matter of nailing down which cylinders lack compression, and going from there.

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    Oil and filter has been changed throughout.......

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