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Help!! !i may have hydrolocked engine after head install!!!

This is a discussion on Help!! !i may have hydrolocked engine after head install!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by jb3golf Although the pressure should hold at 58ish.....right? Correct. In fact, with my new Racetronix Fuel Pump ...

  1. #41
    Moderator 35th-ANV-SS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post
    Although the pressure should hold at 58ish.....right?
    Correct. In fact, with my new Racetronix Fuel Pump my pressure reads steady around 60PSI most of the time, but will occasionally see 57-58PSI.

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Ok guys here is my update:

    1. Cranked the engine after fuel pump fix, still doesn't start. More popping, shaking of engine.

    2. Next, I have battery checked; it has insufficient cranking amps (from all the cranking I'm sure). I get the battery fixed, still the same result with engine behaivor.

    3. Next I decide to pull all the spark plugs out; there ALL wet, oily and some of them smell like gas. I researched and it seems the flooding/fuel issues probably contributed to this.

    4. Next, I clean all plugs with wiring brush, brake parts cleaner, and compressed air. Reinstall all plugs and guess what? The car combusts much faster, starts for a couple of seconds, but still pops and can't stay running.

    At this point guys I'm worn out. I think I've performed enough labor in the last 4 weeks to take a vacation! Lol

    Is it possible that the spark plugs became inoperable? My wires are brand new......

  3. #43
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Also, when the plugs were out I was able to turn the engine over by hand and it rotated perfect, no sounds of friction or internal failure....that's good news....


    Not sure where to go from here........

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    Junior Member chevuman260's Avatar
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    Has the computer been retuned for the new upgrades?
    2001 Camaro Z28 - AFR210 V2 Heads, JPH Cam, Fast 102mm intake, TS 100mm MAF, NW 102 TB, FTP 104mm lid, kooks 1 3/4 Long tubes, custom Y pipe w/dump, BMR LCA,TQ. Arm,PH bar, lca bracket,k member, Upper/Lower A arms, AFCO shocks
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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevuman260 View Post
    Has the computer been retuned for the new upgrades?
    That's what I was going to ask.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
    421 CI LQ9, Tick Performance Custom Cam, TFS 255cc LS3 heads, Kooks 2" LT headers, Kooks 3" True Duals w/ high flow cats, FTP 104 lid, Speed Density Tune, 4" silicon tube, LS6 VCT, FAST 102 Intake, NW 102 TB, Oil Catch Can, SLP Bilstein Shocks w/ Vogtland Springs, CTS-V 4-piston Calipers w/C6 Z06 rotors, Stainless Steel Brake Lines, R1 concepts premium rotors, Hawk HP+ brake pads, VFN WSQ Hood, C5-R timing chain, SLP oil pump, E85 tune, Walbro 450 fuel pump, Deatschwerkz 95# injectors, Breathless performance headlights, Frost Tune, !HVAC.
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  6. #46
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    That's what I was going to ask.
    No it has not. However, I don't see how that could cause all the problems I'm having. Especially after all the issues I've found and fixed thus far. Plus the tuning for the 224r cam and intake/full bolt ons I had done several years back is still running the computer.

    I changed the stock heads to AFR, the NW tb, and fast 92 intake.....plus remember the car did start and idle perfect for about a minute several days ago before starting pop/stumble/no start condition.

    I realize there's a lot more airflow going on, and will need a tune. But it should still run and combust correctly. I'm going to pull a plug shortly to see if it's still clean....the fact my car started so much quicker (albeit for a 2-3 second interval) and combusted faster, tells me I'm on the right track. I think I will install all new plugs..this will at least rule out defective plugs I MAY have. The plugs I cleaned yesterday were practically new...is it possible that all the oil/fuel wet residue on the plugs destroyed their ability to create necessary spark even though they were cleaned? We will see guys....I appreciate everyone's help on this thread.....it's keeping me from getting too disappointed........

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Again, it's the popping noises that are so prevalent right now......This misfiring has to be either the plugs, wiring, or coil packs.....I'll update you guys later tonight after the install............

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    Junior Member chevuman260's Avatar
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    Did you change injector size?

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Hate to hear that didn't fix your problem....you never did say what hose you replaced the stock one with. Hopefully sae30r10 and not 30r9. I'm still sticking with my initial thoughts that it's either a timing problem or a huge vacuum leak. Anyway you can record some video so we can hear it popping and sputtering? Leaned out because of a fuel issue will do that but it sounds like you have pressure at the rail now correct? verified the injectors are all buttoned down correctly? No issues putting the top of the motor back together as far as lifters, pushrods, and rockers?

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    Quote Originally Posted by chevuman260 View Post
    Did you change injector size?
    This is exactly what I was thinking too.

  11. #51
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevuman260 View Post
    Has the computer been retuned for the new upgrades?
    No, it has not........but when I performed my first rebuild in 2009, it took me a week to get it tuned, but it still ran until the tune was completed....

  12. #52
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by chevuman260 View Post
    Did you change injector size?
    No I did not. I have 36lb injectors ready for installation, but I read that the computer will not recognize the different values. I read where one should install the new injectors when the tune is performed.........

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    Hate to hear that didn't fix your problem....you never did say what hose you replaced the stock one with. Hopefully sae30r10 and not 30r9. I'm still sticking with my initial thoughts that it's either a timing problem or a huge vacuum leak. Anyway you can record some video so we can hear it popping and sputtering? Leaned out because of a fuel issue will do that but it sounds like you have pressure at the rail now correct? verified the injectors are all buttoned down correctly? No issues putting the top of the motor back together as far as lifters, pushrods, and rockers?
    I am getting sufficient fuel at the rail; it shoots to 58psi and holds steady at about 51-52.....so the replacement hose I used (came with tre performance pump kit) fixed that issue.....

    I only replaced the heads and manifold, so I didn't have to touch the lifters....the pushrods/rockers were installed correctly.l.torqued the rockers to 22-23 ft/lbs.....I will probably pull the injector rail off, but visually, everything looks correct..

    Currently I'm throwing a p0107 code (map sensor)...so I am about to install a new sensor..but like you said Orion, the car should still run on speed density....l

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    Im also about to change my car battery.I know this isn't the main issue here...But I realized the battery I have now is rated at 550 cranking amps! That alone must be making other parts work harder...why I purchased that battery at wal mart I'll never know.....our cars require a minimum of 525 amps, so go figure.......

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    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    I still don't get fellas, why my car started and idled perfect for a minute before it started popping etc......makes me think one or more of my plugs were fried from the flooding and cranking.......I mean why would it start, all gauges read perfect on my dashboard, and all of a sudden.....pop/stumble/sputter?

    That sounds like the plugs couldn't hold spark for more than a minute, based on them being flooded with gas and carbon........then, last night I clean the plugs, install, recrank engine, and car fires right up but quickly pops/stumbles still.......sounds like some of the plugs were fried............

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    Well, with a new intake and better flowing heads, your engine is requiring more fuel. If your injectors are maxed out, this could be an issue. Your stock injectors have to be at the ragged edge of being beyond the recommended 80% duty cycle. Just thinking out loud.
    It's on jackstands.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jb3golf View Post

    Currently I'm throwing a p0107 code (map sensor)...so I am about to install a new sensor..but like you said Orion, the car should still run on speed density....l
    I am pretty sure if the MAP sensor is bad it will not run speed density, it needs that sensor in order to do that. It will run in speed density mode with the maf unplugged however. When my MAP sensor was bad it wouldn't even stay started.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    wait...in post 8 you said their was a problem with the MAF not the MAP. There's your problem.....you need to fix that MAP sensor. It will cause exactly what you're describing. Funny how 1 little letter can be such a difference but in this case the difference between an F and a P is huge. Fix the MAP and you'll fix your problem.

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    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    Well, with a new intake and better flowing heads, your engine is requiring more fuel. If your injectors are maxed out, this could be an issue. Your stock injectors have to be at the ragged edge of being beyond the recommended 80% duty cycle. Just thinking out loud.
    he has a 98 so he has 28lb injectors. He's fine with that 224 cam. I run the 228R in mine and my duty cycle was still good enough.

  20. #60
    Member jb3golf's Avatar
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    Ok Orion, sorry if I misspelled that....! One quick note: I installed a new map sensor 2 days ago; but the car still didn't start.....and my p0107 still came up.......I returned that sensor and purchased a new one earlier today......From researching it seems that my fuel filter could be part of the problem as well.......im going to change the fuel filter, the map, the battery and see what my results are.....I'm curious to see if changing the filter will increase my fuel pressure to stay at 58 instead of dropping to 51-52.......if it is clogged, it could be contributing to this.......

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