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Help!!!!

This is a discussion on Help!!!! within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I have a Craftsman thread chaser kit -- works great....

  1. #41
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    I have a Craftsman thread chaser kit -- works great.

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    So I used my arp thread chaser and it came out virtually clean every time.....the only stuff that was on it was a couple of gasket specks from scraping the head gasket off. I find it very hard to believe that my threads are clean. I may use brake cleaner and see if that helps. If not I don't know what to do.
    1998 Trans Am WS6 - Phantom
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  3. #43
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    I use brake clean and blow it out with compressed air (if it's a blind hole).

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I use brake clean and blow it out with compressed air (if it's a blind hole).
    Okay that is what I'll do then. Since it's coming out clean for me.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 12-05-2012 at 10:34 AM.

  5. #45
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    98 T/A w/a little mods...

    I used a shop vac to vacuum up as much loose crap as I could around the head, tops of pistons and ran over all the bolt holes too.

  6. #46
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    Yep, I use the shop vac too. Does a great job of getting any loose stuff that may be hiding. If it's an open hole for a head bolt, it will suck antifreeze right out of it, lol.

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    Moderator 98TransAmWs-6's Avatar
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    I will use my shop vac and tape a straw to it for the holes to make sure I get everything. Anyone have any clue as to why my bolt holes are super clean. They didn't even have coolant in them and if you shine a light down it looks brand new, no dirt or grime that can be seen at least.

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    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    dirt & grime I figure because they were put together in a sterile environment at the factory. Mine look mostly clean too minus the liquid.

  9. #49
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    Sterile is the key. Can't be too clean when it comes to assembling this stuff. Clean clean clean.

    It's never the tear down or assembly that takes long, it's all the cleaning a prep work in between that takes all the time.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 12-05-2012 at 01:20 PM.

  10. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Sterile is the key. Can't be too clean when it comes to assembling this stuff. Clean clean clean.

    It's never the tear down or assembly that takes long, it's all the cleaning a prep work in between that takes all the time.
    It's cleaning the piston tops and cylinder walls that is going to take the most time for me. I have already used a little more than whole can of brake cleaner on the bolt holes . I have three more I plan on emptying to make sure everything is nice and clean.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    It's cleaning the piston tops and cylinder walls that is going to take the most time for me. I have already used a little more than whole can of brake cleaner on the bolt holes . I have three more I plan on emptying to make sure everything is nice and clean.
    I use an air powered wire wheel to hit the piston tops and make quick work of it. In some severe cases of oil soaked pistons and alot of carbon buildup that stuff gets crystalized and hardened to the point where simple solvents don't even put a dent in it.

    I simply cover the rest of the engine with a large towel or even mask off the other cylinders to keep debri out. Bring the piston you are working on to top dead center and wire wheel it. Then use a shop vac to suck anything out that might be around the ring lands. Then rotate the engine to bring the piston down and wipe the cylinder wall out with a clean towell and move onto the next one.
    As the engine is constantly rotated for the next piston I keep an eye on the cylinders I've finished and continually wipe the cylinders with a clean towell for any debri that the rings bring back to the top and leave there.

    By the time you get to the 8th piston everything you've worked on to that point will be squeaky clean. I've done it this way for years on many engines we pull the heads on. Quick and easy.

  12. #52
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Dropped heads of to get cleaned up & vacuum tested to make sure the valves/springs are still good. The shop that is doing it is only charging me $15.

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by 98TransAmWs-6 View Post
    It's cleaning the piston tops and cylinder walls that is going to take the most time for me. I have already used a little more than whole can of brake cleaner on the bolt holes . I have three more I plan on emptying to make sure everything is nice and clean.
    I use an air powered wire wheel to hit the piston tops and make quick work of it. In some severe cases of oil soaked pistons and alot of carbon buildup that stuff gets crystalized and hardened to the point where simple solvents don't even put a dent in it.

    I simply cover the rest of the engine with a large towel or even mask off the other cylinders to keep debri out. Bring the piston you are working on to top dead center and wire wheel it. Then use a shop vac to suck anything out that might be around the ring lands. Then rotate the engine to bring the piston down and wipe the cylinder wall out with a clean towell and move onto the next one.
    As the engine is constantly rotated for the next piston I keep an eye on the cylinders I've finished and continually wipe the cylinders with a clean towell for any debri that the rings bring back to the top and leave there.

    By the time you get to the 8th piston everything you've worked on to that point will be squeaky clean. I've done it this way for years on many engines we pull the heads on. Quick and easy.
    Will a dremel with a wire wheel attachment suffice? That is what I have.

    I cleaned the gasket off the block and cleaned all the big bolt holes on the passenger side.



  14. #54
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Will, why did you remove the ac hose? You need to cap them to help prevent moisture build up.


    Looks like mine....



    FBJ, could you post a pick of the wire brush you're talking about? I keep thinking it is a metal brush when I suspect you mean something else.

  15. #55
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Dremel has enough speed, but I'm not sure you would have much of a wire wheel on there to do much good. All the dremel attachments I've seen are very tiny.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    Will, why did you remove the ac hose? You need to cap them to help prevent moisture build up.


    Looks like mine....



    FBJ, could you post a pick of the wire brush you're talking about? I keep thinking it is a metal brush when I suspect you mean something else.
    Because I am deleting my AC I haven't finished taking the box behind the dash yet.

    I do have a compressor too, if you could post a picture of the attachment I might pick one up.
    Last edited by 98TransAmWs-6; 12-07-2012 at 09:33 AM.

  17. #57
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Firebirdjones View Post
    I use an air powered wire wheel to hit the piston tops and make quick work of it. In some severe cases of oil soaked pistons and alot of carbon buildup that stuff gets crystalized and hardened to the point where simple solvents don't even put a dent in it.

    I simply cover the rest of the engine with a large towel or even mask off the other cylinders to keep debri out. Bring the piston you are working on to top dead center and wire wheel it. Then use a shop vac to suck anything out that might be around the ring lands. Then rotate the engine to bring the piston down and wipe the cylinder wall out with a clean towell and move onto the next one.
    As the engine is constantly rotated for the next piston I keep an eye on the cylinders I've finished and continually wipe the cylinders with a clean towell for any debri that the rings bring back to the top and leave there.

    By the time you get to the 8th piston everything you've worked on to that point will be squeaky clean. I've done it this way for years on many engines we pull the heads on. Quick and easy.


    How does a wire wheel differ (better) from a wire brush?


    I've read a lot of guys are using mineral spirits to help clean the gasket residue and carbon build up. Yes/no?

    I'm not afraid of oil contamination because I plan on doing an oil change anyways because of coolant getting into the pan and also because it's due.

  18. #58
    Moderator Firebirdjones's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    How does a wire wheel differ (better) from a wire brush?

    Air power vs man power

    Mineral spirits will work, that's what I use in my parts washer. Not extremely strong but does remove grease and grime without removing paint. It also leaves a residue behind that you definately don't want on a gasket sealing surface. Great for the parts washer on bare metal parts because the oily residue will also keep things from rusting.
    If you want to clean and scrub with mineral spirits, that's fine, but after you're done I'd wipe over the surface with brake clean or laquer thinner to remove any residue for a good gasket seal.

  19. #59
    Spaz is My Mentor SMWS6TA's Avatar
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    I guess I mean is if you don't want to use a wire brush because it will damage the heads and block then why use it on pistons?

  20. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by SMWS6TA View Post
    I guess I mean is if you don't want to use a wire brush because it will damage the heads and block then why use it on pistons?
    Won't hurt the pistons at all. You'll find that some of that stuff gets caked and crystalized on those pistons from extreme heat and simple rubbing with a rag isn't going to clean it up. It might get the lighter stuff off, but you'll be there a long time trying to get the hard stuff off.

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