Header studs...??

**2000dreambird** · 03-04-2013, 08:29 PM

Hey guys looking into these, has anyone tried them?
ARP is like $135.00..!

LS1 LS6 LS3 LS7 LSX Stainless Steel Header Studs | eBay

***pajeff02*** · 03-05-2013, 03:37 AM

I went with Stage 8 locking header bolts. They worked great and by modifying the tabs slightly, I was able to keep all of them tight against the header tubes.

**2002ssslp** · 03-05-2013, 06:08 AM

Make sure you have the room to use studs.

***Firebirdjones*** · 03-05-2013, 06:20 AM

Like mentioned, you need the room to pull the header in and out, and straight off the head. If it's close to the steering components, frame, or any other obstructions, you may not clear the studs. Sometimes depending on tube design the studs may be too long to even get the nut on there.

They are nice however if you can use them, especially on aluminum heads. Nice to be able to just stick the gaskets and the headers on there and they stay put while you fiddle with starting the nuts.

***pajeff02*** · 03-05-2013, 06:21 AM

Keith, I thought about that too. You could actually put the headers up in place and then screw the studs in. They are only supposed to be finger tight. Of course, if they seize up in the future, and do not come with a recessed allen head (I didn't look at the link), there could be issues.

**2000dreambird** · 03-05-2013, 10:24 PM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

I went with Stage 8 locking header bolts. They worked great and by modifying the tabs slightly, I was able to keep all of them tight against the header tubes.

How did you modify the tabs?

**2002ssslp** · 03-06-2013, 08:39 AM

Originally Posted by pajeff02

Keith, I thought about that too. You could actually put the headers up in place and then screw the studs in. They are only supposed to be finger tight. Of course, if they seize up in the future, and do not come with a recessed allen head (I didn't look at the link), there could be issues.

Jeff, I hear what you are saying but if you have to screw in the stud, then place a lock washer on, then put a nut on and tighten the whole deal it makes for more work and the stud itself with have to tighten in the head to allow the nut to tighten. I only use studs when I have to such as heads, main bearing caps and I like to use them on oil pans. JMHO

***pajeff02*** · 03-06-2013, 11:41 AM

I tightened the header bolts to the recommended torque (or a close estimate for the ones I couldn't get a torque wrench on) and then placed the tear drop shaped tab over the head of the bolt. After eyeing it up, I would grind away just a bit of the tab so that with the bolt torqued to spec the tab would be up against a header tube. I then tightened the bolt just past this point, slipped on the tab and c-clip, and then backed it off until the tab was firmly in contact with the header tube.

**kingls1** · 03-07-2013, 10:49 AM

I went to GM got all new stock replacement bolts, torqued to spec. Ran the motor let cool a little added 1 pound and retorqued, No leakes ( use factory GM gasket also )