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  1. #1
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    1998 Camaro SS

    Header question.

    Just ordered some Pacesetter long tubes and don't wanna use the U shaped clamps for the header Y-pipe connection. Gonna go with the wrap around type. Question is should I get 3" or 3.25"?

  2. #2
    Pathelogical Liar BlackLT1Z28's Avatar
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    94 Camaro Z28

    3" band clamps

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the quick reply.

  4. #4
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Retired Outlaw Sum Bitch

    3 inch...tighten the shit out of em....run it...get em hot.....then let em cool off.....loosen em up....and then retighten em......

  5. #5
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    06 duramax

    and then it'll probably still leak. Band clamps just won't seal up as well....at least mine don't. The big plus to them is they don't damage your exhaust at all so if you ever pull the exhaust which you probably will at some point the pipe won't be crushed and you won't have to cut it out and reweld it in. Like Sarge said. Tighten the shit out of 'em then cycle them and tighten them again. This last time I used some exhaust wrap underneath the clamp and that helped a ton. Mine have been off and on a dozen times so they're stretched a little is my problem. You'll be able to get a decent seal but just realize if you have some small leaks it just kinda comes with band clamps. They're definitely the way to go though if you ever plan on removing the exhaust.

  6. #6
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    Yepp i had the same issue, some exhaust tape and a few turns got them to seal like a dream.
    J

  7. #7
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    2000 Formula

    Quote Originally Posted by sunsetorangess View Post
    Yepp i had the same issue, some exhaust tape and a few turns got them to seal like a dream.
    J
    The exhaust tape is a good ideal, although I have found that regular aluminum foil works pretty good as well. Just wrap the joint and put the clamp on. No leaks. You'd think that the foil would be so fragile that it would rip, but if you fold it over a couple of times and then wrap the joint, it seems to hold up fine....at least it has for me.

    I am against welding up the exhaust for the very reason that was already stated...If you need to work on something that requires you to pull off the exhaust, it would be a major PIA to get that welded exhaust off.

  8. #8
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    Nobody has tried some hi temp silicone like RTV? I'm just gonna put a bead of that around the connection and let it dry a little then put the clamps on.
    I've even used it on header gaskets that I couldn't get to seal. Does a decent job.
    I'm against welding too. I believe if you weld it takes a lot of flex out of the exhaust causing headers to leak sooner than they should.
    I had a car that the whole exhaust was welded at every connection never would stop blowin header gaskets. I cut the exhaust and clamped everything and all was good.
    Last edited by DeadLifter; 12-23-2007 at 06:20 AM.

  9. #9
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeadLifter View Post
    Nobody has tried some hi temp silicone like RTV? I'm just gonna put a bead of that around the connection and let it dry a little then put the clamps on.
    I've even used it on header gaskets that I couldn't get to seal. Does a decent job.
    I'm against welding too. I believe if you weld it takes a lot of flex out of the exhaust causing headers to leak sooner than they should.
    I had a car that the whole exhaust was welded at every connection never would stop blowin header gaskets. I cut the exhaust and clamped everything and all was good.
    yep, tried hi-temp RTV. Didn't work as well as you might think. Wrapping the joints is by far the best way to go. The aluminum foil is a pretty decent idea although I'd wonder if it would just burn out of there over time.

  10. #10
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    1969 Z28 JL8 crossram, #'

    Just take a couple empty beer cans and cut them apart to use as a wrap. They help seal up the connection pretty good and don't cost anything as long as they're empty!

  11. #11
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    I'm guessin foil would burn out eventually. I'll try cans with a bead of silicone on each end.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeadLifter View Post
    I'm guessin foil would burn out eventually. I'll try cans with a bead of silicone on each end.
    You guys may be right. I put the foil on a few years ago and haven't had any problems, but then again, I have not put alot of miles on the car in those years.

    In all honesty, I got the idea from an article I read about installing a Borla cat back. The article stated that Borla included an aluminum wrapping similar to gum wrapping to install on the joints under the clamps. The article gave the impression that it was kind of cheezy, but it did work. So I thought, what the heck, can't hurt!

    I kind of like the beer can idea! May have to give that a try!

  13. #13
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    3 inch...tighten the shit out of em....run it...get em hot.....then let em cool off.....loosen em up....and then retighten em......
    Why would you do that?
    I just tighten with an impact gun and your done. I never get leaks.

  14. #14
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 0rion View Post
    and then it'll probably still leak. Band clamps just won't seal up as well....at least mine don't. The big plus to them is they don't damage your exhaust at all so if you ever pull the exhaust which you probably will at some point the pipe won't be crushed and you won't have to cut it out and reweld it in. Like Sarge said. Tighten the shit out of 'em then cycle them and tighten them again. This last time I used some exhaust wrap underneath the clamp and that helped a ton. Mine have been off and on a dozen times so they're stretched a little is my problem. You'll be able to get a decent seal but just realize if you have some small leaks it just kinda comes with band clamps. They're definitely the way to go though if you ever plan on removing the exhaust.
    Try the Accu-Seal band clamps. They are the best.

  15. #15
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    When using band clamps, you must have a crush point on the pipe. Meaning, the pipe must have a slit. If it doesn't, the band clamp will most likely not seal and cause the band clamps to stretch from to much movement within the joint.

    Also, if you want to get slip fit connections apart, always apply copper anti-siez before connecting the slip fit joints. It is high temp and will not burn away.

  16. #16
    Member Sunset T/A's Avatar
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    Installed band clamps on TWO different systems, ended up taking them off, throwing them away, and using regular U-style clamps. NO more problems.
    2002 Sunset Orange TransAm 6 spd.
    http://www.mustangmods.com/data/1327/dadsigpic2.jpg

  17. #17
    2004 HEAD/CAM CTS-V 9t8z28's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sunsetta View Post
    Installed band clamps on TWO different systems, ended up taking them off, throwing them away, and using regular U-style clamps. NO more problems.
    And where did you use em? What kind of connection was it?

    There are certain kinds of connections that you are unable to use band clamps on.

  18. #18
    Life in the Fast lane sunsetorangess's Avatar
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    aluminum foil,,, Hmmm not a bad idear, Lol i never would have thought of that actualy but now im curious.
    J
    2001 SS, Its not the car its the Driver that matters....

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