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head lamp door control module

This is a discussion on head lamp door control module within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Hey yall. Pulled my head lamp control module today, because my passenger side lamp does not go up or come ...

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    head lamp door control module

    Hey yall. Pulled my head lamp control module today, because my passenger side lamp does not go up or come on at all. I replaced the motor several times and nothing. So i pulled the module. Is there a way to fix this cheap or do i have to bite the bullet and buy a new one from gm parts direct?
    SLP LT's, ORY, Flowmaster Catback, MTI Clear Lid, TB bypass, LS6 Intake,PP TB, Ram Air Mod, Tune, 3:73's, Deleted Cats, Deleted EGR/AIR

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Also i pulled apart the module to see what it looks like inside. I tried to post some pics but they will not upload for some reason.

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    To post pics, you need to upload them to a free photo sharing site like Photobucket or Image Shack. Then simply copy and paste the [IMG] code for the pic into your post on here. If you need a diagnostic for the headlamp control say the word and I'll dig my books out. I would suspect a wiring or ground issue, but it very well could be the control module.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Ok ill do that in a little bit. And as far as a diagnostic im ready when you are bro. I had issues with that motor and looked at all the wires and did not see any thing burnt or melted. The light nor the motor works on the passenger side.

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    Passenger side headlamp door motor should have light blue and a dark blue wires that run from the module to the motor. Light blue is "up" and dark blue is "down". I would start by disconnecting the harness at the motor and jumpering a hot wire from your battery to your light blue wire on the motor (not the module) and see if the door goes up (assuming it is in the down position). Only use a momentary touch to see if the motor runs the door up. If this works, try and power it down by jumpering the dark blue wire on the motor. If the motor works with the jumpers, then it is likely a bad control module as the doors are not independently powered. If the jumpers do nothing, then check and see if you have a good ground connection by running a continuity test from the motor to the negative battery post.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Ok im gonna try that today. And ill let you know something. Thanks jeff.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Hey jeff, i jumped a wire from the other motor and it worked fine. Im thinking a bad control module, also my light will not come one while the harness is connected. Could the bad module affect that also? The driver side motor works perfectly and the light comes on as well...just the passenger side is the one with all these problems.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Thats the pics i finally got. Sorry it took so long. The car is a 1999 and i have never changed this part.

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    I do not have access to my manuals this weekend to check the schematics, however, I do not recall that the light circuit and motor circuit were interconnected in any fashion. Obviously, they are both activated by the switch, but that was the only common point. Any chance your ground connection on that side is corroded or bad?

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Hmmm now that you mention it water used to get into the connector. It didnt corrode much though. And my headlights did dim very low a few times.

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    The headlights should light independent of the door up/down, for example if you turn the lights on, and the door stays down, the headlight should still light.
    I had to replace the connectors that go to the bulbs on each side. The weirdest symptom was once I lost a ground connection, and all 4 bulbs lit dimly.
    Check the connectors right at the bulbs too.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Ok the motor is new/remanufactured from autozone. I replaced this motor twice thinking i got a bad motor but after jumpering a wire from the other motor, it worked. So the motor is good. I have even thought about cutting the connector off and use butt connectors to see if that works...but i dont want to go fight autozone for another motor. Im at my wits end with this shit. All the wires look great and nothing is fried or melted. I have done the sealed beam conversion on the car, and it has melted a few male connectors, but thats it. Im leaning more towards a fried connector....is there any way i can pop the wires out of the harned connector and put it back together?
    Last edited by TransAmFanatic; 07-03-2015 at 05:36 PM.

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    Just for giggles, grab a piece of wire and hold one end to the negative battery terminal and the other to bare metal on the headlight assembly and see of that makes any difference (you are just creating a known good path to ground).

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Give me a sec.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Earlier when i had the car running with everything hooked up (module, motor and lamps, the negative wire and terminal got very hot, damn near burnt my fingers.

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    Heat is a sign of electrical resistance. You have something going on with your wiring - either corrosion or a poor connection.

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    Great...how the hell do i find out what is causing it?

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    Pull apart the connectors and inspect them with a flashlight for both corrosion and tension on the terminals. Then use a multimeter to check your ground - touch the probes together to establish a baseline and then compare this to when you touch the negative battery terminal and the ground wire in the harness connector (with it unplugged - on the vehicle side of the connection).

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    Stang Killer TransAmFanatic's Avatar
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    I gotcha, gonna have to ask my friend to borrow his volt meter again. Ill get it from him tonight, and update you tomm.

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