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Had my rear brakes replace, got questions/issues

This is a discussion on Had my rear brakes replace, got questions/issues within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Brake history: Front rotors and pads replaced April 2004. Rear Pads replaced June 2004. November 2005: Had a local brake ...

  1. #1
    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Had my rear brakes replace, got questions/issues

    Brake history: Front rotors and pads replaced April 2004. Rear Pads replaced June 2004. November 2005: Had a local brake shop chain replace the rear rotors, pads, and calipers on my 01 Z28. Both rotor were warped and I was vibrating like crazy when I braked. The shop said the replacement rotors are a step up from a stock delco replacement (forgot the name brand, but they're not slotted or anything). The pads are Bendix titanium ceramics (replaced under warranty from the June 04 job) and the calipers were just stock replacements. Total cost after tax was $395

    My issue is that the brakes actually seem softer now then they did before I had them changed. Is this normal? I think that I've got to press the pedal further towards the floorboard to get the same bite I did on the old brakes. I'm worried that maybe the front brakes are doing more work now then before. I'm wondering if there may have been in error when they installed the new calipers, maybe they lost some brake fluid or something. Am I being paranoid?

  2. #2
    quicky06
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    check your brake fluid level and if thats good you probly need to bleed your lines,

    iehter that or ouneed to break them in

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    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by quicky06
    check your brake fluid level and if thats good you probly need to bleed your lines,

    iehter that or ouneed to break them in
    The shop didn't bleed the lines, I beleive. Someone else told me that might be the problem as well. They should have done that as part of the procedure, right?

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    You need to bleed them. Shops cheese dick a lot of jobs and figure if they didn't open the brake lines then there's no reason to bleed'em...which is true in theory. I always bleed them after I do my brakes, but that's just me. Going to a shop for brakes is not only overpriced, but all they do is sqeeze in the caliper pistons without opening the bleeder...so all the dirt and brake dust in the fluid gets pushed into your lines. Sometime down the road you'll have problems and will need your lines completely flushed.

    But yea...bleed them farthest to closest from the master cylinder...so RR, LR, RF, LF...that's how I do it anyway. Takes 2 people doing it the old school way...they also sell one man bleeder systems. Try that and if it doesn't feel any better...get some hawk pads..they have more bite.

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    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
    You need to bleed them. Shops cheese dick a lot of jobs and figure if they didn't open the brake lines then there's no reason to bleed'em...which is true in theory. I always bleed them after I do my brakes, but that's just me. Going to a shop for brakes is not only overpriced, but all they do is sqeeze in the caliper pistons without opening the bleeder...so all the dirt and brake dust in the fluid gets pushed into your lines. Sometime down the road you'll have problems and will need your lines completely flushed.

    But yea...bleed them farthest to closest from the master cylinder...so RR, LR, RF, LF...that's how I do it anyway. Takes 2 people doing it the old school way...they also sell one man bleeder systems. Try that and if it doesn't feel any better...get some hawk pads..they have more bite.
    Do you know of any place that has a step by step how to do this service? I checked out ls1howto.com and fbody.com install guide, didn't see it.

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    Chiltons service manual. I would go with the best brake fluid you can get. I run Wagner everything on my car including their DOT 5.1 brake fluid.

  8. #8
    WS6BIRD
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    you can always gravity bleed the brakes of there is no one to help. also make sure to use the correct brake fluid. dot 3 and dot 5 don't mix.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
    You need to bleed them. Shops cheese dick a lot of jobs and figure if they didn't open the brake lines then there's no reason to bleed'em...which is true in theory. I always bleed them after I do my brakes, but that's just me. Going to a shop for brakes is not only overpriced, but all they do is sqeeze in the caliper pistons without opening the bleeder...so all the dirt and brake dust in the fluid gets pushed into your lines. Sometime down the road you'll have problems and will need your lines completely flushed.

    But yea...bleed them farthest to closest from the master cylinder...so RR, LR, RF, LF...that's how I do it anyway. Takes 2 people doing it the old school way...they also sell one man bleeder systems. Try that and if it doesn't feel any better...get some hawk pads..they have more bite.
    You're right about that, except he said they replaced the calipers so they HAD to bleed the brakes. It doesn't mean they did a good job bleeding them and some cars just have more air in them than others, so you have to bleed them really good.

    Keep in mind, it's never a bad idea to bleed the brakes again, but with new pads cals and rotors it is typical to have a soft pedal until they break in.... no pun intended... I'd try gravity bleeding them for about 10 minutes making sure to keep checking the level of the fluid so your master doesn't run dry, then check the pedal. If its still soft do a bleed, maybe 3 or 4 pumps at each corner the way SevereDistortion explained above.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thewilldog
    Do you know of any place that has a step by step how to do this service? I checked out ls1howto.com and fbody.com install guide, didn't see it.
    Bleeding brakes is real simple...

    First make sure your master cylinder is full.
    Have a buddy or your wife get in the car and turn the ignition ON but do not start it.
    Have that person push down on the pedal one time and hold it.
    Gently open the bleeder screw on the right rear caliper and you should notice air and probably bubbles come out. At the same time the pedal inside the car should drop to the floor. Make sure they HOLD the pressure until you close the bleeder screw.
    Once you've closed the bleeder, have the person inside the car pump up the pedal till it feels hard and tell them to hold it. Usually 3 or 4 pumps and they should notice the pedal getting harder and harder to push down.
    Now open the bleeder again and you should notice more brake fluid coming out now. Repeat this process until you don't see anymore bubbles coming out then close the bleeder and proceed to the left rear caliper.
    Then the right front and finally the left front.
    Just remember to make sure the person in the car does not release pressure on the pedal until you tighten the bleeder screw everytime. Oh and don't get any brake fluid in your eyes or on the paint job.
    Brake fluid does disipate (sp?) with water...

    Goodluck... Oh and make sure to check your level of fluid in the master after each caliper and refill as necessary, and top off when your finished... oh and for God's sake make sure the lid of the Master Cylinder is on tight while you are bleeding the brakes or you could ruin it.

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    Member Thewilldog's Avatar
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    Ok, that's more then once I've been warned not to ever let the master cylnder drain to nothing. Why, what will happen if that occurs?

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    Senior Member SeVeReDiStOrTiOn's Avatar
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    If it drains..you'll have to bleed the abs....fun fun

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    Quote Originally Posted by SeVeReDiStOrTiOn
    If it drains..you'll have to bleed the abs....fun fun

    What are some symptons indicating that you need to bleed the abs?
    I have had my pads replaced about 2 months ago. I was approaching a light, saw a police man on the corner, in order not to run a potiental red light, I had to get on the brakes heavy. As the car slowed down I felt the brake pedal kick back for a split second, but the ABS light never came on. Any solutions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by WS6BIRD
    you can always gravity bleed the brakes of there is no one to help. also make sure to use the correct brake fluid. dot 3 and dot 5 don't mix.
    How do you check which kind of brake fluid the car has?

  16. #16
    99PontTA
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    let me tell you a big mistake most people make when bleeding brakes after a rear or frt caliper change.they only bleed the rear if thats where they changed the calipers.Todays brake systems are split...that means its almost impossible to bleed only half the system alone.Here is THE TESTush down on the brake pedal...then try to pump it up....does the pedal get firmer and come up higher? if it does that means its a mechanical problem.If the pedal stays soft and low its got some air in the lines someplace.To properly bleed it you will need to bleed off both the frt and rear.Either open the bleeders and let it sit for an hrmMakung sure you keep the mas cyl full OR open both the frt and rear bleeders and push the pedal down,hold it and close the bleeders.This will stroke the mas cyl full its complete stroke forcing all the air out.If you only open the rear bleeders the frt half of the system will pressurize brfore you can get a full stroke on the mas cyl.BEFORE YOU CHIME IN AND SAY I"M WRONG TRY IT!...i've been down this road many times.

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