Had the car for 3 days and already problems.....

[MillWS6]

As stated in the title, I recently bought a 2000 Ws6 from an older gentleman in Michigan. When I went to check out the car I took it on a thorough drive and made sure to check out all the vital components. The most I could find wrong was the A/C needed recharged and the passenger window motor was toast.
Anyways...
After driving the car 250 miles home and about 100 miles the next day I parked it in the garage. Hopped in the car to go on an evening joy ride and could not get it to go in reverse. After some work it finally slipped in and I just shrugged it off and chalked it up to reverse always being a b****. Driving down the road later I notice the car is a little harder to shift and I have to have the clutch completely mashed to the floor for it to shift smoothly. As it sits now it won't go into reverse while idling and it's a huge pain to get it in first. If the car is off I can stroll the gears no problem. Tried turning the car on while it was in reverse and it began to move backwards with the clutch pushed completely down. From my understanding this is most likely due to the clutch not disengaging? Have any of you had a similar problem? He (PO) said he just had all of the clutch fluid changed and lines flushed so I'm wondering if it could be as simple as bleeding the lines or a little worse, replacing the master or slave cylinder. Any advice would be great....

[SMWS6TA]

I would check to see if it was bleed properly first. It is either air in the lines or the slave cylinder is shot. How many miles on the car?

[MillWS6]

There's only 66k on the car

[raynor139]

GM systems are a pain if not bled properly especially if he has a aftermarket master cylinder like the tick performance one on the car. My master wasn't bled properly after having the clutch changed and reverse was just about impossible to get into at times. Finally got to the point it wouldn't shift out of first.

I would try rebleeding the system and if that doesn't work look at the master and slave cylinders. The master if stock is pretty bad about going out.

[pajeff02]

As stated, the stock clutch hydraulics can be an issue. Most members upgrade to a Tick unit with a remote bleeder, if I recall correctly. Diagnose and fix the issue before you tear something up in the transmission. It is a 15 year old car, so having issues with a wear item is not unexpected. As to the power window, that is also a very common issue. Replacing the motor and upgrading the wire harness is your best fix.

Let us know if you have any other issues. The members on here have been through it all and like to assist.

[cammed goat]

When my slave went, I had the same issues. Wouldn't go into gear while running, but would easily go into gear when off. As stated above, re-bleed the system. Do you have any wetness between the trans and engine?

[MillWS6]

Maybe I got extremely lucky or this was a sign of some more problems to come down the road but I was able to fix the problem by simply opening the clutch fluid reservoir. As soon as I twisted the cap off a good amount of pressure was released. Went back and got in the car and she's shifted smooth as can be since. Right before I bought the car the guy said he had all of the fluids changed so there was most likely just a bubble that needed to work it's way out. I brought the car into work (Ford dealership) a few days later to have them throw on my SLP LM2 and they checked over the components and found nothing leaking or out of order.

[pajeff02]

Simple fixes are the best. Keep on eye on things though as a failed clutch in the middle of a busy intersection is a wonderful thing. Been there... done that!

[SMWS6TA]

at least you didn't have the nightmare I had. I had done replaced the slave while I installed a LS7 clutch kit at the time. I thought I bleed it good but was still having some issues so while at work took it to a shop near by and they said they could do it $60. Ok no problem, I come back later in the afternoon and everything worked great. A week or so later I started having really bad issues, I happen to be at a Sonic cruise in and one of my buddies said my MC reservoir cap was missing. I thought he was pranking me but no it was off the MC. It turned out the shop can't read English. Instead of Dot 3 brake fluid they put in ATF. The rubber cup swelled so much that it popped the cap off. I realized it was ATF because of the color and also ATF will do that to rubber. So I got it home and made some calls to the shop which they ignored me. I then show up and get into a heated argument, all in front of a room full of customers. I also had my phone recording it as he said I could never prove it was them, Really? I have the receipt where it shows you charged me ATF fluid on a manual car. He threatens me with the cops after 3 customers leave and I said fine I want them here too. After a few more mins of me demanding their regional manger number he refused. I find it out and give that one a call as well as the Corp HQ. Regional MG calls me back fairly quickly. I calmly go over it with him and he's asking me what will make it right. I told him all the clutch hydraulics need to be replaced and it will not be at one of their stores. He bulked and I simply stated refund me the costs or I hire a lawyer and it starts getting more expensive to resolve. I got a check in 2 days time...

[pajeff02]

Had that happen to my Ford Ranger one time and lost the clutch 35 miles from home. Was able to make it through the city and all the way home in third gear. Turned out the shop that replaced the clutch slave had done the same thing and dumped some kind of oil in the reservoir. It was like the one time I let someone else work on one of our vehicles... never again.

[V84ME]

I've had that same clutch issue several times. The first was on the trip home from picking the brand new car up from the dealer. Once the problem starts, the only solution is replacement parts. I tried sucking out fluid using a 1/10" OD line snaked down the master cylinder, then almost a quart of fluid thru the top, and out the trans bleeder screw. Before I installed a remote bleeder, I would bleed the system at every other oil change. THAT seemed to work. But, when the clutch disc broke a spring, it was time to add a remote bleeder.