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"grinding" headlight motor - again

This is a discussion on "grinding" headlight motor - again within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; I've had the problem before with the plastic gear losing teeth (I think) and then we just turned the gear ...

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    Junior Member MSTZ TA's Avatar
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    Question "grinding" headlight motor - again

    I've had the problem before with the plastic gear losing teeth (I think) and then we just turned the gear to prolong having to replace it. I've had this done a few times and now I think I may have the same issue again, but a different twist.

    This time, when I switch my selector to the fog light location, my headlights also come on??? What would cause this to happen??

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    Junior Member MSTZ TA's Avatar
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    Went to the Project Trans Am site...it's that damn gear again. I'll be ordering the brass replacement asap.

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    414 RWHP 395 RWTQ
    00 Black Ram Air Trans Am

    My brass ones are awaiting install, let us know how it works out if you get 'em. I've heard good and bad about the BFranker brass gears.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    <~Installed the brass gear

    Well, I installed the brass gear about 2 months ago on my passenger side. And it started grinding last night. Only this time, my light wont go down at all. Not to mention the very same times it grinded before that all of us know of.

    Now I read the instructions AND downloaded the vid. And let me tell you, when you begin to pry the motor cap off, its NOT easy. I tried to be careful yet forceful since this is NOT a serviced part. After I got it seperated, the plastic looked like minced meat. However, it said in the instructions its not un-common. Anyway, after everything is installed, it is clearly said that with the epoxy that is delivered witht he gear, that "less is more" cliche does not apply to this. So, I made sure every section was covered with the included epoxy. Then I put two, yes thats right TWO quick grips on each side of the motor cap and let it sit overnight. Next morning, reinstalled everything and it worked. Now it doesnt.

    Why? Dont know yet. Wont have time to find out either until Saturday. I am NOT going to fight the mosquitos at 9pm+ in FL.

  5. #5
    Ws6Noob
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    I just finished my brass install tonight. What a B*tch that was. Worked on it for about 4 hours and the FL mosquitos started to get me aswell =)

    All in all it wasnt too hectic just alot of reaching around and scrapeing my fingers up. But it seems to work fine "knock on wood" hopefully it'll hold up.

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    Senior Member Hurley711's Avatar
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    414 RWHP 395 RWTQ
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    What tools did everyone use? It looks like a bitch to get in there

  7. #7
    Ws6Noob
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    Theres an actual video that you can download that will help you alot.
    "http://www.bfranker.badz28.com/headlightfix/index.htm"

    The video actually helps out alot.

    But i used a 10 mm socket and just a 10mm wrench pretty much for everything. The hard part is to reach some of the bolts- i mean there is little to no space at all to reach in. The raise/lower arm for the headlights is also a bitch to get off because its stuck on their pretty good. I used some wd40 to pry it off aswell.

    Once i actually got the whole unit out i stuck it inbetween a vicegrip and took some screwdrivers and slowly pryed it off since it was glued on their pretty solid. Getting it backtogether is alot easier then takeing it off though-atleast i thought.

    Overall it wasnt to bad, give yourself like 3-5 hours though- Good luck

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    I escaped DC
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    I've done this install, and you're right, it's a royal PITA. Not to mention, the epoxy sent with the kit didn't work worth a damn and I had to reseal the cover again. I can tell you, the thing I did that made this install 100% easier was to remove the entire headlight from the car, and it's easy to do. Once you have the headlight lever (arm) disconnected from the motor, you'll need a hex driver and I think 10 mm wrench. There's 2 hex bolts that hold the headlight to it's assembly, and once you get those off, the entire headlight just slips right out and you have easy access to all those bolts. It's well worth it if you have the right size hex driver on hand...I can see which size it was if anyone needs to know.

    Brass gears seem to be holding up fine, btw.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quil
    I've done this install, and you're right, it's a royal PITA. Not to mention, the epoxy sent with the kit didn't work worth a damn and I had to reseal the cover again. I can tell you, the thing I did that made this install 100% easier was to remove the entire headlight from the car, and it's easy to do. Once you have the headlight lever (arm) disconnected from the motor, you'll need a hex driver and I think 10 mm wrench. There's 2 hex bolts that hold the headlight to it's assembly, and once you get those off, the entire headlight just slips right out and you have easy access to all those bolts. It's well worth it if you have the right size hex driver on hand...I can see which size it was if anyone needs to know.

    Brass gears seem to be holding up fine, btw.

    Sine the epoxy didnt work, what did you use? 2morrow is the day I have to RE-FUCKING-DO this.

    Yeah, I took the headlight off too. And I believe there is one bolt that was still a bitch to get off. A bolt that you need a wrench on the back and one on the front.

    Id love to kill the bastard that came up with this bolt pattern.

  10. #10
    Ws6Noob
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    That the worst part about it all. The Double Wrench Bs. You need baby fingers to reach behind some of this crap.

    And btw i took the headlight off aswell, much easier.

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    I escaped DC
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    I used epoxy again, just some that I had already bought that seemed to be a little better quality. I wasn't positive it would hold, so I threaded a zip tie all the way around the thing after it was mounted and pull it as tight as I could. Maybe a little redneck, but I could care less, as long as the cover doesn't fall off the motor.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quil
    I used epoxy again, just some that I had already bought that seemed to be a little better quality. I wasn't positive it would hold, so I threaded a zip tie all the way around the thing after it was mounted and pull it as tight as I could. Maybe a little redneck, but I could care less, as long as the cover doesn't fall off the motor.

    Redneck or not, that sounds like a great idea! Why you ask? Read on..

    Like I said before, my BRASS gear ended up grinding after 2 months of installation. Well today I finally started to take every thing about and to my surprise, the cover that I epoxy-ed AND put in a vice overnight was GONE. Completely gone. So, I have to buy a new motor now. WHen when I put the gear in the new motor, I WILL zip tie it on.

    By the way, how the HELL did you get the 3rd bolt off the motor thats closest to the frame? That was the worst s.o.b. to unscrew I have ever dealt with.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, where can I find a motor at a decent price? I called AutoZone and they quoted me $65. I was like holy shit! Car dome was the brand. Then I called Discount, same brand, BUT it was $245 or something. Hmm... Both places didnt have it in stock.

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    I just checked on the Advance auto website and they have the Cardone motor for 63.99 plus a $20.00 core charge.

  15. #15
    greasy-chicken
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    Make sure you tighten the motor to the housing. If it is loose it will chew up your new brass gears. There is little black tabs that hold the motor onto the housing. You can use a punch and hammer to tighten them back up. Mine was loose which probably caused the plastic gear to explode in the first place.

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    Re: "grinding" headlight motor - again

    I'm having the same problem. What do you mean by turn the gear to prolong it? My headlights are also comming up when i turn of the park lights. Very annoying!!

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    I escaped DC
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    Re: "grinding" headlight motor - again

    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA
    By the way, how the HELL did you get the 3rd bolt off the motor thats closest to the frame? That was the worst s.o.b. to unscrew I have ever dealt with.
    Like I was saying before, take the entire headlight off the car. Otherwise, I don't see how anyone is able to reach that back bolt. It is worth it to go out and buy a set of hex drivers if for no other reason than for this project. It will literally cut your install time in half.

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    Rollo Tomassee AKIRA's Avatar
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    Re: "grinding" headlight motor - again

    Quote Originally Posted by Quil
    Like I was saying before, take the entire headlight off the car. Otherwise, I don't see how anyone is able to reach that back bolt. It is worth it to go out and buy a set of hex drivers if for no other reason than for this project. It will literally cut your install time in half.

    No no, my headlight was OUT. I am talking about the 3 bolts the hold the motor to the car. There are 2 in the front and one in the back. Its such a bitch to get to. Gotta hold the nut on one end with a wrench and turn the other side with a socket wrench. All this is done through a tiny gap. It SUCKS.

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    I escaped DC
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    Re: "grinding" headlight motor - again

    Quote Originally Posted by AKIRA
    No no, my headlight was OUT. I am talking about the 3 bolts the hold the motor to the car. There are 2 in the front and one in the back. Its such a bitch to get to. Gotta hold the nut on one end with a wrench and turn the other side with a socket wrench. All this is done through a tiny gap. It SUCKS.
    I see what you're saying now. It is a bit of a PITA.

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    Junior Member MSTZ TA's Avatar
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    01nhrafirebird - you can do a temporary fix by turning the plastic gear so that it uses a different portion of the gear. I've done this 3 times, so I think it's time to replace it. I still haven't gotten the brass gear, so I just manually put the lights up and they're up all the time. At least it gets rid of that embarrassing grinding noise. I was pretending it wasn't my car when I would walk away!!! :0)

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