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General Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals

This is a discussion on General Routine Maintenance / Service Intervals within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by Spaz shit... i change my fuel filter every 3rd oil change... ever cut one open??? nope but ...

  1. #21
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaz View Post
    shit... i change my fuel filter every 3rd oil change... ever cut one open???
    nope but I have seen alot of fuel filters last well past 100k without being changed and with no drivability problems. I think 30k is a reasonable interval.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    with the section on the rear axle, is that an easy change? still learning so bear with me. i believe mine needs the gasket changed. maybe i'm thinking of an entirely different part but i will send yall a picture and you can tell me the route to go.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Cutlass View Post
    nope but I have seen alot of fuel filters last well past 100k without being changed and with no drivability problems. I think 30k is a reasonable interval.
    When I got my z 34 it had just under 100k on the old GM filter. @ that time the car was 14-15 years old..lol

    The 01 Camaro filter lasted from 26k to ~75-80k-ish when it became clogged and my pump died..

    Was good for a nice AAA flatbed ride home..

    I'd say it's hit or miss.

    I also agree changing them slightly more often should be part of some sort of regular reutine on our f-bodies..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-30-2011 at 09:46 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smittro View Post
    When I got my z 34 it had just under 100k on the old GM filter. @ that time the car was 14-15 years old..lol

    The 01 Camaro filter lasted from 26k to ~75-80k-ish when it became clogged and my pump died..

    Was good for a nice AAA flatbed ride home..

    I'd say it's hit or miss.

    I also agree changing them slightly more often should be part of some sort of regular reutine on our f-bodies..
    Add 3-4 hours to do the pump the hard way..

    Cheap insurance imho..

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenro23 View Post
    with the section on the rear axle, is that an easy change? still learning so bear with me. i believe mine needs the gasket changed. maybe i'm thinking of an entirely different part but i will send yall a picture and you can tell me the route to go.
    Yes, to change the rear diff fluid you need to pull the cover off and replace the gasket.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    any special instructions i should know, or just pull off the cover and change the gasket?

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    ok so i understand how to do the job itself. now my question is, what exactly do i need to buy from the store? gasket, sealers, etc.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Buy a gasket and gear lube. Usually the gear lube bottle will have a little nipple on it so you can stick it in the fill hole and refill the diff. If not then look for something to pump the fluid in.
    Also you'll need something to scrap the gasket off the diff and diff cover

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by kenro23 View Post
    ok so i understand how to do the job itself. now my question is, what exactly do i need to buy from the store? gasket, sealers, etc.
    High temp permatex gasket spray is what I use on many things..

    There's also the brush on permatex that works well also..

    Apply to both sides of the gasket and let it stand for a minute (don't have to tho) if you want it extra sticky..

    I've used both for years, works good..
    Last edited by Smittro; 03-31-2011 at 09:25 PM.

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    Senior Member kenro23's Avatar
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    cool thanks guys

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    Senior Member wileyCoyote's Avatar
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    this is a good sticky, but does anyone else wonder why the hell the little manual (book) that came w/ the car has nowhere near the detail? i mean, in mine it never mentions changing fluid in a manual trans, never mentions fuel filter, never mentions chaning clutch fluid, ...what gives?

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    less maintenance sells cars. But we know better.

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    very good info. thanks for compiling it.

    ? whats the fuild capisty of the 10 bolt rear end?

    Thanks

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    Rear end= approx 1.75 qts

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    I thought it was right at one and 2/3 quarts because I usalley have 1/3 leftover Thanks Cutlass

    BTW off topic: Cutlass are you farminairl w/ Starcraft big aluimin boats.

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    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by qwik219d9 View Post
    BTW off topic: Cutlass are you farminairl w/ Starcraft big aluimin boats.
    Yes a little bit. You can PM me about it if you'd like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 35th-ANV-SS View Post
    The following is a recommended time interval / mileage maintenance document based on what the service manual states for our cars (3800 V6 / 5.7L V8 engine) and what we recommend based on experience.

    This is just a recommendation and was written to be used solely as a guideline. The age of a vehicle, driving habits, and mileage all play a role in routine maintenance.

    Cooling system:
    Coolant flush every 4 years / 100,000 miles

    Use a 50/50 mixture of clean, drinkable water and use only GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL, Havoline DEX-COOL coolant or other GM approved DEX-COOL.

    The service manual recommends AGAINST using a chemical flushing agent in our cooling systems. Some here have flushed their system with water and drop the block drains in order to get as much of the old coolant out as possible. Do not mix a standard “green” coolant with DEX-COOL as it has been known to create sludge in the cooling system. If switching from DEX-COOL to another brand, it is imperative that the cooling system, including the overflow tank and heater core, be thoroughly flushed of old coolant.

    Capacity is as follows:
    - 3800 V6 with manual transmission = 11.6 quarts
    - 3800 V6 with automatic transmission = 11.4 quarts
    - 5.7L V8 with manual transmission = 11.9 quarts
    - 5.7L V8 with automatic transmission = 11.8 quarts

    I made this thread some time ago if anyone is interested in learning more about how a cooling system works in more detail. Cooling Systems 101

    Hydraulic Brake System:
    Use Delco Supreme II Brake Fluid (GM Part number 12377967 or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid).

    Brake Fluid flush ever 2 years / 25,000 miles

    Hydraulic Clutch System:
    Use hydraulic clutch fluid (GM Part number 12345347 or equivalent DOT-3 brake fluid).

    Fluid Flush every year / 15,000 miles

    Flushing of each of the above systems may be accomplished by manually pumping the pedal and then holding down on the pedal as the bleeder is cracked open and closed again before the pedal bottoms out. In the alternative, a much simpler method is to utilize a Mity-Vac to vacuum bleed the system. Just be sure that adequate fluid remains in the reservoir during the flushing process so that no air is sucked into the system.

    For the Mity-Vac sticky, go here: How to bleed a clutch with a Mity Vac

    Manual Transmission:
    Use DEXRON - III Automatic Transmission Fluid.

    Capacity is as follows:
    - Five-speed = 3.4 quarts
    - Six speed = 4 quarts

    I created this thread some time ago if you would like to read further into how a manual transmission works. How a Manual Transmission Works...

    Change the transmission fluid if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions every 15,000 miles.
    - In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F or higher.
    - In hilly or mountainous terrain
    - When doing frequent trailer towing

    If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter every 50,000 miles.

    Automatic Transmission:
    Use DEXRON - III Automatic Transmission Fluid

    Capacity is as follows:
    - Drain and refill Overhaul = 5.0 quarts
    - 3800 V6 = 8.8 quarts
    - 5.7L V8 = 10.8 quarts

    Change the transmission fluid and filter if the vehicle is mainly driven under one or more of these conditions every 15,000 miles.
    - In heavy city traffic where the outside temperature regularly reaches 90°F or higher.
    - In hilly or mountainous terrain
    - When doing frequent trailer towing

    If you do not use your vehicle under any of these conditions, change the fluid and filter at least every 50,000 miles. Be sure to thoroughly clean the magnetic strip in the bottom of the transmission pan before reassembly.

    Rear Axle - Standard Differential
    Use SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part #12378261 or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115).

    Change every 30,000 miles

    Rear Axle - Limited-Slip Differential
    Use SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant (GM Part #12378261 or equivalent meeting GM Specification 9986115). With a complete drain and refill add 4 ounces of Limited-Slip Axle Lubricant Additive (GM Part #1052358 or equivalent). Even though the 2000 model year and later F-body limited-slip differentials are a gear type Torsen unit, the use of a limited-slip additive is still recommended.

    Change every 30,000 miles

    Engine Oil:
    Change the engine oil and filter as indicated by the GM Oil Life System (or every 12 months, whichever occurs first). Reset the system afterward. If the system is ever reset by accident, you must change your oil at 3,000 miles since your last oil change.

    Capacity is as follows:
    - 3800 V6 = 4.5 quarts
    - 5.7L V8 = 5.5 quarts

    Here is a great thread on what people are using: I'm a Oil Junkie - Page 2

    Tire Rotation:
    Every 6,000 - 7,500 miles. Basically you should rotate your tires every other oil change.

    Fuel Filter:
    3800 V6 = Part #G627
    5.7L V8 = Part #GF578

    Change every 30,000 miles.

    Air Filter:
    Change every 15,000 miles. This is an item that needs servicing based on what kind of road conditions you drive in. If you drive through a construction site daily, chances are you will need to check your air filter more regularly.

    Spark Plugs and Wires:
    Spark plugs and wires should be changed every 100,000 miles

    For tips on how to change them, see this thread: plugs and wires on ls1?

    Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV):
    Service every 100,000 miles

    Belt Inspection:
    Inspect belts regularly. Replace if necessary every 60,000 miles.

    Power Steering Fluid:
    Service every 50,000 miles
    GM Power Steering Fluid
    GM Part #1052884 - 1 pint
    GM Part #1050017 - 1 quart or equivalent

    Key Lock Cylinders:
    Lubricate at least once a year
    Multi-purpose Lubricant, Superlube - GM Part #12346241 or equivalent

    Owner Checks and Services:
    At each fill-up you should check the following fluid levels:
    - Engine Oil Level
    - Engine Coolant Level
    - Windshield Washer Fluid
    - Tire Inflation should be checked at least once a month. Recommended torque value for wheel nuts = 100 lb-ft.
    Where do we purchase those additives for the manual transmission and the rear end? Also would you recommend mobil1 royal purple amsoil or just the factory fluids thanks!

  19. #39
    Moderator Cutlass's Avatar
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    The posi additive can be purchased at any GM Dealership Parts department. If you search around you can also find it online. Mobil1 and Amsoil are both good. I use both.
    -------------------------------------
    Kooks 1 7/8" race headers, Kooks ORY, Borla catback, Nitto 555R, LS6 intake manifold, Shaner S3 ported stock throttle body, SLP lid, smooth bellows, JAAM Ram Air kit, Elite Engineering catch can, LS6 valley cover, EGR and AIR deleted, Frost tune, and Simpson Racing child car seat in the back. 13.2 @ 108MPH

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