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Fuel Pressure bleeding off

This is a discussion on Fuel Pressure bleeding off within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; you don't.....muffler has to come out. It's really not that big of a deal especially since it's been out once ...

  1. #41
    Veteran 0rion's Avatar
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    you don't.....muffler has to come out. It's really not that big of a deal especially since it's been out once already so all the nuts and bolts will be in good shape. Rear section of the exhaust has to come out, heat shield for the gas tank, panhard bar, take drive shaft loose from rear, and I *think* torque arm to get the rear low enough but it may just be the driveshaft to get it low enough....little fuzzy on that. Seems like I'm forgetting something else. When I did mine the whole rear was coming out so the little details I wasn't too concerned with. Maybe you'll get lucky and it'll fix itself. Lord knows I've been down that road a few times. Leave something broke long enough and it magically repairs itself. Maybe one of the access panel guys will chime in and tell you where to cut if you wanted to do it that way. If you do the panel just make sure you don't cut too deep because the lines going into the tank are right there. The other thing if you do the panel is at least do it right.......make a cover to go back on and either make a gasket for it or RTV the shit out of it so you don't get fumes in the car and paint your cuts so you don't get rust down the road although being in OK you guys don't have the problem with rust that we do. I'm personally not a fan of that method but I understand why people do it.

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    I posted pics of the cut somewhere on here. The cut is maybe 7" wide and 10" long, and starts about an inch in front of the rear roll where the floor pan drops off into the well. Keep the cut shallow as you can as the hoses and wiring does get close to the floor in a couple of spots.
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    My muffler is welded on. Not sure how my buddy got the tank out the first time... Probably a BFH and pry bar...
    I'm going to have to cut it from the top if I'm going to do it in my garage.

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    Ha, I've run accross a couple with the muffler welded on, and I fixed that problem.

    I first cut it off with a sazaw making a nice straight cut right where the I-pipe connects to the muffler. Pull the entire muffler out with tailpipes connected.

    When I get to the point of putting the muffler back on, I buy a couple of 3" 3-bolt collector flanges and slide those on, one over the I-pipe and the other toward the muffler. Use a couple of pole jacks to positition everything where I want it, and bolt the 2 halves of the flanges together and position that directly over the cut. Then tack weld both sides in about 3 spots.

    After that, remove the bolts, drop the muffler and I-pipe down for easy access and burn those babies in Now the entire rear muffler section simply bolts on like a header collector and can be removed in 5 minutes any time you need to And if you took your time to position everything nicely before you weld it, then it bolts on straight every time with no fussing or adjusting anything. The rubber hangers on the tailpipes do the rest.

    Frankly I prefer to do this trick on all of them I have now because even the slip joints are a real pain in the ass if they have been together for any length of time, and that goes especially for the ones that use smash clamps....ugh.
    Last edited by Firebirdjones; 05-06-2014 at 08:55 PM.

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    Speedy - are you looking for voltage or resistance when you tested the wires? Unless something has changed, I think GM fuel level senders work on a 0 to 90 ohm resistance signal.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Speedy - are you looking for voltage or resistance when you tested the wires? Unless something has changed, I think GM fuel level senders work on a 0 to 90 ohm resistance signal.
    yep...they have changed at least for our cars. 40-259
    Quote Originally Posted by Mean Green Z28 View Post
    Don't worry about understanding women. Women understand women, and they hate each other

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    Quote Originally Posted by spdecar View Post
    My muffler is welded on. Not sure how my buddy got the tank out the first time... Probably a BFH and pry bar...
    I'm going to have to cut it from the top if I'm going to do it in my garage.
    that is a trick......he may have been able to take that whole rear section out in one piece since it was on a lift. Don't think you could do that on stands though.

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    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    Speedy - are you looking for voltage or resistance when you tested the wires? Unless something has changed, I think GM fuel level senders work on a 0 to 90 ohm resistance signal.
    I was looking for ohms (resistance). I actually used my old one on the bench for reference. The old one works, new one doesn't....
    By the way Orion, it is the purple and black/white wire.

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    If you're not getting ohms to that harness most likely that's going to have to come out of the tank to see what's going on. Hopefully it's just a loose wire or something simple like that.

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    Yea, I think I have finally accepted that... I think I will wait awhile though, don't want it tore down in the spring, too many places to go right now. And like you said maybe it will heal itself...

    - - - Updated - - -

    Quote Originally Posted by pajeff02 View Post
    I posted pics of the cut somewhere on here. The cut is maybe 7" wide and 10" long, and starts about an inch in front of the rear roll where the floor pan drops off into the well. Keep the cut shallow as you can as the hoses and wiring does get close to the floor in a couple of spots.
    Where would I find these pics?

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    Fairly certain that both the April Train and What Did You do to Your Trans Am Today threads have pics posted. Sorry, I am on my phone this week or I would simply re-post them.

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    Here you go:



    Careful, as the wires for the pump and regulator were fairly close to the underbody. I carefully drilled holes at each corner, used my die grinder with a cut off wheel to open up some slots and then cut the panel out with an air nibbler. The cut is approximately 7-1/2" wide and 10-1/2" long. Only recommendation would be to nick it maybe 1/4" further back than what you see. It was a bit tight removing the lock ring.

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    Thanks. That will be very helpful when I get the motivation to dig into this...
    I assume you fabricated a new cover? How did you attach it?

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    I cut a piece of sheetmetal approximately 1/2" or so larger than the hole and am attaching it with 10 stainless sheet metal screws. I spaced the screws so that none of them will be in the vicinity of the hoses or wiring. The panel will be sealed to the floor with strip caulk as it doesn't compress a whole lot and will allow for easy removal without any risk of it ever drying out.

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    Thanks. Good luck with your regulator!

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    Just pulled the pump and swapped the regulator -- took about 15 minutes total going slow. I haven't tried it yet as I am going to replace the filter while the pressure is at zero.

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    Well... nuts. That didn't work as planned. The pressure does not bleed off as quickly, but I went from having 60 psi to only 52 psi.

    Stock regulator:



    Aftermarket regulator (the large circlip is not utilized):


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    Ended up being a regulator for a V6 car that runs 48-55 psi. Dealership just sold me one and it ended up being the same thing... finally just ordered one on the internet that should be here in a few days. Ugh.

    Here is the trap door panel. The screw spacing is intentional to keep the hoses and wire harness safe.


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    I feel your pain, I tried several V6 regulators off of old firebirds my buddy had, none worked like I needed them to. That/s why I ended bought a whole new assembly. (which will be coming out soon to have the sending unit swapped out with the original). Why not keep the regulator under the hood?... Would save everyone lots of headaches...

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