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First oil change - best oil to use?

This is a discussion on First oil change - best oil to use? within the General Help forums, part of the LSx Technical Help Section category; Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA And this will work best on a stock engine correct? Stock to modified. I use it ...

  1. #61
    Slow'er'Ass Mr. Luos's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    And this will work best on a stock engine correct?
    Stock to modified.

    I use it in my stroker.

  2. #62
    Member One_Bad_TA's Avatar
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    Alright P.P. it is lol. Thanks luos

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    well i guess its good to straighten that out. i have never really reseached oil like you obviously, but i suppose what i said was the common belief. i do work in a shop, so im not an idiot, though it may seem like it after that post. i guess it just goes to show that you can know alot about working on cars but there are always new things to learn.

    and the reason i like mobil is because we have a customer who has an older suburban with over 270,000 miles. the car is in excellant condition and has run mobil 1 since new. we have taken most of the motor apart and the internals look new. so i guess thats the reason why i think its a good oil. also i have never heard anything bad about mobil, always more good than bad.

    but i guess next time anyone has a question about anything we'll just ask you first.....
    I know your not stupid at all.....and a good butcher dont know shit about raising cattle I have more than a few "mechanics" I have "healed" as it relates to lubrication systems and oils.....no big deal....you are correct inasmuch as rumors go....Pennzoil conventional causes sludge....synthetics are thinner and cause leaks.....on and on...so we stick with Dyson Labs/Blackstone Labs and lots of UOA's.....this cuts through the shit and all the marketing crap ( Royal Purple gives you more RWHP )...glad your here on the board.....give em hell kid! Mobil1 is a good oil. Just way overpriced for what it is. I personoally have taken motors apart with over 200,000 miles on them and nothing but conventional oil in them from day one. Clean as a whistle.....reasonable Oil Change Intervals/working and maintained tune/PCV etc. and the engine is spotless.......

  4. #64
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    like i said its what summit said, and that still doesnt change the fact that summit racing is pulling it from their shelves. thats gotta tell you something, no?
    I think Royal Purple is the biggest rip off POS oil on the market....so you will get no argument from me.

  5. #65
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by One_Bad_TA View Post
    Currently I am running Mobil 1 5w 30. My question is for sarge...for the summer what weight oil should i get? P.P. 5w 30 or P.P. 10w 30. In the owners manual it says 5w 30 but as I've read your numerous oil threads I'm gunna go with you. And BTW I live in Ohio so it get about 80-90 in the summer.
    GM gonna recommend the lowest viscosity oil they can for CAFE. 10-30 has less viscosity enhancers so less shearing. I have folks running it in Canada year round....it is closest thing to a perfect viscosity for our motors there is. Year round.

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Last shot at the Timken Test.....the 4 ball wear test is more accurate.....here scroll down to the test.....
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx

  7. #67
    I use castrol syntec full synthetic 10w-30, only because thats what the previous owner used

  8. #68
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    I changed from PP 10w30 to PP5w30 and got a noticable drop in OP at hot idle. Sarge.. what would you recommend in PP that would be just a bit thicker than 10w30.. extreme heat weather???

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    You don't want thicker oil

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    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshieDoom View Post
    I changed from PP 10w30 to PP5w30 and got a noticable drop in OP at hot idle. Sarge.. what would you recommend in PP that would be just a bit thicker than 10w30.. extreme heat weather???
    What oil temps you running? 10-30 has a flashpoint of over 400f....If your getting over 280ish oil temps you need a oil cooler....thicker oil isnt the answer but managing your oil temp is......I ran the shit out of the GTO yesterday tuning with Allen Nelson...ambient temp was 100f....water temps were 210 and oil temps were 215.....and that was with numerous "WOT Punches" from 40-50mph for tuning the A/F.....I have an oil cooler....Oil temp guages are very cheap and easy to install.....I highly recommend one so you dont have to guess but you can watch it....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    Last shot at the Timken Test.....the 4 ball wear test is more accurate.....here scroll down to the test.....
    http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/sso.aspx
    Nice information, great to see PP up there with amsoil.

  12. #72
    Grand Imperial Wizard Sarge's Avatar
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    Yup....and that particular bottle of Amsoil will set you back $10 bucks ( I shit you not) and PP is what? $20 bucks for a 5qt jug? Oh yeah baby....Amsoil just confirmed what we already knew PP is the best value on the market right now.....

  13. #73
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    Good information here. Maybe this is beating a dead horse, but I would like to run the absolute best lubricants/oils in my car period. Sarge is def. the big cheese around here and I have a near stock LS1 Goat I'm about to switch out my tranny fluid, engine oil, and possibly the diff. fluid if it's necessary (I have 29k on an 04 Goat) I've ran Amsoil for the last oil change and about to order again unless there is something better. Sarge, on changing these fluids, what do you recommend? Should I stick with Amsoil stuff for all or is there a better route for any?

  14. #74

    Post Which oil is best? It’s up to you…

    Quote Originally Posted by TyeMug View Post
    Good information here. Maybe this is beating a dead horse, but I would like to run the absolute best lubricants/oils in my car period. Sarge is def. the big cheese around here and I have a near stock LS1 Goat I'm about to switch out my tranny fluid, engine oil, and possibly the diff. fluid if it's necessary (I have 29k on an 04 Goat) I've ran Amsoil for the last oil change and about to order again unless there is something better. Sarge, on changing these fluids, what do you recommend? Should I stick with Amsoil stuff for all or is there a better route for any?
    TyeMug,

    There are a lot of good options on the market for high end automotive lubricants. There’s also a lot of marketing hype and sales pitches to weed through as well; enough to give anyone a headache. I recommend doing your own research through multiple sources in order to formulate your own conclusion of what you feel is the best oil for you.

    Bob Is The Oil Guy.com is one forum you can go to check out differing opinions about different brands of lubricants. The site also has many Used Oil Analysis results posted so that you can see which lubricants actually perform well in real would conditions.

    Also, the link provided below is a no frills study of automotive gear lubes provided by Amsoil, Inc. I like this study because it shows that Amsoil does not necessarily beat out all competitors in all the categories of testing. Check out the final scoring and summary of the results and make your own determination of what is tops in your book.

    “A Study of Automotive Gear Lubes” - Link

    CompSyn

  15. #75
    Retired NOT tired SteveC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mpfranks View Post
    that people werent getting the "performance boosts" Royal purple said. and that the oil looked very gunked up after oil changes, not to mention the price. but thats just what the guy at summit racing said, ive never used it myself.
    I use Royal Purple 10W-30 in my 2001 Z28, and my 2004 Tahoe, I change the oil @ 10K, and in both cases, it comes out looking as good as the day I poured it in.

    In the case of my Z28, it quieted if not eliminated the piston slap at startup, Mobil 1 only made the piston slap louder.

    SteveC

  16. #76
    Senior Member Orcus79's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sarge View Post
    GM gonna recommend the lowest viscosity oil they can for CAFE. 10-30 has less viscosity enhancers so less shearing. I have folks running it in Canada year round....it is closest thing to a perfect viscosity for our motors there is. Year round.
    Here is some data from Canadain that sees -40 pretty regularly. 10w30 is a good oil in winter for good motors and if you have a block heater. How ever, that being said and from watching my pressure gauge, 5w30 get picked up alot faster. This is with conventional oil in my truck, the LS1 get parked over winter, but still started once a week or by mom to keep things lubricated. No block heater in that and it gets parked in a shelter out side with no heat.

    That runs 5w30 Q-state synthetic, cause of availability and where i get my filters from. Only one place carries WIX where I am from.

    My dad runs 10w30 Esso synthetic in his 92 suburban and 72 Chevelle (built to around 600Hp) Both run great even on negelected oil changes. With over 500K Km on the motor it still starts great and no smoke

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